Aaron65
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Posts posted by Aaron65
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My opinion is to forget the full restoration because then you won't want to drive it, and projects sometimes get stalled over time. Get it painted and drive the wheels off it!
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On a straight 8, it shouldn't matter much if they are pumped up or not when you go to adjust them. You can watch for zero lash because the rocker won't even come into contact with the valve until zero lash, and it is very obvious. Then, you turn it down 2 turns. Once you start it, they self adjust and it should run OK from there. Another thing to watch for on a straight 8--if you adjust them down too far, all the oil from the rocker shaft will not go down the pushrod, but out of the ball screw, because adjusted too far down the oil port is exposed. I watched this happen when I adjusted them running...one too many turns down and oil came shooting out onto my hand! Which brings up another point...adjust em running...you can hear the bad ones then...it's a pain, but may be worth a shot...
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Also remember that the lifters on these things are not oiled with much pressure, so a little dirt, or like I said machine oil, could really make them sticky. I really recommend Rislone...it has quieted many slightly sticky lifters for me...
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Hi Bill,
When I had mine rebuilt, I installed new lifters because the old ones were just shot. I even disassembled them to clean them with no results. When I was breaking them in (30 minutes at 1500-2000)...they clattered like they had no oil for at least 10 minutes. It was a nervous time, but they eventually shut up one by one. Also, if they were new, it's possible that the machining oil inside has dried up over the 10 years it has been sitting. Maybe try some Rislone...
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I can say unequivocally that my '65 Skylark is the best car I own...if you want a nice old car that you don't see everyday to drive around in, you can hardly do better.
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In keeping with the other thread...if anybody's headed to Meadowbrook this year...I'd appreciate if you could tell me where any pics are posted, like Photobucket or anything...I'll be missing it unavoidably for the first time since '96 and I'm going through withdrawal. It's my favorite car show. I won't be at a computer for at least a week, so no hurry...
Thanks!Aaron
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TG...I can't make it for the 1st time in 12 years...any chance you could post some pics or at least an entry list so I can feel bad about what I missed???
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It's on page 239, section 5-9 of the 1952 shop manual.
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Well, I finally checked out the shop manual, and it says that Series 40s have right handed threads, 50s and 70s left...case closed!
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Next week I'm dropping the '53's torque tube to seal up the torque ball and tube...I heard that one of the studs holding the lower rear springs on is reverse threaded...anybody know which one? Thanks if you can help...
Aaron
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Thanks for the replies! I will get those cables off when I get a chance...it may have to wait in line though...Fred...it most certainly has a leaking torque tube seal...I'm replacing the torque ball retainer though...I have one on order. I'll get that seal when I pull the torque tube back.
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Well...today my goal on the '53 was to grease the rear axle bearings. Found the following: previously broken pinion shaft bolt...had to drill and easy out it to get the axles out, parking brake struts were tucked away behind the shoes because the cables were frozen...only the sheathed cables from the brake backing are frozen, everything else is fine, and I had about a cup of tranny fluid in the torque tube when I drilled a hole to drain it, AND I had a leaking right rear wheel cylinder. The good news was I found a Chevy 12 bolt pinion shaft bolt that was nearly identical to assemble everything, but I still would like a parking brake...any tips OR any place to find those cables??? Sorry about the ramblings, but it was one of those days in the garage where not too much goes right.
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Now I just have to find one! The cheapest ebay one is 75 dollars...eek!
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Thank you for your replies!
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My parents bought a new '83 LeSabre Limited coupe in Rose Mauve when i was 6...307 eventually ended up getting replaced by the dealer after 7 (!) breakdowns...the cam bearing bosses were cast incorrectly and the distributor would break (somehow--I was 6, I'm guessing it chewed the dis. gear). Anyway, my grandpa bought it from my parents and my cousin inherited it and burned it to the ground pretending it was a 4X4. It would be a cooler car to me now than it was then...
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Hello,
If anyone has a Hollander manual, could you please look up any cooling fans that are interchangable (year, engine, etc.) with the following two?
1. 1952 Roadmaster
2. 1958 Cadillac with A/C
Thanks!
Aaron
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Thanks Joe...anyone have a Hollander manual? I'll post in another topic...
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That is an awesome tip...I've been thinking about upgrading the fan for the same reason you mention...Any ideas about what year Cadillac fans will work (part number wise) so I can start looking?
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Maybe get it in the Buick Bugle?
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Order a new oil pan gasket before you attempt this for sure...Don't pull it until your new one comes in.
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I cleaned up the valvetrain with kerosene (Would brake cleaner or carb cleaner be better?). Using wire, I cleaned the rocker arm oil passages to the push rod balls as best I can. I cannot seem to get the wire all the way to the rocker arm shaft. I there an easier way without disassembly?
No...you'll want to disassemble that thing. It stinks but if it's gunked up the rockers aren't getting oiled and they're getting scored. You'll want some pipe plugs for the ends (I forget the size--1/2" maybe?). I used a shotgun barrel cleaner for a 12 gauge to clean it out. I used small drills (by hand) to clean the gunk out of the rocker passages and I disassembled the adjustment screws because there was a lot of gunk in there too (mine has hydraulic lifters).
I want to drop the oil pan to clean out the gunk. I want to confirm that I don't need to lift the engine to remove the pan.
I pulled it on my '53. I did have to jack the car up a little and rotate the crank to make it clear, but it did. I did not have to remove any steering components. It will help to have a friend man the jack and wrench on the crank. The toughest part was keeping the gasket in the right spot the whole time.
Any advise would be appreciated!
Thanks, Frank
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Almost everything around here is 10%...therefore, almost all of my old cars heat soak and start a little hard hot. I've just accepted it.
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Let me preface this by saying I only drive Ford or GM cars (I like Chryslers too, but don't own one). GM and Ford have yet to get their quality in line. Some examples of my cars and my family's cars over the years--
2004 Impala...rear window defrost doesn't work...no voltage
2000 Century...a transmission that shifted so harshly that a Super Stock drag racer would be annoyed. (Very common problem with these from the research I did) Fuel gauge didn't work.
2000 Blazer...shot ball joint and idler arm at 80,000 miles (granted, not a huge deal, but far from isolated amonsgt Blazer owners) Fuel gauge didn't work.
1999 Century...power windows wouldn't work...bad ground connector in the junction block in the A-Pillar (I don't know how I found that)
1996 Regal...Engine died because of massive wire corrosion in the engine compartment fuse block
1994 T-Bird 3.8...head gaskets blown at 55,000 miles
Countless mid and full size 2000s GM cars with windshield wipers frozen in the up position driving around my town.
Many of these are not big problems, but problems a new car buyer should not expect when buying a car that's even 10 years old. GM and Ford may be scoring well in initial quality, but I think it's 5 and 10 years down the road where it gets bumpy. With that being said, I would still never drive a Toyota, Honda, or what have you...
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See this topic--it's a 263, but similar!
Thanks!
Valve adjustments on newly rebuild 263 Straight 8's
in Buick - General
Posted
Did you clean out the oil passages in the rocker shaft and rocker arms and ball studs when this engine was rebuilt? Pushrods clear? If no oil is getting to the lifters, it's blocked up somewhere if oil is indeed getting to the shaft...