Aaron65
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Posts posted by Aaron65
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Even though we are largely covered in salt, we are kind of known for cars, so I will humbly throw Michigan into the conversation of states with a bunch of antique cars.
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.025 is fine...what plugs are you using? I prefer AC. I'd avoid the Champion plugs they recommend in parts books; they're about 5 steps too hot. I use AC R45, though R45S works too.
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This is interesting Dave...they must have changed this in later years, maybe with the hydraulic lifters...mine feeds through an oil line into the front stand I believe...
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My '65 has 225/70R14s all the way around...looks pretty good.
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Maybe this new rocker shaft is not the same as the old one...Might be worth making sure all the oil holes in the shaft are in the same place...If the old one oiled normally and the new one doesn't, even after a cleaning, something else is wrong. Do you still have the old shaft to compare it to?
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I really like my Corvair! Might want to check out corvaircenter.com...good site for these cars. Beware, however, as 95% of those guys will tell you to part it out because it has too much rust. I'm a glutton for punishment, however, and like to fix stuff as a hobby. Unfortunately, I'm more underwater in mine than a sunken Amphicar! (Or Corvair) Oh well...
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#1...Is this a solid lifter car?
#2...Do you have the valves adjusted correctly?
#3...There are two types of adjuster ball studs on these rocker shafts...one for hydraulic lifters, one for solids...do you have the right one? The ball stud for hydraulics will have an extra oil passage to feed the lifters from above.
#4...After cleaning out the shaft, did you replace the plugs at the ends of the shaft?
#5...When cleaning out the shaft, did you also take all the rocker arms and ball studs off and clean out the crud from the oil holes? They will be completely packed with scum if you didn't...
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The brake pedal will drop when you put the car in gear on any car with drum brakes, so that's normal. I didn't go through the whole thread, but are you sure that every brake is adjusted so that you can hear the shoes just rubbing the drum as you spin the wheel? I had one that I forgot to adjust up once and it ruined my pedal. Even when they're working well, it seems like the pedal travel on old Buicks isn't like newer cars...mine has more pedal travel than my 60s cars, and I've been through the whole system too.
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Have you ever seen a Packard Darrin parked next to a Continental? I'll be generous and say it's a push. However, the first time the two cars go up a hill side by side you'll find one has a bit more power.
Yes, I've seen that cool Darrin sedan too...my opinion still stands...and the Continental could lose a drag race to a Model T and it wouldn't make any difference to me...
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Styling-wise...1940/1 Lincoln Continental, hands down (IMO). Nothing else comes close...
However, mechanically, maybe not so much. For familiarity's sake, I'll take a 1941 Buick Limited as best overall vehicle.
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I believe (I had mine all apart 4 years ago) that oil just squirts out the top of the rocker toward the valve...It's generally not a ton of oil, just enough to hit the valve...
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So cool...keep that thing away from the hot rod guys!!!
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I finally gave in and did it. I cut the gaskets and used just the intake gaskets. I had the machine shop cut the intake manifold a bit more so I could run the gasket, and I had them open up the bolt holes in the valve body and intake so I had a little more adjustment between the two manifolds. I used High Temp RTV on all of the gaskets between the valve body and manifolds. Graphite and oil between the exhaust manifold and head... It's pretty quiet now, but I don't have my hopes up. I really wish they would have split the manifold from the factory...I really think it's just too long of a manifold...warps too easily, moves around too much.
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Paint it the color you like...if you don't like black cars, why would you paint it that color?
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You have no idea how jealous I am right now. Deals generally don't happen to me. Nice score!
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Nice car!!! Obviously, one of my favorites...
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Even if the timing chain were stretched there would be spark...it would have to be broken for there to be no spark. Start working backward. No spark at the plugs? OK...No spark from the coil? The neutral safety switch would keep it from cranking. Like mentioned above, I'd check for voltage at the + terminal of the coil and see if you're getting battery voltage there.
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I think I personally would leave them. Now that the front end is apart, it will be fairly easy to get it back apart to replace the kingpins once (if) they become worn. To me, "we'll give them a shot" is not the most positive recommendation.
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Thanks to advice from this site, I found that a Chevy 12 bolt part is a direct interchange. That's what I did with mine...
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I am the king of buying too high, dumping good money after bad, and then never selling anything. If you like it, roll with it man. If I added the cost I had in my 4 old cars up, I could probably buy a new Corvette and an Aveo to commute in.
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I think the comments here are on the money. If you're selling it, you won't make the money back from repairing it. Let the new owner make his/her own decision. On the other hand, if you're driving it to keep, do what you can afford and/or are happy with.
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See my current adventures in the "What did you do to your classic today?" thread...
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I continued my new clutch, rebuild transmission and differential, replace bellhousing/crankshaft seal, find out the starter's about ready to go out, replace all engine/transmission mounts ordeal on my Corvair. Still freezing out, but the salamander takes the chill off...
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Now that you mention it, there's a lot of talk that GL-5 gear oil (which is what is usually sold) is not the best for synchronizers. If you can find some GL-4 somewhere, it may help. I bring this up at the risk of starting a zinc/non-zinc type oil riot.
Brought the '56 to college with me (overheating?)...
in Buick - Post War
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Almost certainly your radiator is still plugged up. You'll need to have it professionally cleaned out, which kind of stinks if you're a college student. Just flushing it with the hose will never unplug those radiator passages. (My '53 had the exact same problem when I bought it)