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Posts posted by Aaron65
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Thanks Pete...I got the backglass molding off, the one that unscrews from the trunk. I don't see anything about the quarter molding in the shop manual, so thanks for looking at that molding when you get a chance!
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I grew up with the cars of the 80s and early 90s...my family had an '83 LeSabre Limited coupe, and my grandpa had a '77 LeSabre Custom coupe, but I never was much into them. Living near Sloan Museum in Flint, MI, however, I remember the smell of late 40s/early 50s Buicks. I don't know if it was the old interiors or the engines or what, but I never forgot it, and I was subconsciously hooked...now look what I drive! It smells just like I remember.
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I noticed absolutely no change in oil pressure between 10W30, 15W40, and straight 30W oil. The only difference I noticed was that the engine turned over harder when cold with straight 30W. Buick recommended 20W when new, but that's only because multi-weights didn't exist. As soon as they did--Buick recommended them. 10W30 is recommended in my '65 Skylark's owner's manual.
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Well, I'm getting my '53 repainted this winter, and I'm considering getting the front bumper and some knick-knacks rechromed if I can afford it. It's probably been discussed before, but does anybody have a good experience to share? I'm looking for durable driver quality, keeping in mind that I'm a 32 year old high school teacher without a bottomless bank account. Thanks!
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Anybody know how to remove the stainless trim beneath the quarter windows on a '53 Special Hardtop? All the other trim is off or nearly off. I'm getting this thing repainted in February. Thanks!
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Just an FYI: The correct tool is Lisle Tool #35200. It's less than six dollars through amazon.com of all places...works like a charm.
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I have a Hobart Handler 140 with gas hookup and it's great. I bought it from Northern Tool online and got free shipping...
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Hmmmmm. I'll have to reexamine the tool I use (it's a standard window crank removal tool). The last time I had the door panel off it wouldn't work, and I'm not the kind of guy not to try that tool in every imaginable way. I'll check it out again, but I remember the slot in the tool used to remove the clip as being too large. If it doesn't work I'll double up a coat hanger to use as a pair of pliers. Thanks all...
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Nope...some will come out, so have a catch can ready, but you won't drain the tank or anything. Also, don't put your trouble light down by the pump when you do this! A hot bulb and gas makes a nice little fire--trust me--I found out the hard way...
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Oops...I just noticed that you are at 4 degrees BTDC...could you have a severe carbon issue? It might be worth running some Seafoam through the tank or something...Make sure to check the other suggestions I made too.
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That engine should never knock...I have my 53 263's ignition way advanced over factory and I run 87 octane--never a ping, ever. Premium back then was way lower octane than premium today. My understanding is that octane didn't really get up in the 90-100 range until the '60s. 7.2:1 compression should run on pond water. You need to figure out what's wrong with the car. Check your ignition timing. Make sure the mechanical advance is not frozen up or sticking in your distributor, same with vacuum advance. What type of spark plugs are you running? I run AC 45S in mine. Something is making that thing ping, because it shouldn't. Good luck--let us know what you find.
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I just pull the wires from the carb switch to jump the car...just in case you haven't already tried that...
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Wondering what you guys use to easily remove the window crank from your '53ish era Buicks. The standard removal tool isn't the right size, and the shop manual shows a special set of pliers that I obviously don't have...any good ideas? I need to pull them all.
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That is my favorite car of all time. I wish I could afford one! You are a lucky man. IMO, DON'T tear it down for a full resto...you'll never drive and enjoy it afterward, plus it would cost a fortune! Good luck with whatever you decide...let me know if you want to sell it!
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I never did find a definitive answer...I even saw a picture of an original '53 without that sticker. I put mine on the back passenger side of my valve cover.
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Have you checked to make sure that all the bolts holding the front cover of the converter on are torqued to 25 ft./lbs? I had a few loose ones that caused a massive leak...tightening them turned it into a manageable drip...just right for a Dynaflow.
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Ugh...my wife and I developed strong calf muscles from the times we had to push my '53...
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That's what mine has, Pete...looks correct to me.
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I'll second that...those weird bolts would need some kind of a homemade tool to get out. I just pulled the hinges from the cowl and left it all as an assembly.
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Hmmmmm. Looks like I have a limo fan. Seems to work well. I feel bad for my water pump bearing...that thing's probably twice the weight of the old one! Thanks for the reply, Joe.
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Thanks Rusty, I must have the exact same fan as you--mine has 7 blades though...yours is 6? Grandpa, I looked for one of those Roadie fans but couldn't find one, so I went with the Caddy!
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Well, I installed a '59 Cadillac AC fan, and it works great! It is pretty close to the radiator, about 5/8 inch away...Joe and Rusty, does that jibe with your experience?
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It's important to note that Chevy V8s were not used in other GM products until the mid 1970s, so 60s Oldsmobile and Buicks used engines produced by their respective divisions (excluding 6 cylinders).
Restorers--window felts?
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Anybody recommend a source for window felts for my '53 Special? As always, much obliged!