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Posts posted by Aaron65

  1. I think the media is somewhat responsible for the problems with the Big 3. Every mainstream auto mag preaches about how great Toyota and Honda are, and many people don't give the American cars a chance! The 3800 is a great engine that gets 30 MPG on the highway!

  2. Oh, I should have been more clear...I had to pull the head to replace all the valves, and I had to reset them. They're all quiet but one (and that one is a faint tap which could be a weak lifter). I tighten them to the point where I feel resistance at the screw...if I go any farther, it pushes some valves open...I was wondering if I was doing something wrong...

  3. Now that the '53s put away for the winter, what's the deal with the valves on these things? If I adjust them per the shop manual, they're held open. It seems like there's a 16th of a turn between noisy and too tight. I've got it where it's quiet and running well...they just seem touchier than I'm used to on other cars with adjustable valvetrains. Any insight, comments, etc?


  4. I don't know why, but I keep checking to see how much it's up to. That thing's a wreck but it's still such a neat looking car! But it's going to cost probably 100,000 to restore at least! All that steel, chrome, and where are the wire wheels? Then the interior, mechanicals, etc. Yikes!

  5. 50 bucks seems OK for a temp gauge I guess...not too many other options! I got a little nervous when my radiator cap went bad and was blowing antifreeze from around the seal! I'll look for that guy in Hemmings...thanks for the heads up!

  6. Hello,

    I disconnected the tube from the temp gauge at the cylinder head (right rear) on my 263. I'm getting the feeling I broke it...it's supposedly not electrical, and the gauge doesn't work anymore, and it did before. Any ideas?


  7. Hey all,

    I'm new here and own a '65 Skylark 300 4 barrel and a '53 Special 263...

    Just got my shop manual 3 weeks after installing my cylinder head on my '53 263. I was using a Chilton manual from the library. Anyway, the shop manual mentions that the head bolts on the driver's side enter the water jacket and some sealer should be used. The Chilton manual didn't mention that, and I just oiled all the old head bolts and fired away. My gut tells me this shouldn't be a problem; they didn't have anything on them when they came out...somebody back me up, because I don't want to pull the head again and dump all that antifreeze into the motor for no reason. Thanks! Oh, it doesn't sound right to me, but could I pull one at a time, seal them and retorque?


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