48Super

Hello Phil, The window and seat cylinders in your Buick each have a solenoid valve which must open whenever the cylinder is operated in either direction. When you raise the window, the pump runs AND the solenoid valve opens to allow fluid into the cylinder. When the window is lowered, the solenoid opens and fluid is forced out of the cylinder by the the return spring which pushes the piston down. Did you recently switch to a different fluid other than brake fluid? It may have caused the seals to swell and leak. A good source for replacement cylinders and pump parts is Convertible Tops and Power Window Parts from 1946 - Hydro-E-Lectric . If you are going to continue troubleshooting your hydraulic system, make sure the fluid level is OK and fully charge the battery (so the pump runs at full power). Was your system working correctly before the one window started acting up? If you have to replace all the cylinders, expect to spend some $$$. These systems are not that hard to deal with, you just really need have a good basic understanding of how they work.

Tom, I want to pass along some information that may be helpful for solving the hydraulic system problem in your '47 convertible. First of all, the very best pump repair information I've come across was in the early 50's MOTORS auto repair manuals. The section on Automatic Window Lifts gives you a great explanation on how the system works as well as instructions on pump disassembly. If you can purchase or borrow one of these, it will really help. The pumps can be tricky but not extremely difficult to work on. Many of the parts that can wear and give you trouble are available thru Hydro-E-Lectric. The pump should develop around 250psi and you will need some special "inverted flare" fittings to tee into the system with a guage. The fittings are the same as those commonly used on brake lines. Another thing to keep in mind while troubleshooting is when you operate a switch to close the window two things happen: 1. The pump is powered up. 2. An electrically operated solenoid valve at the cylinder opens to allow the pressurized fluid to enter the cylinder and raise the window against the spring tension. When you open the window one thing happens: 1. The solenoid valve opens and the spring tension pulls the cylinder piston down forcing the oil out and back to the reservoir. I hope this is of some help to you. Feel free to contact me if you have other questions. Mike

Matt, I have a nearly complete original interior from a '48 56C. I saved all the original pieces after I put in a Hampton Coach interior when I restored my car some years back. I have the all the door panels, rear seating area panels and top well lining panels. I would be happy to loan them to you if you're interested. I'm located near York, PA. Good luck with your project. Mike Lawson

I need to get nearly a full set of the special retaining clips used on the "Horseshoe" side moldings on my '64. Does anyone have some used ones for sale or know of a reasonably priced source for these? I can't bring myself to pay $2.95/ea for these parts from OPGI. Thanks for your help. Mike Lawson

I'm considering purchasing some heavy duty garage floor mats made by G-Floor. Garage Floor Protection And Covering Mats - Better Life Technology, LLC This product is not cheap and I'd like to hear from anyone who has already installed these mats or other similar product. I use my garage for work space as well as storage space so I want something that will hold up to a floor jack and other abuses. The mats are available in a variety of textures including diamond tread and "coin" pattern which I really like. Thanks for your assistance.

Hello Phil, I believe that there were no rollers on the window guide you have. I checked my parts book and it appears that Buick used pretty much the same hydraulic window mechanism from 1946-1952. I had my '48 convertible all apart when I restored it and I know for sure there were no rollers on the guides. I cannot remember exactly how the guides/washers were positioned in the channel but you can probably determine that from the wear patterns on the washer surfaces. Hope this helps. Mike Lawson

I checked the pictures in my parts book and found the answer to your question. The "ribbed" version of the top bar is correct for 1946. The "smooth" version of the top bar is correct for 1942. The seller of the "smooth" one has his part misidentified. Hope this solves the mystery for you.

Harry, Here is what I did when I restored my '48 56-C some years back: 1. Drill out or grind off the rivets so the tacking strip retaining channel can be removed from the car. 2. Carefully cut a series of notches in the top flange of the channel so that the flange can be bent up to allow the old tacking strip material to be removed. 3. Glass beaded the channel to remove old paint/rust and repainted with rust-inhibiting paint. 4. Installed attaching screws in the channel to replace the original rivets. 5. Installed new tacking strip. Short lengths can be shaped and cut to fit the curved sections of the channel. If I recall, two types of tacking strips are available. The dense, layered cardboard type similar to original or plastic strip should both be available from upholstery supply vendors. If you can't find the correct size tack strip, you could probably make it from several layers of door panel cardboard glued together. 6. After the strips are installed, fold the flanges back over to lock the strips in place and secure the channel to the car with nuts on the inside. I did this almost 20 years ago and it has held up great. Hope this helps. Mike Lawson

Tom, There are four hydraulic hoses in a '47 Buick convertible. There is a hose between each door and the cowl and two hoses at the pump.The seat cylinder is connected with all hard tubing. The pump is located on the left side of the firewall under the fender. If you look down in that area, you'll see the hoses connecting to tubing coming out of the firewall. The hoses have inverted-flare fitting ends (like brake line fittings). A good hydraulic shop should be able to make workable replacements. With the door hoses, it is important that end fittings are small enough to fit through the rubber conduit. If the conduit is damaged, you can get replacements from Steele Rubber Parts. Hope this helps. Mike Lawson

Matt, I'm glad to hear you were able to remove the trim moldings without damaging them. Sounds like you are making good progress on the car. When I restored my '48 convertible, I installed a complete new interior from Hampton Coach. It fit great and looks great. I saved all the original pieces and panels for future reference. I would be happy to loan you these parts for patterns. I know the trim on the panels is different on a '47 than on a '48 but the sizes of the panels would be identical. Let me know if you are interested, I'm located just south of York, PA. Mike Lawson

Matt, I can give you pretty good instructions on how to remove the moldings at the rear of the convertible top on your '47. I made detailed sketches of the attaching hardware when I restored my '48 Super back in 1993. The moldings are held on by a combination of thin sheetmetal channels and molding clips. There are 3 channels, one located behind each door opening an one centered in the rear. In between the side and rear channels, there are two molding clips on each side. The channels are long pieces that have a little flange on both sides that the molding "snaps" down onto. The retaining nuts for the clips are accessible through holes in the inner body sheetmetal. If you look in the top well at the curved area where the sides meet the rear, you should see these openings. The moldings can be released from the channels by carefully prying up with a putty knife to release it and then slide the putty knife along the molding channel to free it the rest of the way. If you are not clear on this or have other questions, please don't hesitate to contact me. These moldings are hard to come by and you don't want to damage them. I hope this helps. Mike Lawson

I have a whole box of NORS rocker molding clips that fit a 1940 Buick. These are made of formed wire, about 1" square with a arrow-shaped prong which would fit into a hole in the rocker panel. If these are what you need, I'll send you enough to do the whole job, for free. I've had these sitting around for about 30 years and I would like to see someone use them.

According to my parts book, the seat tracks are the same only for 1946-1948 Super and Roadmaster convertibles.

I have a 1948 Super and I pretty much agree with what has already been said here although I would like to make one correction. I believe that the oil filter top was not originally orange on the this engine. Attached are pictures of an unrestored 1950 Buick engine. They clearly show an all blue oil filter with a white decal. I've also seen 1949 engines like this so I think it is probably correct for 1948 as well. The orange filter top is definitely correct for slightly later 1950's models.

Matt, That looks like quite a project you have there. It will be worth the effort as it will be a great car when finished. I restored a '48 Super some years back and I've gotten a lot of enjoyment out of it. Feel free to contact me if you need parts or advice, I'm in York, PA. Mike Lawson

Tom, They are available from Original Parts Group. Part number is KR01009, cost is $6.95/ea. Hope this helps. Mike Lawson

Jim, Thanks for the lead. I already have a set of NOS Guide fog lights, I just need the correct brackets now. Mike Lawson

I'm looking for a set of Guide fog light brackets as shown in the picture below. They are for a 1948 Buick but I believe the sames ones were used by other GM models as well. Thanks for your help.

I'm looking for a set of Guide fog light brackets as shown in the picture below. They are for a 1948 Buick but I believe other GM models may have used them as well. Thanks for your help.

Phil, Based on my experience, you should be OK using ATF fluid. About 20 years ago, I rebuilt the Hydro-Lectric system on a friends '54 Skylark and filled it with ATF. It is still working fine. Back in 1993, I rebuilt my '48 convertible's system and used light hydraulic oil, it also is working fine. About the only difference you may see is that the system works a little slower when it is cold out. This should not be an issue as we mostly drive our cars during the warmer months. One thing you absolutely do not want to use in these systems is silicone brake fluid. It does not have the lubricating properties needed for the pump. I found this out the hard way.... Hope this helps. Mike Lawson

Don, The patterns will go out in the mail tomorrow. Let me know if you need anything else. Mike

Don, I made the patterns. I found a old roll of paint masking paper which worked out perfectly. Let me know where to send them. Mike

Don, Here are some answers to your questions: The attached picture shows the finished trunk in my car. The cardboard panels (there are 3 of them) do have piping sewn around the edges. The two side panels need to be carefully formed into the correct shape once they are cut from the flat sheet. The panel that covers the rear of the convertible top well attaches with several trim head screws. The side panel just sort of slid in place and a re retained at the bottom by small tabs that extend up from the trunk floor. The original material in my car looked like some kind of burlap (I saved some for future comparison) but many cars seem to use the chain-link pattern material available through the Buick parts vendors. The trunk floor piece I made by attaching the fabric to a sheet of tarpaper and sewing around the edges. Same thing for the piece under the top well. The board that the spare sits on is also covered with the material. Give me some time to find paper large enough to make the tracings on and I will get the patterns for you. Let me know if you need more clarification. Regards, Mike Lawson

Don, Let me know if you still need the trunk liner patterns. I have a 1948 Super Convertible and I could make tracings of the these parts for you. Mike Lawson

Hello Paul, I could use the following '64 Riviera parts: Chrome piece around gear selector Rear ashtray/courtesy light housing Turn signal housing (chrome piece below steering wheel) Windshield wiper escutcheons Driver's side vent window frame (diecast piece) Lower turn signal extensions (diecast piece on either side of lower bumper) I'm looking for parts which have nice chrome and would not need to be replated. Thanks for your assistance, Mike Lawson