Ovalrace25

Still looking for 57 T-Bird right side sheetmetal. Made some calls to the guys out here on the west coast. Have not struck gold yet.. Have Not even struck rusty metal. Anyone got parts? Thanks! Rod Dahlgren:confused: 707 287 7506

Classic Exhaust, Geneva Oh. He has made several sets for many of my cars. 440-466-5460

Everyone needs to be aware of what happens to fuel pumps AND Pressure Regulators when exposed to the gas we are using these days.... Fuel leaks are common, failure is the word.. Check your system and be totaly sure you have pumps, regulators, hoses that will not fail.

Anyone know what fan belt they are using on the Lincoln?

Yes, I know there are few that have done this. And they are probably no longer with us. To bad.

Ben, What is the status now on this? Thanks!

There is one here in Napa, Ca. A project, but not bad at all. Yes For Sale.

I am missing some parts. This car was taken apart long ago and moved a few times. Now we are trying to put it back together. Engine is missing some small parts such as oil lines, distributor/oil pump drive parts. Cam bearings and rear cap, cam followers and lifters and more. This is just a start. I still have to see how much of the car is missing!

Great! Got it! Thanks!

OK, So Here I am showing my lack of navigating the website WHERE can I find the class that my car/s will be in for an AACA event? Do I NEED to go find my printed guide? Or can I find it online? When I fill out the online registration, the class list comes up but only the NUMBERS... NO description..... Us poor folks out in the boonies where we dont have shows but once every 4-5 years can remember what class to use and guys like me dont have the same cars to bring as back when we last did this.

The 65 had the Nailhead engine.. The 455 and 430 are the new style engine that came out in 66. Better to stick with the nailhead. Changing to the later engine is NOT exactly a bolt-in.

Yes, I agree 25-26. Notice the downdraft carb conversion? Speedster project for sure.

Nice Story to add to the history of the Cadillac. Thank You!

I posted a group of photos of Buddy Walton's Cadillac in the Gallery. I have a water color on my office wall that was done when it was Buddy's 2-tone green color.

The car is now in Sonoma, Ca. Certainly would like to know more about where the car has been. Just a few photos are on my website Rods of the Valley: Welcome and I use one here on my signature box.

Ed, yes, I agree that the last mumber is the year. But narrowing it down to 1979 1989 1999 is what I hoped to do.. The Cadillac is a 76, but only the spare has a code ending with a 6... Kind of strange that the car got new shoes in 79. Records show the car was sold a little later. Wonder if it sat and the orignals got flat spots... Could be the answer right there on that one...

Buddy Waltons 29 Cadillac roadster is still parked next to a 1929 Packard 640. I restored both cars.

This is where it really pays to know who has the local machine shop in his garage. Some fabrication/machinework to allow the use of available bearings is what needs to be done. BUT, I must agree, we need to know which bearing we are dealing with.....

Just cleaning up my "Barn Find" and am trying to figure out how long these cars were in there and how long since they got new shoes.. This example is a 1972 Mustang Mach 1 with BF Goodrich radial T/A's. The odometer reads 38000 miles. The car LOOKS like maybe that is true miles. We think the cars have been in storage for 12 years...... All were part of a private collection of cars seldom driven..... So, low miles are possible. Here are the BF Goodrich codes: BER9 XM1086 The next car is a 1976 Eldorado. There were letters and documnets in the glovebox that back up the 26,000 miles on the odometer. Uniroyal LR78 - 15 tires. The date codes of these tires are AJV4 DHO79 YES, I have removed and replaced ALL the tires.

Very nice photos! I was looking to see if there were some pictures of cars that I sent to Turku in the past few years. It is a very small world now and that makes it so many car-guys are able to enjoy these great olds cars!

True, the battery is just a load.. Yes, field windings are very suspect... I leave all that up to the rebuilder, but time for me to do my own checking. Who may have the correct regulator for the CD-800 series unit? Part number 20100

WOW, Lots of work to make the plate.. Why not just bump the key until you get the pump to come up flush to the mounting base? Even if you dont have it quite all the way down, the pump will be close enough to start the bolts.. Rod Dahlgren

There is a wider range of guys the actually WORK on a wide variety of cars here.. Also thought that since the basics af a 3-brush are the same, there could be more input here.. True the third brush controls amps. I am not sure how the Optima may change the scenario, but also thought the readers could have some ideas on how that plays into the problem. Since the rebuilder had the generator AND the attached regulator, I am not sure what is going on here... Packard generator is chain driven through the timing case, so there is no loose belt to consider. Since ONE battery change gave me a change in readings, I suppose it would not hurt to try another battery...

Thanks! All new wiring. Re-checked battery cables, resistance and volt-drop. Third brush adjested, re-adjusted, again and again... Tried with regulator cover on and off... It does make a difference with the cover off by almost 1/4 volts.

The Packard generator is a third brush type. I was unhappy with voltage output at 6 volts max. with the 3<SUP>rd</SUP> brush cranked up all the way. Just for a little cross check, I tried another battery. I am using Optima 6 volt batteries. With a battery change, the voltage came up to just over 6 volts. The shop manual says 7 volts at 20 MPH is what I should have, but that is impossible to get. So I had the generator and regulator checked out by the shop that lots of the guys use out here and he said he checked and adjusted it and it was good to go… Back on the car, it was just barely making 6 volts. So I tried cranking up the third brush and found it was still in the full position. All these numbers are with throttle cranked up to a high enough RPM so the cut-out relay closes. I am not sure what that RPM is, but I think it is far higher than in should be.. My other cars charge at much lower RPM…. I have constant low battery with this going on… As much low RPM operation as these cars get, the battery NEVER gets up to full charge and certainly can not be driven with lights on. Help!