tbirdman

I'm considering bending new fuel and brake lines before I ship them off to be chrome plated. They look like copper, but I assume to redo them in steel would be fine. Am I correct? Should they be chrome plated? Also does anyone know where to get the end fittings for the fuel and oil lines? I'm also assuming that the fittings should be plated also.

I have the detailing manual from PI, but it doesn't cover this stuff as far as I can see. Need some pointers. 1. bijur lines 2. air cleaner front metal strap 3. intake on front of crankcase. Looks aluminum

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packard32</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Black magic markers won't help???? ...B </div></div> I never thought of that, however water pump and belts are off. Did not have to touch the vibration dampner.

Can you use as much as you want. The more current, the more you can plate. I bought a 3A voltage/current adjustable supply at Frys for $69. Caswell was selling the identical unit for $103. It should be fine for plating small batches at a time.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigKev54Clipper</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm just curious if anyone has every tried those zinc plating kits that Eastwood sells? or the blacking solution system? I just wonder if they give good results. </div></div> Yesterday, I bought the latest Caswell copy cad zinc kit. Probably cheaper and easier to send out, but this way easier to keep track of everything...plate as I go.

Thanks for the help. The 32 has two thin belts. The radiator is out of the car so that's not an issue. I wanted for concourse purposes to replace the belts with something that doesn't say "carquest". FYI, I do have some used 32 Packard carquest fan belts for sale.

Oh, so I guess I just need to wash it it, repaint it and then reinstall. How quaint

OK the shop manual says to unbolt the water pump and turn it to release the fan belt. Does that apply to a 32? It also says to remove the vibration dampner. All I want to do is to remove the fan belt and water pump. Thanks.

OK I have the air cleaner off the car, but I see no way I can open it up to get the the air cleaner element.

Dave I don't think it will work as the 30s deluxe 8 is round and the 32 is a thin long rectangle.

I looked at the parts book. It didn't make sense as the part number that ID the holder was not listed under a 903 or 902. I suspect the holder may be different between the two as 1) each plug wire has about a 1" difference and 2) the holder is held in place by the head bolts which I assume the spacing might be different between the two.

Did you try Henry Yeska?

Don't know. I have to check the parts book. I believe the length should be around 24". Mine is around 3" too short where someone chopped off one end. It's presentable, but a sharp Packard eye will detect the shorten part. Also looking for a 32 air cleaner decal?

Looking to buy spark plug wiring loom holder which is bolted to the top of the block and holds the spark plug wires.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mrpushbutton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">AKA-"rice burner", but that too may be politically incorrect. </div></div> My girlfirend trying to be cool at a show, pointed out a car and said, look at that, there's a "rice cooker". She's Asian so she probably never burnt her rice

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 58Mustang</div><div class="ubbcode-body">"Jap" car???? What an ugly word. The war ended 60 years ago. If cars were built in Africa would you call them "N" cars?? And, please don't say it is an abbreviation. It is not, it is a perjoritive term and has no place in today's society. </div></div> On that thought MR PC, please remove "Whizzer" from your posts. That offends me. Please watch who you throw rocks at because in your previous posts... you used the word "sissy". That sounds like a perjoritive term. Hmmm, who does that offend? You said you owned an Indian-would does that offend? You asked someone if they were a "savant". Who does that offend?

Unfortunately my fiends who are ding cars right noiw have no interest in doing things right. I do have a bead blaster so that's not a problem. Also I have a copy cad kit from Carswell which is really zinc plating. Though when it's all said it done, it's much eazier just to go to a plater.

Any recomendations for cad plating for all the nuts and bolts in the engine compartment?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Replacing a Harness Is a 'Major' Job, but it sounds like you really Need one, and if you take your time and be patient with the rusty screws, it can be done. Web Link: http://riwire.com/ </div></div> I used Potomac Packard who claims to have al the original wiring blue prints. I think the the wiring harness for a 29 would be very easy and is not a major job. Figure cost in the $500-800 range.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Restorer32</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Replace the wiring harness or increase your insurance. </div></div> You mean increase your car <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">and</span></span> house insurance

Speedster, First welcome back. When will you start your gazillion long thread For your reading pleasure, here's a article on different method on how to hook them up. That hook up looked that it was meant to allow fuel to be easily pull by the mech fuel pump without going through the electric fuel pump. I have the electric pump with a regulator set up but I was thinking to change to the bypass method as it made sense.

Well got them off tonight. I had more trouble with the manifold to the exhaust pipe-not because they were tight, but jsut getting at them. It's great working on an engine that has been worked on in the past decade. So now they are ready to be shipped off to be porcelainized.

I thought about ceramic coating, but I was convince that this guy does a good job on the porcelain. He even has a break in recommendation for the units once you put them on the car. I'm trying to get the car to as original as possible though I heard there is a risk with porcelain. He did indicate that Jaguars were the worst as their exhaust manifolds ran a lot hotter.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packard32</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Not them Tbird.... He talked to them and fell over at the price they quoted him. I'm just lucky I had mine done years ago...B </div></div> Well compared to what it's going to cost to chrome the grill shutters, not bad. Well I'm on the home stretch to "finishing" my car though I know a lot of people out there thought I should had stopped right after I bought it However I'm going to save a bunch by not chroming the wheels.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packard32</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> We played on the internet, and found a company in (I think) Missouri. They gave him a very low price on the deal, but, from what he says, it's a bad job.... Thank you both so much for the help...B </div></div> Hopefully it's not PRAIRIE AUTO PORCELAIN in Minn that I was planning to use.