tbirdman

From my observations full classic open cars have really increased in pricing in the past year so maybe your reference points are dated. Packard 32-34 coupe roadster in excellent condition are now selling for $225-$250K. A V12 34 just sold for $570K at a RM Auction The auction report indicated that the car wasn't as nice as the money paid for it indicated. I would guess a 36 coupe roadster which is not as popular as a 32-34 in excellent shape will sell for about $130-150K. Again I'm just taking a semi-educated guess.

Ed, Thanks. Found out that Hirsch has replacements. Also getting some green engine paint form Hirsch for my winter engine detailing project. I may have Jim rebuild my original one to keep as a spare.

Looks like my radiator shutter thermostat gave up the ghost. Took the car out for a ride and it overheated when the shutters didn't open. I was able to make it home by wedging the shutters open. Any advice where to get a replacement. More concerned about quality than price.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BJM</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> My point there is that if I own a car that can be shown, my 1st goal is to be able to enjoy driving it, next is to be able to show it, followed by interacting with the public with it. In a restored "Full Classic"'s lifetime, how many times do you suppose it get's shown, driven, enjoyed by a broader circle then just an immediate few folks. That is what I meant most by stating I would participate in other club settings. I'm a poor guy monetarily, and the 46 Connie I mentioned I can afford - it's a project. If I restored it and was able to show and drive, I would still feel inferior to the hoi poli that owned Full Classics in the $100,000 to $1,000,000 range. I'm pretty sure, I couldn't even 'fake' it if I showed up. </div></div> Well I drive my full classic 2-3 times a week in nice weather. Also you can get full classics in the 30K range. In fact a lot of full classic are less than these 60s muscle cars. Why would you attempt to enter a show where your car was the accepted margue? Plenty of non classic car show out there. I would enter my Packard in an all Ford show. I know a guy who owns mostly full classics, but has a weekly coffee meeting with friend who owns both classic and non classic such as chevys, fords etc. Your argument against the CCCA is IMHO vey weak.

Thanks for the input on the underhood gloss. I was using the PI detailing manual, and from what I could tell, where they wer calling out gloss black, it's really semi-gloss black that may be correct.

OK, I need some education. I was told not to use lacquer, because it would crack. Is the cracking a result of a poor paint job. Also wouldn't an acrylic enamel give you a similiar authentic look, but without the bc/cc shine. I personally would not paint it with bc/cc. I do have to agree that a lot of people are impressed with the bc/cc. There's a 36 120b sedan that is done mostly correct but has a root beer metal flake paint job. The paint job impresses a lot of people at local car shows, tho Packard enthusiasts thumb there nose at it. Funny thing about this car and the owner. About three weeks ago he showed up at a car show that I attended. After seeing my car, I was told he attempted to enter the import class instead of the 30s because his car was built in Windsor, Canada Not to derail the topic, but I do have a question about gloss black for under the hood. I have used black acrylic enamel for under the hood parts that are suppose to be gloss black, but it just seems too glossy. Is that the paint, or are these black gloss items supposed to be that shiney?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tbirdman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">They also can use optional cermaic coating on the inside of the exhaust manifold to keep the heat away from the porcelain. </div></div> I've been told that this process smoothes out the inside of the manifold, thus increases horsepower. I wonder just how calculable that increase would be. I've been told 10% more hp, but that doesn't seem feasable to me. We did it on the 734 Speedster, but the engine's not quite back together yet, so I can't tell you how well it works. </div></div> I'm not about to put my Packard on a dyno...I leave that up to you West.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tbirdman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I talked to a guy in So Cal who has had multiple manifolds done by PRAIRIE AUTO PORCELAIN. He swears by his work. He said he has no trouble with the porcelain carcking, and he has driven his cars on Caravans. He did say that there is a burn in process once you install the manifold back on the car. Price for a 37 V12 manifold was about ~$1200. The contact at PAP is Tom Sparrow and his cell phone is 507-645-5325. </div></div> I spoke with Tom Sparrow at PMP. He said he has good luck with Packard manifolds. He said the success of the Porcelain has to do with a couple of things. The engine tuning: engines that run lean will have hotter exhaust. Richer is better for the manifold porcelain. The shape of the exhaust. More repairs, the harder it is to get the Porcelain to hold up. They also can use optional cermaic coating on the inside of the exhaust manifold to keep the heat away from the porcelain. I'll guess I'll try him this winter. 1-2 week turnaround.

I talked to a guy in So Cal who has had multiple manifolds done by PRAIRIE AUTO PORCELAIN. He swears by his work. He said he has no trouble with the porcelain carcking, and he has driven his cars on Caravans. He did say that there is a burn in process once you install the manifold back on the car. Price for a 37 V12 manifold was about ~$1200. The contact at PAP is Tom Sparrow and his cell phone is 507-645-5325.

Randy, What did you end up doing for your manifold?

Ed, I'll send you a PM with the email of one of the workers there. I rather not expose his email to the spammers of the world. Funny thing is last Oct at Hersey, I spotted a dash engine turn piece with bezel for sale for $300. I offered $100 explaining I just wanted a spare in case I screwed up the one I had. The person manning the space said I would have to talk to his dad who wasn't there at the time. I came back later, and spoke with his dad. He said he would not take less than $300 but he said you can buy a repro right around the corner. I went to the spot pointed out to me, and this vendor never had these pieces out for display. He makes a lot of 32 repo parts but leaning more towards the V-12s.

Can you also send to me.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packard32</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is there some way I can clean the center of the dash without ruining it? It is the engine turned section that holds the instruments. It looks like it's just dull... where the knobs and bezels were, it's more shiney and cleaner looking... thanks, Earl </div></div> You know that they sell a reporduction part now for $750. I do not have the address, but if you are interested let me know and I will dig it out. I used the repo on my interior restoration. However, just for grins, I did clean my up my original quite a bit using Wenol metal polish. It came out looking quite good for being 75 years old. dash picture

My T-Bird was a strange one. I had done the entire brake system the previous year and ran it for a full year with no issues. Some how over the winter the piston adjustment on the master cylinder got out off whack. It took me a long time to find that one because I never thought that would need re-adjusting. In regards to "Personally I would think it foolish and maybe even negligent to put an old car on the road without having first pulled the drums and checked the brakes"...been there, done it Guilty as charged.

Could it be that now that you have been driving it, the brakes are dragging for some reason though the car seems to move ok? After they overheat, they stop the car dead in its track. I have a T=Bird did that.

Owen, I had some guys look at the car this Saturday at a Packard event. One of the ideas is that the fingers of the clutch needed to be adjust. The free play adjustment was fine, but the clutch was not releasing all the way. So two questions. 1. You mentioned lubicant. Should I try to use some 600W lubricant as the next step? 2. They recommend having the clucth removed and having it readjusted. I thought I would wait until to the winter and tackle it then. I have never removed a transmission/clutch before but want to try it myself. I have a lift plus access to a transmission jack. The Packard shop manual is pretty brief on describing how to remove and reinstall the clutch/transmission. Is there another book I can acquire that has more details on how to do this project?

Owen, OK. I think I was trying to do things by the visible movements of the mechanism under the car. The problem is that I may have a heavy enough spring that it is difficult to tell when the resistance has changed as the spring tension may overehelm any other resistance. I'll try to look at it again tonight. Thanks.

Owen, Thanks. So I tried to adjust the clutch for free play. I was trying to adjust the clutch when the pedal caused the arm (fork) that goes into the side of the transmission started to move. I have adjusted the clutch in either direction which results in slipping or clashing. I guess my feet aren't sensitive enough to feel that change in resistance whne pushing in on the clutch maybe because of the spring tension. Is there an easy wayto adjust for proper free play? Thanks.

Owen, Can you define free play. Is thatthe point where the clutch engages. The way the clutch is adjusted now(and is working) almost immediately the clutch arm that goes into the transmission housing starts moving as soon as there is some travel on the cluth pedal. Definitely much less than a quarter of an inch.

The gear oil was changed last August. Not sure what type was used. Today, I adjusted the clutch pedal for less travel and it's back to normal. At least I drove it around the block once. ;)I was able to get it up on my lift so tonight I have an old car guy friend to come over and make sure I did it right. I'm fine except for the cotter pin end I cut in the chin when I moved my head too quickly Thanks for the advice.

One quick not. Now I can move the gear shift level through all gears without the engine running. I was examining the clutch mechanism but did not adjust anything. Did not start the car as it is after midnight though I should do it to [censored] off the neighbors who have noisy late night poker parties on Friday nights Too many other good neighbors.

Took the car out for a spin tonight. On the way home I ran into a issue that it was hard to shift into 2nd without gears grinding. Did some troubleshooting once I got home. With the car engine off, I can shift into all gears except reverse. If I start the engine, I cannot shift into 2nd or reverse without significant grinding. Also on the way home for a little bit, the clutch pedal felt strange at the bottom of it's travel. I'm looking for some pointers where to look. Clutch adjustment? Thanks, Was working fine since I gotthe car over a year ago. Nothing new was done to transmission or clutch recently.

Yesterday at the Forest Grove Concours I happened to meet the previous owner of my car. It was an interesting discussion. He had bought the car about 4 years ago from a guy who had spent a ton of money on the car trying to make it right. That owner had bought the car in 1994 for a pretty good sum and them dumped a bunch of money into it for which I have the receipts. That guy had really got the shaft from the dealer who supposely restored the car but just did a cosmetic restoration. Anyway the owner who I met yesterday bought it in ~2003 could never gain confidence in the car running without breaking down. He drove it maybe 150 miles. Much to his surprise I told him my tale of driving it about 1500 miles with only bad coil and points that caused any problems. We came (hopefully) to the conclusion that both him and the previous owner had sorted most of the mechanical problems out of the car. Also he didn't care for the color, though he said the new cranberry interior makes the car much much better. He said the color made it very difficult to sell the car when he had it. Also the local people knew about the car problems which made the sale difficult. I just don't know about the color. Time after time yesterday I was asked about the color and people expressed that they loved the color so maybe it's Northwest color . He also had a full set of keys which he gave to me. They were in a Lincoln leather holder which had Greenwich Conn embossed on it. The car wad delivered in Greenwich. Conn so maybe this is a clue to the cars history. Vey interesting day for me.

6686L, I understand your post, but still question why the car ran fine for a week and under the same operating conditions is now not with no changes to the system. If I took out the car today when the temp is close to 100 and the car exhibited the problem, I could see that the temp may have contributed to the problem. But the problem started to occur when operating conditions were pretty much stable from one time to another.

Steve Thanks for the compliments. I agree with you that letting kids sit in the seat and honk the horn is great. But those that think just because the car is out in the open, then I can do what I want with it. Then you have the guys who keep asking you what it's worth. I finally shut up a guy Sunday when I replied to him "You mind me asking how muchyou have in the bank"?