tbirdman

OK, I'm almost there. Got the hood off and the front shell with radiator off. Now I'm trying to remove the radiator and shutters from the grill. I have unbolted all of the bolts but the 3 on the side that look like they should be removed to get the radiator out as you would never get the top ones back in. So I'm stuck for now but I had too much fun for tonight. So what is the correct procedure for removing the radiator and shutters from the shell assembly?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mrpushbutton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">IIRC the radiator shutters are riveted to the common linkage that connects them to the thermostat "plunger" I think you have to drill them out and replace with new when you are done. Max Merritt makes the rivets, sells them in a pack, enough to do the job. </div></div> I already have the rivets however I'm going to let the chrome shop do that as they have a guy who specializes in restoring these that works with the shop.

Dayton wheels is charging the same for painted or chrome wheels, $950. If you just want what they call a B level restoration, it is $550 per wheel. B level restorations don't bother with filling in pits except what the primer will cover.

OK, made the 2X4's. I did it slightly different because my radial saw table was not together. I used strips of 1X4 to make the grooves and cut out areas. I had some extra micro fiber towels that I glue in those areas. I was amazed after working on the car front end last winter, the lights, horns etc came off in a jiffy. Now to wait for a couple of friends to get some free time. I hope to be able to lift the radiator over the headlight bar as that is quite involved to removed that piece, and I rather not go there.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">From the pictures on your other post, they look pretty darn good to me. Perhaps you should seek counseling. </div></div> It's like painting one room in your house...the next room then looks a lot worse next to the painted one and you end up painting that one. Soon the whole house is painted. Hey I nee something to do to pass the wet oregon weather.

Owen_Dyneto, Thanks. I was told that you could remove the shell, shutters and radiator as one piece and then remove the shutters, but wasn't sure how what to unbolt. I'll will most like remove the horns and lights to provide some more access.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm not sure why any good chrome shop wouldn't do it? It sounds like two different shops to me. One to take it apart, another to replate the needed pieces, the first to put it back together again and make sure it works. </div></div> As explained to me, the problem is the typical plating job would screw up the needed clearances.

That's the after. Here's the before . I hope you can see the difference

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I'm assuming you're not asking for opinions in regards to replating your grille shutters, as that's just an issue of weather you want to improve on quality. </div></div> Not really looking for opinion on them. The local Packard guys think I shouldn't mess with them because they think they are good enough, but I think that they need re-platng especially since really nothing else needs to be done on the outside of the car. Of course I already have one of the nicest cars in the club, so they think I'm crazy to try to improve it I guess I'm just sick. A lot of people think I trailer the car and can't believe I drive it. I hadn't considered adding lights but now that you mentioned it.....how about flashing leds like the rice burners. Well now I got the hood off (in my mind that is) now or someone to figure out how to remove the shutters.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ed Miller</div><div class="ubbcode-body">tbirdman, to begin, I have a 1933 Packard Twelve Convertible Sedan which is a Senior Emeritus CCCA 100 pointer and also was judged in a tie at the Packard Centennial meet asyou don't have to "gild the lily." Your Packard is wonderful. The colors are tasteful and of the period. Don't put anymore lights on it and don't put anymore chrome on it. </div></div> OK, I here all of you. Looks like I will save a bunch of expense this winter. However I wll rechrome the front grill. The front grill chrome is original and is very presentable. However it keeps reminding me of a beautiful woman with yellow teeth

Maybe I will have 4 people even with the helper 2x4s. Better safe than sorry. Great drawing. Now to figure out how to get the shutters off

Mr Pushbutton, I understand your design however I'm not sure why you just can't undo the radiator and cowl clamps and with mutliple people lift the hood off the car. Since I have never done this there is probably a easy explanation. Also once you have you walked the hood off the car, can you lay it down on a protected surface and then move it to vertical to carry it through a doorway to another room for safekeepng?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My thoughts are the same, but as was pointed out, in the end you need to do what YOU want to do. I admire you for seeking opinions from a LOT of different people. Too many people turn a really neat car into something no one else admires (not that they don't have the right to do so). </div></div> West, I find it difficult to visualize changes so that's why I ask so many. I hat to spend the money if in the end I have something that I don't even like. I also find it's interesting why so many are on the painted side, but very few on the chrome side. I do plan to added painted side covers to the sidemouts which will add to the finish look. Funny is I can almost visualize how good this car would look with blackwall tires now

Looking for someone that will restore windshield wipers for my 32 Packard. I can't find anyone who will replate the items that need repplating. All that I have found so far will just restore them to working, but not to restore the plating.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mrpushbutton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't think it's as easy as one may think to chrome the wheels you have--they have to come apart 100%, any pits in the rim and hub (which may be filled with primer/filler now) have to be copper-built up then totally sanded down to a common surface, the spokes have to be equally as pit-free and truthfully should be replaced with new spokes, likewise for the nipples, they need to be good, and the chrome plating can't bugger up the female threads. Then after you get all of that done, they have to be assembled on a hub-fixture with a run-out gauge, tweaked to minimal run-out. In other words, they can’t dunk your wheels in the tank whole and call it done. Or you can buy a set from Don Sommer (American Arrow) who will do all of that using new materials, about $2K/wheel, and I'm thinking the process I describe for chroming your old wheels might equal that amount. </div></div> Don Sommers is 20K for repro wheels or 12K if he uses your hub. Dayton wants $950/wheel which is up from $600 a year ago.

I've been again thinking about chroming my wire wheels. Seems like 99.5% of those I ask for a opinion, say keep them painted. So I wonder why most of the show cars I see, have chrome plated wheels. Most people say the color on my wheels tie in very nicely with the color of the car and that the additional chrome of the wires would be too much for such a subtle color. Also, they said I have enough chrome already, and this would be over the top. 1932 Packard 1932 Packard pictures

I would like to remove my radiator shutters for replating from my 32 coupe roadster without dismantling the whole front end of my car What's the best way to do this? Do I have to remove the headlight bar? Also how do you remove the hood. Thanks for the help.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When I had my front end all torn apart, I flushed the engined extremely thoroughly. I took out the water distribution tube to check, cleaned it, and put it back in as it looked practically new (50,000-mile car). On cool days (60-70 degrees or so), the shutters hardly even open when I just do some calm in-town driving, and the temp gauge stays right in the middle. </div></div> West, What was your flushing technique? I'm planning on doing thatthis winter also.

Also the towing service is also good if the member is only a passenger in the car. However you can't tow vehicles for just sending a car to a shop. I did once have a 48 chevy truck that I asked for a tow for to a shop I was going to have some work done on it. I told the AAA operator that I couldn't start it. She asked if it had ever started and I said yes. When the tow truch driver got at my place he found a 48 chevy truck with no seats seering gear, no drive shaft etc. I haven't done that in awhile though. Last winter I spent $150 each on 2 tows to get my car to the upholstery shop. During the driving season this year I didn't have to be towed once which is great and I hope to keep it that way.

[quote name=West Peterson Don't get confused about the differences between compound' date=' polish and wax (or glazes). Again, be careful when buffing around peaks and edges, even if you're working by hand. Compounds can take paint off very fast in those areas. West, I agree that polish won't help oxidation as it just fills in the paint suface to provide a smoother surface for the light to reflect off of it while waxes protect. However my point was to start off with the least aggressive compound to remove the least ammount of paint.

Not a fix, but for ~$90 AAA plus membership you get 4 tows a year 100 miles or less and those years that you do more than 4 there's a reasonable surcharge.

Looks like the 39 has been relisted on Ebay. The buy most had renorse after reading this thread

Definite progress. About 4 weeks away from finishing I start my winter projects on my car in about two weeks.

One recommendation is to start with the less aggressive compound vs starting at a very aggressive compound. Remember these compounds remove paint and the less you remove the better. I also have found that for quick detailing, Adams detailing works great. Mequires leaves a film. Plus Adam's smells like bubble gum I probably wax/polish my car maybe twice a year, and just use detailing in between. I have not found the waxes that I'm using yellow at all. I'm using Satin creme wax now.

I found the hard part in puting a price on these cars, is that there are not that many transaction to develop a pricing guide. It's not like BJ auction, where they sell 100 Corvettes every Jan. Buying a driver and then restoring it to show condition normally will cost more than buy a show condition car. The 39 V12 sedan seems high, though it look like a solid car. But for comparison, I saw a 34 V12 limo for sale #4 condition for an asking price of $60K and a V12 Club Sedan in 3- condition for $37K. So I agree that the 39 price seems high. I also was offered a 39 V12 in 2- condition for $70K. I have observed in the past two years that the 30s era closed cars have remained flat while the open cars have significantly increased. The good thing about buying a closed car, is that you get the same quality of a car for a lot less money than buying an open car. However the same holds true when you go to sell it. I hve the sadistic desire for my cars to be driven but also to be very nice condition which tends to be mutually exclusive.