tbirdman

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packin31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">HI Ken, Yes tried it all. Wd40, PB Blaster some heat still no avail. What do you want for your spare wheel? That is if I decided to beat mine up </div></div> I paid a $100 for it so I'd like to get at least that

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packin31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What do you do if you can't get the steering wheel off? I say that because I never did get mine off the column. So mine will have to be reinstall like Box wants to do it. May have to jack body up somewhat in order for steering box to clear the crankcase and to get it under firewall. I took it out by myself but will have someone here when it is time to reinstall it. Don't want to scratch up fresh paint job. </div></div> Ok Tom, I have a possible solution. I have an extra 32 steering wheel in very good shape. I believe 32 and 31 were the same. You can beat the old wheel off and buy my extra one as a replacement. However have you tried soaking the wheel hub in penetrating oil, wd40 for a week and then try to remove it by yanking each side in a back and forth motion?

AllI know is when I ask advice on mine, I was told good luck that you have a convertible. Good luck. Love those projects where you ar edoing things out of phase with the factory build.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jrbartlett</div><div class="ubbcode-body">On the '29 Super 8 sedan we had in the 1960s in original condition (before restoration), the splash shield bolts were installed from the bottom, with the lip of the shield on the bottomside of the aluminum crankcase. </div></div> Thanks for the info as I was planning to install them with the bolt down as that is how they came out of the car.

Per my parts book, you used one washer too many My were installed with the bolt on the top, and looks like you installed them the opposite way. Does any one know which way is correct, bolt going down through the frame or coming up? I found some places for cad plated bolts, nuts and washers. Old Dude has everything almost in Cad plus he claims to have old style nuts and different thickness of washers. Since I'm not sure what fasteners are original on my car, I'm wondering if flat bottom nuts (chamfer only on one side) is correct for a 32 packard. Am I getting to anal? Classic and exotic has cad bolts. Got some in and they look good.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Here's a pic of a '32 901 Sedan that appears to have external wire on rear hood-lace. So they must have been done both ways in '32 ? </div></div> But look at the picture. No loom holder for the spark wires. Incorrect color wire going to distributor cap. So if those two things are wrong, i sthe lacing correct? I suspect there's a lot of restorations perhaps done icorrectly leading to more being done incorrectly as they are being used as examples. For what it's worth, my hood lacing ha sthe wire inside of it.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Luckily I found a box of 50 Stainless-steel .75" long, 1/4" bolts, that I had left over from a previous project. (It's going to need about 40 of them) </div></div> So did you grind them down to 5/8" long because that's the length they originally came with.

You mean the two addition horseshoes that form the intake manifold. Those where shipped in a separate box. Being lighter, those were packed but in a cardboard box with building insulation to protect them. I should get those Monday. For whatever reason, they ship them a day apart. The piece above is exhaust and partly intake manifold.

I spent a weekend on that box using the advice of Tom Sparrow, the owner of Prairie Porcelain. He expressed great concern of the safety of the manifold getting to him in one piece without ears etc broken. Also he benfits as he does not have to take the time to make a crate to ship back the final product a sthe last thing he wants is his finished product to be damaged. The crate with the manifold tipped the scales at 120#. I offered the crate use to the local Packard club, as it could be reused many times for shipping parts. I had received a crate for my use from a guy who did a 37 V12 manifold with Prairie. The crate unfortunately was too short. Also it was not built as well as mine.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Thanks for the picture. The seal looks very much like hood-lace, so I think that is what I'll use. I see you have Plenty of 'Play-Doh' handy, hope you're not making Packard Parts with it. </div></div> We were going to use it to see if the valves were hitting the head after we resurfaced it. Inside the combustion chamber we noticed circles looked look like valve heads. However I'm convinced that these are machining marks and not the result of the valves hitting the head. Every chamber has them. Also I would have head them before we did the valve job. However we plan to put the head on the block without the gasket and feel if the valves are hitting the head whne cracking the engine over as we did take off about .020. Problem is it didn't stick to the head very well.

Here's the manifold back from Prairie Porcelain still bolted in the box.

Here's the picture of the center splash shield with the seal. I do not know if it's original but it is riveted.

Is it use for an air seal or more for preseventing the metal of the splash pans to rub against the crankcase? There's no seal where the spash pan are bolted to the frame.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I'm I correct that the front shield was not attached to the front of the engine, but only had a fabric spacer, (sort of like hood-lacing) between the shield and engine crankcase, to act as a pad and to block the air flow ??? If so, does anyone have a pic or know what that pad-spacer-seal looks like ??? </div></div> On my 32, the front one was not attached to the engine. I have any original 32 which is out of the car right now. Would a picture of that help? I had asked a question about the fabric seal but had received no response on what people use for a subsitute. Well I hope Henry does better on the air cleaner I ordered from him than the stone guard I received. I had to send back rumble seats steps from him. They were close but no cigar..couldn't be used.

Give me another year and I'll become interesting

I would if I were doing it because: 1. It was there when they built there 2. Looks more finished with he shields installed 3. Keep dirt out of the engine compartment 4. Place to lay your chicken dnner for heating it while driving Of course with your desires, these may be a don't care. It is interested that they do call them mud guards in the parts book.

If you try this method, please use a shield. This was taken from the Oregonian web site. "SOUTHWORTH, Wash. (AP) — A Kitsap County man who was frustrated at a being unable to loosen a lug nut shot the tire with a 12-gauge shotgun. The sheriff's office says the blast Saturday peppered the man with buckshot and debris. He was treated at Tacoma General Hospital. The 66-year-old man had been repairing a Lincoln Continental for two weeks at his home near Port Orchard."

I did not know that even existed. Thanks for the knowledge. I assumed they moved that function inside the car in 33.

I'm refering to the oil level gauge in the engine compartment and not the oil pressure gauge in the dash. I believe in 33 they did away with it and went with a dip stick instead.

Not for sale but I know the owner of this 1903 Holsman ...all original per him. We were playing a joke and added fuzzy dice and a monkey to the Holsman at a car show

I talked with both today. Burr Riply is one. His is a plastic material which surrounds a aluminum core. I have one of his and made the mistake of blasting it with aluminum oxide. So now I need to decide to repair or replace The other guy, is listed in the Packard Cormorant and is in Minn. He makes his out of billet aluminum. I don't have the mag with me so if someone could help with his number. Difference between the two is: Burly-plastic compund with aluminu, core and $350 shipped The other: billet aluminum, $475 and no raised letering on end towards firewall. Also supplies oil filter wrench for filter with purchase.

On a 32 903, what color is the oil gauge face suppose to be (in the engine compartment) I just got a repro which is black background with gold lettering. The one I pulled out looks white (or dirty brownish white) and black lettering.

Well I have located thicker head screws at Classic and Exotic So at $2.50 each, that is $100 to make the water jacket bolts correct...but will anyone notice. As typical I'm over budget on my winter project and it's only November. I used a deburring wheel on a buffer setup to grind off the stainless markings and polish them. At $40 not cheap, but does a great job off converting cheap stainless bolts to polished ones. One thing I'm looking for is a set of rods that have different threads in each end for different size bolts. That way you can screw the bolt in to the rod and have a handy holder while deburring/polishing the bolts. Those bolts can get hot I found company that made the rods once, but stopped because of no demand. I friend had a home made set.

Too many cars. I'll take the Auburn off your hands Please chime in on our posts because we all need help! Great looking car and kudos fro driving it. How do you win a reliability award? Were you the only one that didn't break down on the tour?

Can you find stainless with the right head thickness? All of mine came out without incident.