tbirdman

Since I failed to flush out the engine before I started my winter project, I want to put a filter in the raditor hoses to catch any engine crap. I had the radiator serviced and I want it to stay clean. I was thinking of using an old nylon stocking foot, and put it on the upper hose as a filter. Any problem with doing this?

Just got from the Portland Swap meet. Pick up a OD cut out regulator but it was in pretty bad shape. Don't know if it can be rebuilt. Also I don't know if it's the correct one as I can't find any numbers. The vendor also had a decent looking one with only one lead underneath which I assumed was a pre-32 cut out. These originals are definetely shorter than the aftermarkets.

OOPS! Forgot to putthat in the post. WS-STC0001 Restoration Specialties

OOPS! Forgot to putthat in the post. WS-STC0001 Restoration Specialties

Jim, Interesting thread about engine life. Since I have a 32 384, what should I expect in your research to engine life and weaknesses/strengths?

Jim, Interesting thread about engine life. Since I have a 32 384, what should I expect in your research to engine life and weaknesses/strengths?

Two weeks ago I sent a sample of the rubber to Restoration Specialties in Windber, PA. Today I got an exact match in the mail at $1.50 a foot.

Two weeks ago I sent a sample of the rubber to Restoration Specialties in Windber, PA. Today I got an exact match in the mail at $1.50 a foot.

Note on wrinkle paint. You can also probably get it at your local auto parts store. I found the best way to do the wrinkle paint is. 1. Put good coat of primer 2. heat object to be painted with heat gun or blow dryer 3. spray heavy coat paint 4. heat paint with heat gun or dryer 5. wait ten minutes and repeat steps 3 and 4 two more times Few hours later you should have a nice wrinkled finish. I also heard painting outside on a hot summer day makes everything a lot easier.

Note on wrinkle paint. You can also probably get it at your local auto parts store. I found the best way to do the wrinkle paint is. 1. Put good coat of primer 2. heat object to be painted with heat gun or blow dryer 3. spray heavy coat paint 4. heat paint with heat gun or dryer 5. wait ten minutes and repeat steps 3 and 4 two more times Few hours later you should have a nice wrinkled finish. I also heard painting outside on a hot summer day makes everything a lot easier.

I would think an open 120 in real good shape would bring 60K and a coupe probably 1/2 of that.

I would think an open 120 in real good shape would bring 60K and a coupe probably 1/2 of that.

I made the bracket out of sheet metal, and the trial fit works. From Kanter, this arrived today as a 32 cutout regulator.

I made the bracket out of sheet metal, and the trial fit works. From Kanter, this arrived today as a 32 cutout regulator.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1935Packard</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I check out their website from time to time for their wonderful pictures, and it seems that their prices tend to average about 25% over what I think of as market prices. </div></div> My only dealing with them was they came off the asking price rather quickly.

Probably it is. They is also another car, a 38 Packard that was bought he for $187K and is listed for $295K. No surprise, as a lot of dealers do buy cars at auctions. I've seen the owner of Hyman at auctions on TV. The trick is to have capital to buy the cars and then knowing what price you can turn the cars. I have neither the capital or the knowledge.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I didn't realize it needed to be moved That Much. That bracket design should work. The easiest way would be to move the regulator over on (inside) the framerail, with wire extensions from the generator. There's also the posibility of mounting the regulator on a band that goes all the way around the gen, held on by one clamping bolt (like later generators cover band). That way the regulator could be positioned anywhere you wanted it. The ends of the strap would probably need to be on top tho, where it is very visible. So, altho functionally good, those methods would not look original. </div></div> If I paint the bracket black and keep it thin, it should look OK. I, still waiting for the one from Kanter to come and see what it measures.

Thanks for the measurements. That extra 5/8" height explains the clearance issues. Mine even appears to be a little taller than yours NORS. Mine is not a solid state cut out.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tbirdman</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 34PackardRoadsta</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Try Dave Soltow at Yesteryear Antique Auto Parts (941) 743-7784 or yaap2000 at hotmail dit com. </div></div> Thanks Tom. I've talked with Dave and sent him a bunch of pictures as he tries to figure out what I have and if he has a solution. </div></div> Here's what Dave said. "You have a replacement cutout on your generator as I had mentioned that was for later year packards (starting in '35) by Auto-Lite. I think the one you have is a copy of the Auto-Lite unit. The Owens Dyneto unit originally on your Packard is shorter in height and a bit narrower (sq) as well. "

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 34PackardRoadsta</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Try Dave Soltow at Yesteryear Antique Auto Parts (941) 743-7784 or yaap2000 at hotmail dit com. </div></div> Thanks Tom. I've talked with Dave and sent him a bunch of pictures as he tries to figure out what I have and if he has a solution.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Can you just drill more holes in the regulators base, to rotate it more to toward the fender and maybe use larger washers, to cover the elongated holes, if needed. I don't think anyone will ever notice. Of course, we wouldn't want to do anything that YOU will notice every time you look at it and keep You awake at night. LOL </div></div> The bracket is at it's very end of the travel. The issue with rotaing the cutout is the top screw hole is no longer under the bracket, while the other screw hole is under the cutout. I was thinking of making another bracket and mounting that on the generator and then mounting the cutout bracket to it somehow. See my crude drawing below. I was thinking of welding the screws to the new bracket. Better ideas? I only need about a 1/4" to 3/8" of rotation

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Owen_Dyneto</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Pretty easy to spot the NORS cutout and regulator, the cover is held on by a nut in the top center, the originals were held on by screws on the sides. The Echlin/NAPA NORS unit is just slightly larger than the original O-D units. If you want the exact dimensional differences, let me know and I'll measure a pair and post. </div></div> If you could measure them, I would appreciate it. Thanks.

I think I have figured out the problem. Looks like I have an aftermarket cut out regulator. Comparing the height to a picture of one I found on Max Merritt's web site, it is about 1/2" taller, about 2 3/4" tall vs 2 1/2" tall. Max didn't have any for a 32, but I do have an aftermarket coming from Kanters. If it is not smaller, then I guess I need to figure out a creative way to mount the regulator or cut it down to size. Looking at the previous owner shop receipt notes, it appears they installed a new cut out and bent the air cleaner to fit. However in the notes instead of saying dent, they wrote adjust. Anyone have a 32 cut out regualor laying around?

West, Then you are more than welcome to come over and help me work on my air cleaner:) But agree with you on doing things yourself and the challenge. Having own cars that I have restored and cars that I have bought already restored, there is quite a different feeling when people ask you if you did the work. I just got done painting my sidemount covers. By the time I bought the supplies I could had done it cheaper. But in the process I did learn a lot and improved on my body and paint skills. Part of the expense was buying an Airvantage 6" DA and Abralon 1000, 2000 and 4000 grit pads to do the wet sandinging on the covers. The paint supplier said a lot of body shops are going to this technique as it eliminates a lot of the final polishing and hand wet sanding. SO I'm learning though not at a reduced expense

In regards to finding parts, I find belonging to the two Packard national clubs and receiving their magazines with ads in the back and suscribing to Hemmings, helps find a lot of parts. As an example, I was surprised one day to find that a Packard region had reproduced the metal pieces that connect the 32 horns to the brackets that mount them on to the headlight bar. One of mine had broke, and I was all set to try to make a new one. At $50 a pair they were cheap to me like the $75 for those rack knobs. It was interesting as it was a part only for 32. I suppose a member must had made for his car, and then made it a regional project. I was very surprise but glad when I saw the ad.