Rooster

Mystery solved !!! At last. We have been the sold the wrong lifters , they are indeed for a 1956. Thanks to your measurements Bob we were able to confirm this straight away. Pity we had to go through much grief and lost time ( and now $$ )to find out. Thanks also to all others who gave advice and took an interest in our drama. Cheers, Ken. ( aka Rooster )

Thanks heaps for all that Bob. We will check the measurements etc and post results. Ken.

Yes we tried that. Put a 2mm washer under each post to raise it and still no compression. Bob are you sure the push rod you have is 1956 @ 8 3/16 inches long ? Could that one be a 55 and the 56 is 3/16 longer , which is close to the point we need to achieve on the rocker deck. Ken.

Houston , we have a problem. A big problem. But first let me tell you about last week's episode. The engine builder FORGOT to replace the plug in the rear oil gallery , the one behind the flywheel. And when we cranked over about 1/2 gallon of oil pumped out onto the ground. So unfortunately we already have pulled the engine and tranny last week. But this week sends us more problems ( on top of the lifter issue--won't go into details here) But you may be on track here with the 55 , 56 interchange. The push rods we have are 8 3/8 inch long. The same length as a member's 56 engine. This sounds like it could be our problem ? The lifters are new and appear to be the same length as originals. We did not keep the old push rods to compare. Bob can you confirm the correct length for the 55 pushrod. Thanks for your continued assisstance. Cheers, Ken.

We have taken the rocker shafts off and cranked engine. With all the valves closed there is plenty of compression, enough to blow your finger out the hole. We're back to square one. It has to be in the lifter , push rod area. Can only think we've got the wrong push rods in there ( new ones - too long ? ) or air in lifter not allowing valve spring pressure to compress lifter back. Ken.

We've got the timing cover off. There is 12 links between O punch marks. We will take off both srockets to check the keyways. Still confused as to why there is NO compression on any of the 8 cylinders. Surely even if the timing was way out there would be compression on some ? Ken.

We have eliminated the lifters as a problem. There is good oil pressure and they are all moving the required amount. Sounds like it could be a timing issue and we are getting the timing cover off to check. The engine was put together by an engine shop. Apart from the 12 link issue , what other sequence should we be checking ? Thanks. Ken.

Yes, it has to be one or the other. We reckon it's all to do with the lifters. They are either not filling up with oil or have air in them not allowing the valve spring pressure to seat the lifter and hence the valve onto it's seat. How can we get rid of the air in lifter while it is still inside the engine. Ken.

We are trying to start new re-built 55 Naihead engine. Took all spark plugs out and cranked to prime oil pump --- good oil pressure. Good fuel supply. Double checked timing, strong spark. Engine has NO compression. Took rocker covers off and valves moving freely up and down. Poured oil into cylinders to try and raise some compression , but nothing . Any ideas please. Ken.

If you're in Australia get hold of some Penrite 250. Use it in transmission and rear axle. As for steering box --- if you have it apart stuff it with grease. Oil will run out eventually. If it's still in the car I don't think you can drain it, just top up with 250 and keep doing that until all the thinner oil drains ie. leaks away. Ken 1929

I have never used them, but a fellow enthusiast / restorer has and he says will NEVER deal with them again. Mainly over shipping issues I believe. Ken.

Thanks Bob. Ken. 1929 (1954 I)

Looking for specs and how to adjust valve clearance on re-built 54 - 56 Nailhead engine. Ken. 1929 ( 1954 I )

<span style="font-weight: bold"> <span style="font-style: italic">Hey Ken, What's that ( 1954 I ) under your name mean????</span></span> No wonder you made 37 years as a copper , always got an equisitive mind.

I agree. Drive it. I don't know the car's or your background, but if you've been through it what more can you do. Let's face it , a 1964 Buick is not that old compared to say Pre-War stuff. If you drive in convoy or at least have a passenger that's comfort in itself. Load up the trunk with some tools and hit the road !! Last year I drove a 1971 Centurion home from the Australian Nationals ( New York -- LA distance ) Apart from a loose exhaust , it never missed a bit. Bon Voyage + Good Luck Ken 1929 ( 1954 I )

It's a long way to call for me. Log in and send me your e-mail address in messages. I only have this contact's e-mail address to forward to you. Ken.

I've got a lead for you. PM sent. Ken.

Sounds like a hoot Brian. And that beer tent ------------------------------ Hic !! Ken.

Gary consider this. Your old tank is most certainly rusted inside. I've heard of all these concoctions to fix and seal tanks. I've never used them , I have my own process for cleaning out tanks. But depending on the amount and location of the rust , it can sometimes be hard even for me to get the rust out. Firstly you have to buy this fancy stuff , mess around with chemicals and even at the end of the process can you be guaranteed of success ? Your metal is thin and bent out of shape. The only true way to fix those symptoms are to cut out pieces and weld back in. An extremely dangerous job --- even if no fuel has been in it for years. Pockets of vapour get trapped in all sorts of crevices , and KA BOOM !! My advice , bite the bullet and buy the new tank while you can. It will save you time and money in the end. To me, $250 for a new tank is cheap!! Good luck. Ken ( aka Rooster) 1929 (1954 I )

What's wrong with your old one ? Ken. 1929 ( 1954 I )

Thanks for your ideas. Sounds like the latter one is probably worth investgating. Although if one wasn't concerned about cutting hole on frame that's a possibility as well. Any more ideas please post. Cheers, Ken. 1929 ( 1954 )

1954s must be the flavour of the month going on the recent posts here --- and why not ! Anyhow, I'm after info on the practicality ( can it be done ? ) of installing a dual exhaust on a 1954 model. I believe it's very busy on the left manifold side with steering box , brake master etc. but has anybody routed an exhaust pipe through that maze ? Ken. 1929 (1954)

I had vapour lock on my 1929 real bad when I first got it on the road. There are a few things you can do , but the only one that worked for me was to instal an electric fuel pump. I bolted it up on the chassis next to the fuel tank in line with the original fuel line. I only use it when first starting after a long layoff to fill carby bowl or when it does vapour lock. After it clears turn off. The original pump will still continue to work. You can also try insulating the fuel line from tank to original pump. I tried this but made little difference. Another trick is to set up a return line from the original pump back to tank. What this does is have the fuel continually flowing , not held up in the line or pump getting hot and then eventually vapourizing. Most apparent to happen when you are stuck at traffic signals or in slow moving traffic, parades etc. Another trick I've heard , but not tried is to add about a cup full of diesel to a tank of petrol. This is supposed to stop vapourizing. As I said I've never tried it. Put in an electric pump with a remote underdash on / off switch and you won't go wrong. Cheers, Ken. 1929 Tourer.

Why can't you restore the convertible as is ? Let's see a picture of it and we'll make a decision for you. Ken. 1929.

Stu , Looks like you and me both need a teenager around ! Ken. 1929.