Rooster

My 1954 does not have the vacuum wipers connected. On closer scrutiny it looks like the original fuel pump is not fitted. An electric unit pumps through the non-original mechanical pump. Question is --- can the wipers work directly off engine vacuum without the assistance of the fuel pump diaphram ? Thanks.

Patrick , how about an update on how your modifications are going.

That size should be correct, at least that's what is on my 1954 Roadmaster. The offset or backspace is 3 3/8" ie. the distance from the mounting flange face to the outside of the rim.

I'm thinking of fitting one to Irene. I see a unit on local Ebay. Will hose clamps be OK for the pressure or should I go for one with screwed ends ?

I haven't heard of anybody offering that process this side of the country. There are platers that can re-silver the reflectors but nobody who is prepared to cut and shut. Maybe on the east coast ? I'll ask around. As I recall the silvering is expensive, maybe $200 a pair ?? Someone in our local club had a pair of vintage reflectors done a while ago. I cheated on the ' 29 and had them chromed. I don't drive it at night so it didn't matter.

Thanks for the confirmation Lamar. I'll have to get out there again and take a closer look. Damn getting older the eyes only get worse. I got most of the numbers correct so will see if the others can be identified for the authorities. And yes, your emails have been coming through but mine keep coming back. Maybe your spam program doesn't like Rooster ?

Finally got a set of gears for Irene's rear end. So hopefully before too much longer she will eventually be back on the road. I need to take an opportunity via this forum to express my sincere gratitude to Willie, BCA member from Texas who persevered with the local wrecking yard to obtain a good set after a few failures due to most cars in the yard having the dreaded water / condensation in the rear axle housing. The parts arrived all nicely packed by Willie, clean and covered in rust preventer. What more could I ask for ? The Buick brotherhood certainly does stretch far and wide and I am most appreciative for Willie's time and help. As we would say Down Under " you're a top bloke " Thanks. Irene says she will give an update report when her wheels turn again.

I'm having difficulty in reading the engine number on the 1954 block ( 322 ) Is there any significant number sequence or letters pertaining to this year/ model. Also, we have determined that the dynaflow is from a '55 model so there is a chance the engine may be as well. Thanks.

I would be almost positive that it would be the Chev bolt pattern. GM Holden and Chev were / are much aligned with mechanical designs and some parts. Pat, just check with any local auto trans workshop and they will give you the correct information. Even the local hot rod fraternity will have the good info. I did see a Buick T350 ( cheap ) on Ebay Australia some time ago, it did not sell if I remember correctly. Make enquiries through the BCA ( NSW) and see if you can locate someone wrecking a suitable car if you want to stay Buick. If it was me I would go for the Chev trans , much easier to locate. A T350 would be cheaper too. Depending on how many HP your engine will put out , will decide which one to go for ( T350 or T400 )

With the increasing cost of fuel can you afford to run that manifold ??

I've never been too fussed on a station wagon, but I like that casino beige one especially with the wires. It would make a great half sister for Irene.

That's my girl. If only I could get her all back together again. Dash, garnish mouldings, door trims, quarter windows, door handles, wheels, brakes, DIFF, ........................

Love the '61 models , they are my favourite of the 1960s. There's something about those rear tail lights.

Yep, an E-Type Jaguar. One of the pine supports snapped (surprise , surprise !!) and put a dent in it's roof. The owner was not happy and I don't blame him. Although it could have been worse. Another 2 inches forward and the windscreen would have smashed and the frame bent badly. It was only about the size of a CD so an easy fix for a body repair shop.

That shipper only works out of Australia, so the new owner will not encounter them --- I hope !! The actual company that "shipped" it on the ocean and receival warehouse were actually quite good, just the freight forwarder was the problem. The container packers in L.A. could have done a much better job of stacking and securing Irene. But still , at least she was not damaged.

Well my German is not that good, but does this mean another export ??

We must crawl before we can walk ----- A better question to be asked first. Will the '56 or '57 Caddy hubcaps fit on the Super & Roadmaster rims ? The design of both is different looking from behind. The '56 is quite bulky in that area.

Yes the same for engines and trannies. One reason why taxi cab engines can do so many miles is that they are hardly ever cold. That is if the car is being used 24 hours a day in shifts they are always hot and don't get a chance to get condensation. If they do go cold and get some condensation, that will be burnt off when it gets hot again which is usually soon after.

Looks like what they do is take out the '57 Cadillac emblem and replace it with a bullet. I found a custom car website that sells the bullets. Mmmm, Irene would look nice with those on. Anyone got a set for sale ??

Thanks for volunteering to check it out anyway Lamar. As they say "you don't know until you give it a go " I'm grateful for the response on this thread. Looks like Old Tank ( Willie) might be on the trail of something and if that doesn't work out then progoofoff ( Bob) has offered to help. rlbleeker is correct. That's exactly how the water condensation collects. A lesson for us all --- change the oil at some point(s) in the rear's lifetime. The factory manual says you don't have to but here's proof you do !

Lamar, where exactly are the pits. As you look at the ring gear from filler hole level are they on the upper or lower " V " of the tooth. And are they on every tooth or just on one section of teeth ? I doubt that they are casting defects, most likely rust pits due to water condensation in the oil. A close up photo might give a clue. Yes you can bring it all out the rear without taking off torque tube. Once the axle circlips are removed the axles slide sideways, unbolt carrier ( 4 big bolts) then remove. To get pinion out unbolt the 3 external locknuts/ bolts then with some prying with a big tyre lever behind the pinion gear it " should " come out complete with drive shaft. If there is no transmission in chassis then hit the driveshaft with hammer using wooden drift from the torque ball end. Then you'll have some fun trying to get driveshaft off pinion splines. If driveshaft is not being re-used then cut it off close to end of pinion and then press off what's left. Let's have a look at the pits first before proceeding any further. The ratio will be stamped on the edge of the ring gear eg. 47 - 14 ( 3.4: 1 )

I've had offers of help to get ring & pinion out of a parts car, but that requires some extra work on member behalf. If any member has a 1955 rear end out or in pieces already who can sell good ring & pinion to me, that would eliminate the extra work that I'll have to burden someone with. I would be extra grateful for that. BTW , I'll take a R & P from a 1954 Century, Super, Roadmaster ( 3.4 :1 )Dynaflow OR as a last resort, R & P from a 1950 -53 Super, Roadmaster ( 3.6:1 ) Dynaflow if you don't mind knocking out the ring gear rivets for me please. Thanks for any help.

A Buick restorer I know has a 48 Super and he wants to put WWW radials on his car. What would be the maximum size that can be fitted to the standard rim that will not have the tyre rubbing against the tie rod end or the inner guard / chassis. Since he asked me, I'm interested also to know the answer for my 1954 76R Thanks.

Lamar , I'll send you an e-mail.

That is a great website !!