Mark Shaw

Definately not 31 Buick because they did not have double ribs on the belt-line of the body.

Good idea. We had the same problem with the BrassBuicks group on Yahoo. Wearing a hat or shirt or just a special colored name tag might do the trick. But if somebody comes up with a keg & a meeting room at the host hotel, there would probably be a lot more than are really members of this forum.

Maybe you otta post this on the Buick buy/sell listing?

This is all good info, and I am sure it is all correct. But it seems to me that if detergent oils do their job to dissolve, loosen, and/or suspend some of the build up in an old engine that has run all it's life on non-detergent oils, changing to detergent oil would most certainly plug up an oil filter much sooner. My 13 & 15 Buicks have no filter. The 13 has a once through oil system that needs about a quart of used oil drained every 100-200 miles. Although my later model 29 & 31 Buicks have filters, only a small portion of the oil pump's output goes through the filter in these cars. Therefore, at the very least, you must change the filter more frequently after changing to detergent oils. I agree that if you have a freshly rebuilt engine, using detergent oil is a good idea. However, in my opinion, changing from non-detergent to detergent oil on an older worn engine will not extend the engine's life and may actually shorten the time when it needs to be rebuilt. Then you can use any oil you prefer...even synthetics. But that's another story.

Dave, I have a business trip to San Diego planned for December 5th - 8th. Maybe I could take a look at your Buick that week?

Josef, I think you will have better luck finding manuals on Ebay or just go to: http://members.aol.com/buickohv/ars.htm

Dave, You are getting some great advice here. Be patient with getting your engine un-stuck. In addition to putting Marvel oil in the cylinders, I suggest you use PT Blaster on the crank & rod bearings. My 15 Buick was stuck while it soaked in Marvel for a month. It didn't budge until I also soaked the crank bearings. My son put some pressure on the crank while I gently tapped on the bottom bearings. It broke loose when I tapped on the middle main bearing.

There are two 1923 4 cylinder and one 1923 Six cylinder in the Vancouver WA area. Dave Ebert has one just like yours. I am sure he will be glad to share info with you. dle38@comcast.net

I believe you are right about using detergent oils. I am sure others will differ with me, but I use the cheapest non-detergent oil I can find. I only drive about 1000 miles per year in my old Buicks, and I change the oil and filter every year when I winterize my cars. The additives are in the oil to prolong the life and maintain viscosity well beyond the mileage I put on these cars each year. So why pay extra when any modern non-detergent oil is much better than the oils used in these cars when they were new?

1964 BUICK ELECTRA 225 - $4975 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Reply to: sale-227903273@craigslist.org Date: 2006-10-30, 3:01PM PST EXCELLENT 1964 BUICK ELECTRA 225 4DR HARDTOP EXCELLENT INTERIOR..NO RIPS, TEARS, HOLES, FADE, OR STAIN.. EXCELLENT CHROME..NICE SHINE WITH NO PITS. EXCELLENT GLASS..NO CRACKS OR CHIPS. THIS IS A TAN CAR WITH LIGHT GREEN INTERIOR....GOOD PAINT WITH JUST A FEW DOOR NICKS....DRIVES WELL... PICTURES ON REQUEST...CAN DELIVER AT A VERY RESONABLE COST... CALL DICK FOR DETAILS...509 646 3451

Well, it is a valve in head engine with a Delco starter generator in line with the distributor and water pump.....just like a Buick & definately GM. Since the head is all one piece, I would guess it is 1916 or newer. Check for any engine numbers or numbers on the starter generator to nail it down.

Yes Lamar, I have been watching this on the AACA forum. But I have not yet posted my shop project because it isn't finished yet. However, since it will never be finished, and this is the Buick forum, here goes.... I moved three years ago from a 3 acre place in the country with a barn where I parked my Buicks. It also had lots of room to park my covered car trailer, etc. We searched for two years before we found a one level house with enough room on one side to build a shop with car storage. In less than six months, I added a 26' X 34' pole building onto one side of my house where a big side yard used to be. I can now park 5 cars; 4 on the floor and one on the four post lift. The best part is that it has radiant floor heat that my son and I instlled for less than $300. And one of the two heating loops heats only the work bay where I can work through the winter on a project car without heating the entire shop space. My neighbors were worried when I moved in and told them my plans, but it is finished outside to look like the rest of the house with the same roof, siding, colors, etc. The shop also has a loft on one side & an electric jib hoist that enables me to lift heavy items for overhead storage. I beefed up the double truss system with a 6" X 6" post in the middle & mounted the jib hoist at the peak. the loft is strong enough to store Buick engines, but for now I keep my spare engines under my work benches. I planned to finish insulating and finishing the walls before it got too cold, but it seems I am a little late now. As for tools; I have a small MIG welder, grinder, small (antique) metal lathe, drill press, and lots of hand tools.

Vince, It would help to know where you are located. What brand carb do you need? I know a guy in Portland Oregon that makes custome top bows.

Don't forget the bottom bearings too. I got one of my Buick engines to turn by tapping each rod and main bearing while my son applied pressure to the crank.

How early could it be if it is 12 volt?

The Tinindian has offered some good advice here. I too use marine spar varnish with no stain or other color. The varnish is all you need & will darken the wood to look just right. I spent days sanding and picking old paint from the grain in my 29 Buick wheels with dental instruments before varnishing them. But after a local sandblaster demonstrated what he could do, I had the old boy blast my 15 Buick wheels. They came out perfect for varnishing. He used greensand and low pressure to remove the oxidation on the fellows and the wood spokes came out just fine. Blasting will reveal where the spokes are soft or rotted, so this is a good way to tell if you need to replace rather than just refinish. Don't forget to varnish the ends of the spokes to seal them where they come through the fellow.

1938 Buick Special Transmission - $250 1938 Buick Special transmission painted the original Buick green. Phone: 425-432-1546 Email: debdhelm@comcast.net

Hey Dirtybird, Welcome, you will most definately learn a lot in this forum. And, there is a modified forum for Buicks on this site. Check it out. Just remember the Falcon is "Ford's Other Bird"

Try contacting Olsen's Gaskets. He buys NOS gaskets wherever he can find them. http://www.olsonsgaskets.com/

One just sold on Ebay Oct 29th. Winning bid: US $280.00 I suggest you get your plater to find one for you, or you may have to buy a whole parts car to get one.

Centurion... Regarding http://www.triplexrootbeer.com/ Check out the menu for take out orders. You might ask the owner if it is a good idea to order take out meals prior to leaving the hotel for this event. There might be very long lines and the cook might appreciate some orders ahead of the big rush for dinner....

I agree with Mr Sullivan when he wrote: "All my pre-war cars heat up considerably on hills. You are burning much more fuel in this situation and have much more heat to remove. The cooling margins on these old cars is not sufficient to keep the temperature in the 160- 180 F range. Remember the thermal efficiency of an old engine is pathetic compared to a modern engine. So, whatever power the engine delivers, there is a proportional amount of heat that much be removed by the radiator. Finally, I don't think running and old car at, say 200 to 220 F is particularly damaging, even if there is some coolant boiling. Boiling takes a lot of heat out of the engine. Just make sure you carry extra coolant so she doesn't drop coolant levels below the top of the radiator tubes. During this winter, I suggest you drive your car long and often. This will help improve the cooling problem and allow you go get more familiar with the car." All prewar cars run better around 180-190 degrees F. They all get hotter going uphill too. If you have your coolant level right, you can still expect to add a quart or more every hundred miles or so, especially in hills. I think you just have a typical "rebuilt engine run-in" where you need to slow down and/or wait for cooler weather to break in your rebuilt motor. Changing the fan blades etc will only help for "parade speeds" as your car will get much more air flow at 40+ mph over the entire radiator than any fan can deliver.

I have several lenses to sell or trade for one good pair of 8 3/4" Flintex lenses. I also have three Violet Ray lenses; 7", 8 1/2", & 8 7/8". I have one bubble type 9 1/4" "Warner Lenz". I have one 8 1/2" Flintex lens. I am open to sell or trade. Please email me for photos durcodude@comcast.net

I have several lenses to sell or trade for one good pair of 8 3/4" Flintex lenses. I also have three Violet Ray lenses; 7", 8 1/2", & 8 7/8". I have one bubble type 9 1/4" "Warner Lenz". I have one 8 1/2" Flintex lens. I am open to sell or trade. Please email me for photos durcodude@comcast.net

Mechanical linkages are always subject to wear. Buick throttle linkages did not have lube fittings like the old mechanical brake systems. So, most simply didn't get lubricated. Check each linkage joint for grooves in the rod bearing surfaces. Smooth them with a file and lubricate with motor oil. Also make sure the rods are not bent or rubbing where they go through holes in the floor or near other engine parts. If this doesn't solve the problem, you might have the carb checked again.