Mark Shaw

One of my Buick buddies needs to replace a rear hub to get his car back on the road. It is an eight bolt hub, the OD where it rests against the spokes is 9", the width from the spokes to the outer end of the hub cap threads is 3 3/4", and the OD of the hub cap threads is also 3 3/4". Attached photos should help with identification. Please email me directly if you have a spare. durcodude@comcast.net

One of my Buick buddies needs to replace a rear hub to get his car back on the road. It is an eight bolt hub, the OD where it rests against the spokes is 9", the width from the spokes to the outer end of the hub cap threads is 3 3/4", and the OD of the hub cap threads is also 3 3/4". This is for a 1915 C-36 Buick. Attached photos should help with identification. Please email me directly if you have a spare. durcodude@comcast.net

Sorry the second photo is so fuzzy, but you can see why he needs a new hub.

Linseed oil will replenish what was lost over the years, but I probably will not restore the original dimensions. One option is a product used in furniture repair shops called "Wood Swell". I have used it to restore loose wood spokes in my artillery wheels & it works great to tighten wood joints.

I too have a Chevy Silverado. Mine is a Z71 with a 5.3L V8. I get 20 mpg on the highway unloaded and about 13 mpg towing heavy Buicks. Get a full size truck to tow vehicles. A half ton will work OK for open trailers...you might want a 3/4 ton for enclosed trailers...for the extra weight & wind resistance. Keep it legal for your own good and everyone else on the road.

I just couldn't resist bringing the Buick pedal car. One of our club members has a Model T go-cart that he uses to buzz the parking lot at car events. So I just couldn't pass up the chance to show him that we have a litle red "Buick" too. You should have seen all the laughs we got with people pointing at the car on the freeway!

SkyKing, Yeah, really really small....

Buyer beware this is a Northwest car with significant rust in the rear quarter panels that was not properly repaired years ago as well as some other paint issues. This may be a good candidate for a good body & paint guy. sale-440094655@craigslist.org 1964 Buick Skylark Good Condition 2 Door Hardtop Wildcat 310n V-8 (300 cu in) 2 Speed Automatic Runs Fast and very well 360-624-6534

I still run original Marvel carbs in all but my 13 Buick which had a Schebler carb. I now run a BB1 so I can reliably tour in this car. In my other Buicks, I use full choke to start & usually need to keep the choke out 1/3 to 1/2 until the engine warms up. This is seems to be the norm for Buicks with a working heat riser. The most common cause of Marvel carb problems seems to be the need to replace the 80 year old cork float to maintain the correct fuel level so the main jet works properly. You can use Super Glue & wine corks to make a big enough replacement cork to fit in the float bowl. Make it as big as possible to last longer. Coating the cork is not necessary, & will gum up everything when the ethanol additives in modern gas dissolve the coating. Also, the main jet can develop small cracks that can easily be soldered to solve the problem. Just run a small drill bit through the jet after soldering to make sure the solder does not restrict flow. The alternative is to flip the intake manifold and use a Rochester carb from a "stovebolt six" GM engine. There are several models of this carb...with and without automatic choke. My son is considering doing this on his 29 Buick. If you keep all the original parts, this modification can easily be reversed for show cars.

I agree with Derek. 1935 BUICK Series 50 Dsp/HP Eng ............ ......... ......... .Fair... Good ... Exc Show Loan SEDAN 1934-35 235/88 8C 7,500 12,000 18,000 23,000 11,000 BUSINESS COUPE 1934-38C 8,000 13,000 21,000 26,000 11,500 VICTORIA COUPE 1934-35 10,000 15,000 22,500 29,000 13,500 SPORT COUPE RS 1934-35 11,000 17,000 25,000 30,000 15,500 CONVERTIBLE COUPE 1934- 20,000 31,000 45,000 51,000 28,000

Thanks Dave. Do you have a manual that shows how this clutch goes together?

Try this site: http://www.zenithfuelsystems.com/updraft_267ec.htm

What a great thread.... Well, I guess I am not that imaginative either because I typically refer to my cars by their year of manufacture...the 13 or the 31, etc. But my wife instantly came up with a nickname for my 15 Buick speedster project when I decided on the paint scheme. One of my more artistic car buddies insisted that a speedster should be painted a flashy color. I wanted to make a speedster like a 16 - 18 year old kid would do to the old family car with limited $$ to spend. So the nickel plated parts would simply be painted rather than re-plated. So when I decided to paint it Dodge Viper yellow with a painted black radiator shell, windshield frame, & black straps on the round rear mounted gas tank..... she named it the "Bumble Buick".

One of my Buick buddies needs to replace a rear hub to get his car back on the road. It is an eight bolt hub, the OD where it rests against the spokes is 9", the width from the spokes to the outer end of the hub cap threads is 3 3/4", and the OD of the hub cap threads is also 3 3/4". Attached photos should help with identification. Please email me directly if you have a spare. durcodude@comcast.net

You're right, it is much like battleship gray. Check out the attached photo & see if you can tell the difference between the color of the car & the running board.

Yeah.... review first, then edit.

Pete, Try this link for reference: http://www.manheimgold.com/car_lo.html

Pete, Since I know you are capable of doing most of the work yourself; I would say buy it for $2500 if you really want a good prewar Buick to drive wherever you want. But then, I am more than a little biased about prewar Buicks!

My 1931 50 (smallest) series has chrome headlight buckets. This leads me to believe that all 1931 models had chrome headlight buckets. My son's 116 (smallest) series 1929 has painted buckets, but I have seen the larger 121 & 129 series headlight buckets are all chrome plated. I can't put my hands on the documentation, but I recall the exterior plating on all the 1929 cars was chrome, while the door handles, window winders, & other interior hardware was still nickel plated.

Geeze, there must be some serious editing going on....

I believe you are correct (Leif? You really need to sign your posts). Even as late as 1929 and even into the early 30s, the interior hardware was nickel while the exterior parts were chromed plated. I just don't recall when Buick started chrome plating everything inside & out.

Lamar, I have four prewar Buicks and still yearn for more. But my collection includes a different body style & engine for each. My collection includes spare engines and drive train parts for each car too! I see that although you do have several 1954 cars, they are all different models. I can testify that there are some real advantages in having interchangeable parts for your collection. I am running out of space for more cars because I have to stock so many different spare parts. Non-the-less, I am glad to see you have branched out with the Buick wagon.

John, That crank comes in very handy when working on your engine setting tappets, & timing etc. It would be a tough way to start a big heavy six or eight cylinder engine that way.

I suggest you move this post to the Buick Buy/Sell forum.

Byron, Sorry to chime in so late, but I just got back from vacation. I know of several 23-4 cylinder Buicks here in the Vancouver Wa area. Two belong to BCA PreWar Division officers. Dave Ebert, our membership chairman, also has all the manuals etc. Send me an email offine so I can forward some info for you. durcodude@comcast.net