Mark Shaw

Willie, I need one 24" with a rotating latch type lock. (See photo) Thanks for trying.

Very nice looking car! Congratulations.....you are getting closer to owning a prewar Buick.

Simplyconnected, I do know better than to use the circuit for trailer lights. That is why I didn't answer all your questions. I simply want to know if anyone on this forum has done this for their tow vehicle, and if there is a kit or instructions on how to do this for a stock 2005 Chevy Silverado. I fully expect to run a dedicated heavy wire from the battery or alternator, I just want to know what other devices I need to prevent problems.

I already have a dedicated battery to run only my winch. I just want to know if there is a way to keep it charged from my tow vehicle's alternator.

Willy, Do your rims have tires mounted on them? If so, use the following example: For 34 X 4 tires...double the second number and subtract the total from the first number... you get 26" rims.

Some good advice here.... I once had a barn with a dirt floor & it was really bad for storing or working on cars. Asphalt is not much better for all the reasons previously listed. My shop has concrete with hydronic heat my son and I installed for about $350 with a used water heater PEX tubing and a little TACO recirculating pump. I did have a problem with my concrete contractor who didn't know how long it would take to cure with the plastic vapor barrier I laid down under the hog wire & PEX tubing. Due to the longer cure time and freezing weather when poured, the surface spauled & required resurfacing. Barry noted the solution is to lay down a sand bed so the water can drain. I used a light colored floor coating to eliminate dust and make it easy to clean up drips & spills. It sure brightened up my shop. If you want to store cars above freezing during the winter, go with hydronic heat too... Concrete is the best way to go...no contest!

So far, I use a separate battery charger to charge my trailer winch battery. I would prefer to wire it into the trailer wiring that plugs into my tow vehicle, but I suspect it could overload the wiring in my 2005 Chevy Silverado. I am sure there is a way to limit the charging rate so it will keep the trailer battery charged while towing. Does somebody offer a kit for this?

For me too.

Could be true. I have seen others comment on this problem. I have the same carb on my 13 Buick and I always shut off the gas when parked. The metal seated needle valve will leak due to rattling in the seat for so many years. Unless your rebuilder changed the needle & seat, you will have a leaker. The float just doesn't push hard enough to seal drop tight. You might try using some fine valve grinding compound to mate the needle and seat for a better seal. Harold Sharon (no longer with us) used to modify needle valves with a Viton cone tip to provide positive shut off. I don't know of anyone doing this now.

Taco, Glad you are making progress. Fuel consumption generally is not very good for any updraft carburetor. The Marvel is worse than others with finer adjustability. Running a little rich is not necessarily a bad thing when you consider the consequences of running lean. I am guessing my buicks get around 12 mpg overall. Most of my driving has been short trips. Last year, I drove my 24 Master Buick truck 180 miles from Vancouver to Seattle Washington and calculated just over 14 mpg with almost all highway driving. Some Buick owners use a spare downdraft set up with a Rochester downdraft carburetor from a 50s Chevrolet six cylinder for better economy on the highway. It is a simple conversion to flip the intake manifold & set it up either way.

Current bid is $125. This will be a bragan for somebody.

Current bid is $125. This will be a real bargan for somebody.

I just love seeing Dave Corbin doing his thing for all of us Buick nuts.... Way to go Dave... What would we do without you? THANKS!

I "rescued" this Buick wheel from being junked last week, and would like it to go to a good Buick home. It is 24 5/8" O.D. and still has the king pin & hub in it. The center of the brass knock-off nut has the original Buick script. I will take offers from anyone who can use it on a Buick. Please email directly to durcodude@comcast.net The highest bidder will pay only actual shipping from Vancouver, WA 98686

I "rescued" this wheel from being junked last week, and would like it to go to a good Buick home. It is 24 5/8" O.D. and still has the king pin & hub in it. The center of the brass knock-off nut has the original Buick script. I will take offers from anyone who can use it on a Buick. Please email directly to durcodude@comcast.net The highest bidder will pay only actual shipping from Vancouver, WA 98686

If interested, please send offer to durcodude@comcast.net I will accept the best offer in the next couple of weeks. You pay actual shipping from Vancouver, Wa 98686

I will take the best offer within the next week or so... You pay actual shipping from Vancouver, WA 98686.. If interested, please email offer to durcodude@comcast.net

I hereby offer another opinion: Completely disassemble & clean all leaves. Use "Slip-Plate" Graphite dry film lubricant (special spray paint you can get from your John Deere dealer). Reassemble and use super thin body filler or just repaint the exposed surfaces of the leaves to fill imperfections and sand down to achieve a smooth surface. The dry lubricant will make your springs work better where it counts...between the leaves.

My list of parts I need are as follows: -centre caps for ralley rims (5) -front emblem on front bumper between grills -chrome headlight covers (4) -OR a complete car for parts. Please contact greg at 1-905-843-9332 or email me at... rcarson.42@hotmail.com Thank You Greg Carson Toronto, Canada

Roxanna, This "Highwheeler" is more of a Horseless Carriage Club vehicle. These are very rare and not too user friendly for touring because they only go 15 to 20 MPH when they are running good. Fine for parades and museums. I suggest you post this on the HCCA site for more info. http://www.hcca.org/

Go the the Buick forum. Just read the top instructions first.

Rookie, Just about any clean oil, gear lube or grease is better than the old stuff still in your car. There are lots of opinions about lubricants. Do a search on this forum and be prepared to read lots of comments. Just make sure you change it every year in the fall before you store the car for the winter. I use regular 30wt non-detergent oil (Others will post the benefits of detergent oils here as there have been several opinions on the subject. I believe it is OK for fresh rebuilt engines.). My opinion is that in old engines detergent oils can loosen deposits that are not adequately removed by the old style partial filtering systems. Some cars don't even have oil filters. I use 250WT pure mineral oil for all my transmissions and rear ends. It will not harm "yellow metals" in the older transmissions and the high viscosity helps with faster and smoother shifting. White, Green, Purple, or any other color grease will work to lube your car. I use a good quality general purpose grease in a pneumatic gun that makes the job much easier. You will have to use a Zirk adapter in a modern gun if you have the two pin style fittings.

I am not in Indiana, but what are the questions?

All my buicks work the way you were told. Pull down to retard and up to advance.

Just a couple of suggestions: Get a good car alarm installed on open trailerd cars. Contact a local Boy Scout Troop and offer a donation for a couple of scouts to stay overnight (with an adult) to patrol the parking lot. I have used local BSA troops to do this for my tours. They are always looking for donations and are usually glad to do a "campout" to raise $$.