charlier

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ron Green</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I recently picked up a Reese hitch and it said made in China and a Draw-Tite was made in the USA. I did notice that these companies intermix their products? Another conglomerate in the making and probably soon to be all from overseas. </div></div> After reading your last post, I checked out the tow equipment components on my trailer. It seems that the various towing components are either Draw-Tite or Reese. I agree with you that it appears that these companies intermix their products. In some cases, they share the same product numbers for each of the two brands.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ron Green</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Charlie, Thanks for the link / picture. I like the theory with the combination unit especially since there are actually 2 sway bars. I am not a Reese hitch fan as much of their stuff now is made in China, and I don't trust Chinese metal especially wheel bearings (short life). Draw-Tite which I like doesn't offer the this type sway bar but probably will in the near future. </div></div> Ron, your post got me thinking that I thought I saw somewhere that both Draw-Tite and Reese were owned/operated by the same parent company. After a little internet searching guess what? Some of the biggest names in towing (ie Draw-Tite, Reese, Tekonsha and others) are all part of the Cequent Group of Companies. http://www.cequentgroup.com/ After finding that out it made sense that there appears to be product overlap in the Draw-Tite & Reese Towing product lines (ie some of there products look IDENTICAL). That being the case, one has to wonder exactly where both product lines are manufactured and what raw materials are being used. BTW, the Cequent Group web site has links to all their other various companies' web sites. Might be worth bookmarking that site for future reference for towing accessories, supplies, etc.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ron Green</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I was unaware that anyone made a combination sway bar and load distribution bars? I have only seen the 2 distribution load bars that shift the weight onto the front truck wheels and the single sway bar that has a lever adjustment (tight / lose) that connects the trailer to the hitch to prevent swaying. </div></div> Ron, I have one of these combination units that I use with my Toyota 4Runner SUV & 20ft enclosed car trailer combination. This combination weight distributing and sway control unit is great and it does the job VERY Well. More info and a photo can be found near the bottom of this thread: http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/500595/fpart/3 FYI, the link I put in the other thread to the reese-hitches web site is not the company I purchased it from. I purchased mine from the trailer dealer for a LOT less than this web site's price. Of course I purchased mine 4 years ago so maybe prices have changed.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: R W Burgess</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> That picture is fine, Charlie. I'd never seen a sway system like that. It's completely different from the old style Reese that I have. Wayne </div></div> I think I have seen some of the older style Reese systems that you are talking about. The design I have also handles very sharp turns and dips in road surfaces. That can come in handy.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: R W Burgess</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey Charlie, can you take a picture of your hitch equipment? I'm not sure some of us know exactly you have on the tow vehicle. Thanks, Wayne </div></div> Wayne, I do not have any photos of my hitch setup at this time. When I have an opportunity to take a picture, I will but it might be a while. Until then, the following link shows the setup I have. http://www.reese-hitches.com/products/Strait_Line_Weight_Distribution_Trunnion_Bar_Kitwith_Hitch_Bar,66084 The weight distributing hitch on the 4Runner came standard with the V8 model I purchased. This receiver is bolted to numerous places on the undercarriage/frame with some fairly beefy bolts.

I have a 20 ft, enclosed car trailer (~ 5200-5400 lbs loaded) that I tow with a Toyota 4Runner (body on frame SUV). The 4Runner came standard with a weight distributing hitch and I added sway control. The combination of the WD hitch & sway control make the 4Runner a competent tow vehicle even though it has a somwehat short wheelbase. I use a Prodigy brake controller which does an excellent job handling the braking duties. I agree with other's here that a longer wheelbase tow vehicle may be a better choice for towing longer, heavier trailers. One thing I have noticed in my travels is that there appears to be a fairly large number of longer wheel base trucks towing trailers that are not using the proper equipment (ie WD hitch & sway control) and/or are not loaded properly. Wish I had money for each one of these "big trucks" that I have seen on the roads that is sagging and swaying under the load of the trailers they are towing. I simply give them PLENTY of room because they are an accident waiting to happen that I want to avoid being involved in. FYI, I have always been told by every single person who tows that having the trailer brakes set properly and keeping them maintained is VERY IMPORTANT. Having a tow vehicle with good brakes is important but one should not rely on the tow vehicle brakes for stopping the trailer on a daily basis. That is what the trailer brakes are there for. Tow vehicle brakes should be able to handle stopping the trailer (in the event of a trailer brake failure) but that is all. BTW, when I am towing I get interesting reactions from professional truck drivers when they see my rig at turnpike plazas, etc. When I tell them I seldom feel a thing when I am passed by a tractor trailer they are amazed. They seemed shocked when I tell them I have encountered 40 mph cross-winds and have felt nothing more than a very gentle "nudge".

I realize that finding another vehicle of same vintage with the same seats is probably the easiest solution. The following might seem to be a strange suggestion but here goes.... Have you looked into the possibility of mounting the seats from the current vehicle in a newer one? Are the seat mounts drastically different? If needed, can a new mounting setup be constructed that will securely and safely hold the old seat in place in a newer vehicle? These questions might be best answered by Buick or other GM owners. Like I said, not the easiest solution but it might be an alternative to being homebound.

Steve, Thanks for the update on the use of Credit Cards when registering for a meet. It is nice to know that this form of payment will be an option for those members who want to use it in the not too distant future. Being in the IT field myself, I can understand that an undertaking like this involves technical challenges, costs (both developmental & on-going) and changes to the "back office" systems and procedures. Bringing all those facets together for something like this at a reasonable cost and timeframe is a challenge. Glad to hear the AACA is up to that challenge! Should be interesting to see the turn-out at the Cumberland Meet. I have been out in that area a few times in May for other car events. The weather can be a challenge due to it's unpredictability. It can be really beautiful when the weather is nice. Let's keep our fingers crossed that will be the case for this meet.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ron Green</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Charlie, the water (if any) goes in the bilge. The seats sit up a few inches from the bilge covered by a floorboard. If water starts shooting out of the floor shifter cut outs in the floor or you hear the fan blades making a funny noise (hitting water) and your automatic bilge pump didn't kick in the bucket may come in handy. </div></div> Ron, thanks for the explanation about how the bilge pumping system works. In my previous post I thought handing an unsuspecting passenger a big bucket before a ride on a body of water might be amusing (at least for the driver). After the shock wore off for the passenger, then the driver could explain how the bucket was not needed unless the bilge pump failed.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ron Green</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Also make sure you have a means of getting the trailer off the ground to change the tire. I have a 3 1/2 ton floor jack anchored down in the trailer. The jack or pull up blocks should be weight rated for both the trailer and its contents. Have adequate orange cones, signs something to alert approaching traffic. </div></div> Ron, when you say "pull up blocks" are you referring to pieces of wood that you simply drive the trailer's good tire up onto which raises the flat tire off the ground? A friend of mine told me that method is the easiest and safest way to change a trailer flat tire. Obviously the wood must be strong enough and wide enough to provide a stable surface for the trailer and it's contents. The wood is also lighter than a HD Floor jack and has multiple other uses. I have used this wood to support my ramp door when the ground was uneven any number of times. Also used it to provide support for the hitch jack on soggy ground. I have my trailer spare tire mounted on an inside wall of the trailer next to the curbside door right above the winch/interior light battery. This way I do not have any access problems getting to the spare when needed.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ron Green</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I need to check out the bilge pumps, doors and door seals for leaks since all are new. It is much more enjoyable when you can scare the $@#% out of someone that hasn't experienced vehicular buoyancy. </div></div> Ron, Do you by chance hand new passengers a BIG bucket and say to them "just in case we take on a little water"???

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: R W Burgess</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Fran, it may be too late at this point for some upcoming meets, but it sounds like the registration forms to be sent back to the meet host region needs to have some larger print that denotes this rules change. Wayne </div></div> I just registered for the Cumberland Meet last night. After printing out and signing the form I noticed a note about fire extinguishers on the form. I agree with you that the size of the print could be enlarged and <span style="font-weight: bold">BOLD Print</span> could be used as needed. I also agree that all paperwork (either from on-line or US mail registration) for meets in 2008 should have the enlarged print on the fire extinguisher size/change. Personally, I started carrying the new spec fire extinguisher last year (2007). One less thing to remember/think about this year.

Just wondering, when people use the phrase "xxxx number of requests mailed out" does that mean that those are responses to requests for cards from the AACA magazine postcards? The reason I ask is that the "xxxx" number is potentially lower than the actual number. I say that because it does not include those members who register for AACA events on-line and do not use the postcards from the magazine. Granted, the number of members using on-line registration is probably small compared to the traditional postcard/mail way of doing it. That brings up another question maybe Steve M. or some chapter/region people can address. Last night I registered on-line for the Cumberland Meet (add 1 more car to the numbers). I noticed that the on-line registration still does not include the ability to pay using a credit card. Is there a timetable for when paying with a credit card (on-line) will be another alternative to printing out the card and mailing a check???? I realize the chapter/region/national setup of the AACA complicates on-line payment for meets as well as the potential costs involved with this payment option. IIRC, I asked this same question 2-3 years ago when I first started entering AACA Meets. Just wondering what the current status of this payment option is and when AACA members might see it become a reality??

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shop Rat</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: R W Burgess</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ron, well we certainly have a good list to start with. I'm wondering where you are from Charlie? I know I'll be putting on publications in 2009, and not knowing what Ron is doing, maybe we need a new leader for a seminar like this? Wayne </div></div> Wayne, I am located on near Reading, PA. (about 60 miles from Philly). Unfortunately, Jan-March is not a good time for me to be away from the office which is why I have not attended the Philly event. I also have far fewer miles towing than many others here or in the AACA. One of those people are probably far better qualified than myself to do a seminar. I would be more than happy to pass along some of what I have learned if needed. Before I purchased my tow vehicle and trailer I was blessed to have a friend with many years of towing experience that passed on his knowledge to me. He helped me design my trailer and gave me 3-4 hours of on the road training when I brought the trailer home from out of state. He also made himself available for any questions I had after my trailer purchase. I have told him a numerous occassions that he should start a company to teach people how to purchase trailers and Tow SAFELY. Maybe someday he will. Another AACA member has a web site with a lot of trailering tips. Some of the tips one this site are from my friend. http://www.monmouth.com/user_pages/friartuck/lincoln/trailer/trailer.html I tracked down a photo of my parallel parking job I mentioned in my previous post: http://www.gti16v.com/miscpics/ppark2.jpg BTW, you cannot tell from this photo but there is a jetski testing tank maybe 5-6 feet behind my trailer. Another item fopr the list... 28. How to use reflective tape to improve visibility of your trailer. Be advised that the tape on my trailer in the above photo is not applied to commercial regulations. I went a little overboard.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: R W Burgess</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey! Hey! I feel a Philly seminar coming on!!!! This is a very important subject that should certainly be covered somewhere. Subjects covered: 1.Trailer hitches available and the differences in each 2.Preloading of trailer hitch 3.Proper straps and ratchets 4.Proper placement of vehicle on trailer 5.Proper tie down of vehicle 6.Tires and good inflation practices 7.Equipment security 8.Purchasing of tow vehicles and the options necessary 9.Anything else Ron Green??? Ron has graciously accepted the moderator job for this subject next year. Wayne * * </div></div> Here are a few more... 10. Sway control, what is it and why you need it. 11. Purchasing a trailer (including custom features) 12. Trailer modifications 13. Brake Controllers (buying one and using it) 14. Trailer Maintenance 15. Towing Mirror Options and their proper use If there was only more space at some of the larger meets a car trailer rodeo/hands on trailer session might be something to consider. Maybe this activity could be done at the chapter and/or Region level instead of meets. Maybe in addition to a seminar at Philly, this information could also be published in the AACA magazine as a multi-part series??? That way many, many, more AACA members could benefit from this other than those who are able to attend a seminar. If publishing this information in the magazine is not possible then what about putting it on the AACA web site?? BTW, if anyone really wants some fun they should get their trailer inspected at my local inspection station. At this facility one has to back their trailer uphill, around the side of the building between the building and the owners racing rig. The last time I was inspected there I had to do all that and parallel park behind the racing rig. The look on the staff's face when they came in the next morning and saw where I parked was priceless.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Curti</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think the guy contrived this and took these pictures just to get people excited. It certinly has worked! </div></div> I do agree with you to a certain extent. This photo appears to be an extreme example. Unfortunately, I have seen many, many, other photos similar in nature to this one. That leads me to believe that there are actually people out there that tow trailers that are simply unsafe. Speaking about towing in general, here is a somewhat different setup for towing. Do have to wonder how much re-enforcement is needed to use this setup.

No doubt hitting different animals with a vehicle can damage the vehicle and endanger it's occupants. Let's just say here where I live, some deer get to be rather large since there is no hunting allowed. The only predators are vehicles. When I had my last "close encounter" with one of these deer, the deer in question could have easily cleared the front bumper and hood on my vehicle. The thing that concered me most was I was driving my somewhat taller & larger tow vehicle and not my daily commuter car. Ever since that time, I keep to the speed limit on the road near my house which tends to frustrate those behind me that want to drive 20-30 mph over the posted speed limit. I was at a car show once and saw a vehicle that had hit an opossum or beaver at highway speed. That strike did considerable body damage and some mechanical damage to the vehicle especially considering the relatively small size of the animal. Lucky for the owner that he was able to repair the damage enough to make it back home. While, no doubt, the weight of the animal struck does matter, the speed, size and shape of the vehicle also comes into play.

I first saw these photos maybe 9 months ago and they still make me think "What was he thinking?". Unfortunately, there are a LOT of people out there who lack the knowledge or simply do not care to tow properly and safely. These people think that exceeding the tow vehicle manufacturer's recommendations by 1,000 to 2,000 pounds is no problem. Or, they do not want to spend the money on sway control. They subscribe to the notion that because they towed like that once it is okay. Personally, I think these people have more luck than brains. Sad part is, they tell others on the internet and some of those other people believe them which perpetuates this unsafe towing. Anyway, these photos are FUNNY and are prime examples of how not to do it.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Johnpaul Ragusa</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ebay is about as true a reflection of car values as "Star Trek" is to space travel. People's asking prices on Ebay are usually way over value. The bought a car for $8k, put $50k into it and now want $75 so they get their money back and a little something for their troubles. Problem is the car is worth $40k. </div></div> hahahaha I have to start quoteing you on your Ebay/Star Trek analogy. I have SO MANY examples of my EBay experiences that prove what you said I could write a book. Everything from knowingly mis-representing cars and part to sellers that use shill bidders to bump up the price on their items. "Buyer Beware" applies to Ebay just like any other purchase one makes.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Johnpaul Ragusa</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ebay is about as true a reflection of car values as "Star Trek" is to space travel. People's asking prices on Ebay are usually way over value. The bought a car for $8k, put $50k into it and now want $75 so they get their money back and a little something for their troubles. Problem is the car is worth $40k. </div></div> hahahaha I have to start quoteing you on your Ebay/Star Trek analogy. I have SO MANY examples of my EBay experiences that prove what you said I could write a book. Everything from knowingly mis-representing cars and part to sellers that use shill bidders to bump up the price on their items. "Buyer Beware" applies to Ebay just like any other purchase one makes.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sorry. Should be 17-19, with the show dates being Friday and Saturday. </div></div> Thank you very much for clearing that up for everyone.

Just received the March/April 2008 Antique Automobile Magazine. I noticed in the Calendar of Events that the 2009 GN looks like it will be a Dual Meet in conjunction with the Central Fall Meet. Have a question about the dates published in the magazine. I noticed the Grand National's date is listed as September 17, 2009 (Thursday) and the Fall Meet is September 18, 2009 (Friday). Those days of the week seem a little odd for AACA Car Show events. Could this be a mis-print or are these events really taking place on a Thursday and Friday? I can think of a few reasons for the unusal days of the week such as providing Saturday & Sunday as travel days home or possibly these dates are the only ones available at the facility where the events are being held. Anyone else have any thoughts or further information?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bhigdog</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I kept wondering why the cost of diesel fuel went so high. I think I got it figured out. My diesel truck gets 25% better milage than my gasser did. So the oil companies raised the price of diesel till it is 25% more than gasoline thus insuring that EVERYONE is getting bent over. </div></div> Here in PA for a gallon of diesel fuel we pay 63.6 cents in state and federal taxes. A gallon of gasoline is taxed at 50.7 cents. So, thanks to taxes, diesel is 12.9 cents per gallon more just due to taxes. http://www.api.org/statistics/fueltaxes/upload/GAS_TAX_MAP_JANUARY_2008-2.pdf http://www.api.org/statistics/fueltaxes/upload/DIESEL_TAX_MAP_JANUARY_2008.pdf The following is another interesting web site that has information about the cost components of gasoline and diesel and other interesting information. http://tonto.eia.doe.gov/oog/info/gdu/gasdiesel.asp Interesting information on this web site about what petroleum products are made from a 42 gallon barrel of crude oil and in what quantities. If the various automakers follow thru with their plans to offer more vehicles with diesel engines one has to wonder how refineries will increase production of diesel fuel. Chances are, they may not be able to so. With increased demand and supply that cannot grow prices have only one direction to go. Not a pretty picture for diesel owners. Hopefully that will not happen. DanaJ, with a NG vehicle is there more or less concern when it comes to a traffic accident? What about a leak in the system when the vehicle is inside a garage at home or parking structure? Also have to wonder about driving a vehicle like yours through tunnels which have restrictions regarding flammable/explosive materials. I am sure you probably looked into all these issues before purchasing your vehicle. Would be interesting to see what you found out.