groselle

Paul, I don't think I suggested in my web site that the rear axle could be left in place. I did the whole torque ball replacement with the engine and transmission out of the car. You will have to find some way of disconnecting the torque tube from the torque ball. I don't know the details of the 1938 Buicks, but on my '36 it uses leaf springs in the rear and it would be pretty easy to just remove the U-bolts and slide the axle back 6" (probably have to disconnect the brake hose too). As far as the "retainer" goes, that's the green piece in the picture you linked to. And yes it will just barely fit over that flange. I don't know how far down the tube it will slide, but you would still need to seperate the tube from the ball to put the new seal in (it's a ring that fits between the ball and the retainer and you can get it from Bobs Automobilia). The small shaft coming out the back of the transmission is splined on the inside. The torque ball assembly slides over this little shaft and the drive shaft in the torque tube slides into it. The movement between the drive shaft (inside the tube) and the output shaft on the transmission is taken up by a traditional U-joint at the back of the transmission (just before that little shaft). The movement between the outer torque tube and the transmission housing is taken up by the torque ball. I know this probably isn't making much sense. I was really intimidated by the whole idea before I disassembled it. Once I did that I found it was really a pretty simple setup. I think if you can figure out how to slide the rear axle back about 6 inches, you'll find it's not nearly as complex as you think. I'll be glad to help any way I can. Greg

Welcome to the forum! There should be a plate on the passenger side of the firewall that will give you all the information. I've attached a photo of what my 36 Soecial looks like. You can see the details of my own restoration at the link below.

Jeff, There is a seal that mount to the backing plate for the rear wheels. It's essentially a big felt donut that fits into metal frame. Noone of the parts vendors seem to have them and I have only seen 1 pair on eBay over the last few years. I bought some felt from McMaster Carr and did my best to make the felt donuts myself before I bought the pair off eBay. Here's a picture of my old one: Here's the removed back plate. The clean area is where the seal mounted. Hope this helps.

My dad just acquired an old engine that he was told came from a 1919 Chevrolet. The block has a number A22A-606 and the head is numbered A22A-605B. It has a place above the block number that looks like it should have a serial number stamped on it, but there are no numbers (these are both by the valve push rods). The engine is on its side so I don't know if there are other numbers on that side. Any information as to whether or not this really is what we were told would be appreciated. Thanks.

Jeff, Drop me a line at gtroselle@earthlink.net. I'd be interested in talking about this car.

I think JD pretty much covered the basics. The only thing that I would add is that it may be necessary to put the bell housing on first. On my 1936 Special the bell housing has to be installed before attaching the flywheel. This is because the two upper most bolts are covered by the flywheel and can't be installed if it's there first. Of course, this make it much more difficult to install the clutch because you don't have alot of room to work in and the flywheel has to be rotated to get at all of the clutch bolts. Like I said this is for the '36 and I don't know if it's the same on a '38 or not. Greg

I took a peek inside the steering gear box for my 1936 special and it appears to be pretty much empty. Anyone have any idea what kind of lubricant goes in there? Thanks in advance.

Please contact me at gtroselle@earthlink.net in regards to some of these parts. Thanks.

Where are you located and what make is the chassis. I didn't see any reference to make or model.

Where is the engine located and is it the 233 or 320 CI version.

I've just disassembled the engine on my 1936 special. I found these mysterious springs on every intake valve and was wondering if they are perhaps valve stem seals? Of course, they would have been installed later.

Bob, The louvered vents on my '36 go to the rear of the engine. The air cleaner should also come apart easily. Mine is the heavy duty type. It is held in place by a long bolt with a wing nut type of head. You loosen this bolt to remove the air cleaner from the car. If the bolt is completely loosend the canister opens up and the copper mesh can be removed (although it's still in a metal carrier frame). You may have a "normal" air cleaner so I've attached a picture of what the heavy duty type look like: Hope this helps. Greg

Just for everyone's knowledge, I managed to get the temperature sensor out of the head. It should have just pulled straight out once the nut holding it in was removed. However, I guess 70 years on sitting in the cooling jacket got it crusted in. It just took a little wiggling with some needle nose pliers and out it came. Here's a picture of what came out: 36 Temp Sensor

Welcome to the forum. I have a 1936 40 Sedan. The fuse location depends on whether your car is an early or late production. The early production cars have an in-line fuse located near the headlight switch. The later production cars (like mine) have a fuse mounted directly on the headlight switch. It should be on the right hand side near the rear of the switch. Hope this helps. Greg

I've finally gotten to the point where I can do some serious work on my 1936 special. This weekend I pulled the head to have a peak inside the engine. My biggest problem is how do you remove the temperature sensor from the head. There is a square headed bolt that holds the probe into the head. That came off no problem but I can't figure out how to get the sensor out. Actually this is more of a "lessons learned" post because I already ended up breaking the tube off in my attempts. So hopefully other can benefit from my misfortune. However, even with the tube broken off I'm still unable to get the sensor piece out of the head. Thanks in advance.

Can anybody out there transport a 1935 IHC Pickup from the Seattle area to SE New Mexico (Albuquerque would be fine too)? It doesn't run so it would have to be winched onto a trailer.

The latest Bugle has an ad from Harnesses Unlimited. It gives an address but no phone number: P.O. Box 435, Wayne, PA 19087. I'll be interested in what you find out. I'm also in the process of restoring a 1936 Model 41.

I have both a Buick Master Parts list and Hollander Interchange manual covering those years. The Master Parts list shows that generator 956-B1 only fits 1933 (all series). The Hollander interchange manual gives the same information, except that it also says to "see #403", which is the generator for the 1934-35 Series 50, 60, 80. That one has the number 956-H1. Hope this helps.

Mike & Nancy, oops, my mistake. It was indeed the March issue. Thanks, Greg

Got my April issue of the Bugle today. Unfortunately only the paper cover sheet arrived without the magazine inside! I guess I'll try and track down the post man tomorrow.

I just put a 1939 Nash Lafayette Stromberg EE-1 Carb on eBay at no reserve: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

I just listed a Stromberg EE-1 Model 97 Carb for 1936, 1937, 1938 Ford flatheads: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...IT&rd=1

I just listed a Stromberg EE-1 Model 97 Carb for 1936, 1937, 1938 Ford flatheads: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

I just put a 1939 Nash Lafayette Stromberg EE-1 Carb on eBay at no rserve: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

Just got mine (AACA) today in beautiful Las Vegas, NV