groselle

My '36 Special came with one.

Definitely agree there. I also frequent one of the Model T sites and they can be a really nasty bunch.

Here you go. These are from my 1936 Special. This is the left side gravel shield. It is 18" tall and 10 7/8" at the bottom. If you like I could trace it on a piece of paper and send it to you. Greg

Thanks for the insights. Unfortunately, the ends of the clip were stuck inside the handle and no amount of prying could free them. In the end I used a hacksaw and carefully sawed through the back of the clip and then pried it out.

Any hints on removing the window crank handle from a 1936. The problem is that the "turnouts" on the clip have broken off so there is nothing for the clip removal tool to push on. The ends of the clip are too snug in the slot to be removed with a small screwdriver.

Indeed alive and well. Just not having alot of time to work on the Buick or update the website. I've also been distracted by a couple of Model T's

You can check out my much out dated blog. I'm restoring a 1936 Series 40 and have posted many photos. I haven't updated it in quite a while though. The link is in my signature below.

I'm looking for a decent set of running boards for a 1936 Special (4 door). I want the actual running boards and not the mats. The ones on the car I'm restoring have hit the curb a few too may times. Alternatively does anyone know a good body shop in the Midland/Odessa, Lubbock, El Paso area? I think the right person could fix them, but they are beyond my ability. Thanks.

Here's a picture I took of the firewall on my 1936 model 40 before I completely disassembled it. At the time I added the notes. I think the horn relay attaches inside just above the starter switch label box. You can see the two nuts that attach it. Hope this helps.

I see from the scan of the parts book that a 3.9:1 ring gear was available for the 1936 series 40. It's called a high speed job. Does anyone know anything about these?

As far as I know that is an oil line for oiling the throwout bearing. It requires an occasional drop or two of machine oil.

Just saw this on Craigslist: 1936 Buick Fenders and Trunk

From my Buick Master Parts List for Chassis Parts: Group 8.130 FENDER, Front (Prime Finish) Part # 1293790 1936 -40 (Right) Part # 1293791 1936 -40 (Left) Part # 1293792 1936 -40 (With fender well) (Right) Part # 1293793 1936 -40 (With fender well) (Left) So it appears that there was only one size fender for the Series 40 regardless of number of doors. FYI - the price of the fenders was $23 without the fender well and $26.50 with it.

I believe the front had a rubber floor mat, whereas there was carpet on the rear floor.

I replaced all of the front suspension bushings and pins on my '36 last year. If I remember correctly all of the bushings were easy to press in. Seems like I removed the old ones by putting a bolt through a socket that was just larger than the bushing one on side and another socket large enough to ride over the bshing on the other. The new bushings do ned to be reemed to size. The only place in town here that did it was the local alignment shop. Seems like it cost $10 for each side for the kingpins.

I'm in the process of replacing the wood in the front doors of my 1936 Special. I have all of the old wood out and a new set from David Entler. However, I'm curious how to handle the top of the door. There are two bolts that attach the top of the door to the wood. The only problem is that the heads of these bolt are underneath an overlapping piece of the door. I've attached a few pictures. Anyone have ideas as to how to get the old blts out and reinstalled? I could bend the top of the door all the way flat but that seems excessive. Any ideas would be appeciated. Thanks in advance.

Here's pictures of a Ranger radio

There were two options for radios in the 1936 Buick. The Master was the lesser option it had the radio and speaker all contained in a single unit. The Ranger was the upscale option it had a large speaker that was separate from the radio box. The speaker mounted on the firewall in the center of the car and the radio box mounted on the firewall by the parking brake. I've attached a picture of the two different heads from the sales brochure. I have a Ranger radio (not installed) in my garage. I'll post some pictures of it later. Greg

It doesn't appear to be for a 1936. I've attached a couple of photos of the mounts for my 1936. Hope this helps.

Mark, Thanks for the suggestion. I had forgotten about McMaster-Carr. Unfortunately they don't have anything like I need. I attached a few pictures below. Its the brass piece I need the bolt is fine. You can see the problem crack in the last image. I talked to the local machine shop and they could do it except the have no way to cut the female inverted flare port. I may have to try and come up with my own adapter.

After 73 years of faithful service the banjo fitting for the rear wheel cylinder on my '36 Special has had enough. I've been to the local hydraulic shop, machine shop and parts store and they all throw their hands up. Any ideas/suggestions for a replacement. Thanks in advance

Lets see if I can actually get the pictures attached.

Pete, I'm currently restoring a 4 door 1936 Special. Unfortunately, my headliner is long gone so I can't answer your first question but I'll take a stab at the second one. For the 1936 Specials there were two different air cleaners offered. The "regular" one that just sat on top of the carburator and a "heavy duty" version that was on cars sold in dusty environments. My car originated in Arizona so it has the "heavy duty" version. These attached extended to the front of the engine where there is an "L" bracket that attached to the front two left head bolts. I've attached some pictures. You can also see that cars with a heavy duty air cleaner had a bent cowl to radiator rod. I believe on the cars with normal air cleaners that both of the rods were straight. [img:left]http://home.earthlink.net/~36buick/images/AirC_1.JPG [img:left]http://home.earthlink.net/~36buick/images/AirC_2.JPG [img:left]http://home.earthlink.net/~36buick/images/AirC_3.JPG

There is no VIN in the modern sense on a 1936 Buick. The number on your title is likely either the engine number or a frame number. The engine number is stamped on the passenger side of the block near the front. On mine it is just in front of the push rod cover. The frame number is located on a plate riveted to the frame also on the passenger side just behind the front wheel. Depending on the condition of the car you may have to do some grease scraping to find the numbers.

On my 1936 Special the entire body was painted the same color and the wheel wells and a spot on the side of the cowl were "blacked out". It really looks like someone just took a sponge or brush and dabbed black paint over the body color.