groselle

Thanks, I wasn't sure if it went at the top or bottom of the bumper.

It's time for me to spruce up the rear bumper brackets and the gravel shield on my 36 sedan. Does anyone know what color the gravel shield should be painted? I'm assuming it's black or body color. I'm leaning towards a semi gloss black.

I finally had time to get out to the garage. I've attached several closeups of the tie down loops. The set nearest the trunk lid were fairly corroded and have been covered with a bed liner style paint. Both sets of loops are the same size and I also posted close up of the one behind the seat. The loops are 20 inches apart center-to-center in both sets. Individual loops are 2.5 inches total length and a litttle over 2 inches center-to-center of the screw holes. There is also a picture of a part number although it does not appear to be a standard Buick number. Hope this helps and let me know if you need any other pictures. Greg

Paul, Sorry for the delay. I was on honey-do duty today delivering an equipment trailer to a church girls camp where my wife is one of the leaders. Didn't realize it included unloading said trailer and setting up numerous tents. I just barely got home. I'll post pictures and measurements of the loops tomorrow when ive got better light. Greg

Here's the trunk my in my 36 sedan with sidemounts. It does not have the wooden shelf. As far as I know this original. I'm not sure why it doesn't go all the way to the right edge. It's not shifted too far to the left because the slots for the tie down loops are in place.

Tom, I'm quite interested in the SS trim info as well. I'm to the point where I could get it installed. I'm curious as to what kind of clips you're using. If I remember correctly myu old trim was attached with the kind that are a flat metal tab which goes through a slit in the running board and fenders and then is twisted to hold the trim in place. Greg

I was about to ask the same question. If prices just keep going up I may pull out the original trim strips and see if they can't be hammered out to look decent. Greg

Tom, I looked a replacing the firewall pad a few years ago as well. I remember the pads at the time being in the low 200's but didn't get one at the time. Not sure why the prices jumped so much. I've done all the painting on my car. This is the first time I've painted one. It looks good from 20 feet which is fine with me. I want a driver not a show car. The biggest thing I learned was to be patient. The first coat or two wont look that great. The depth of color comes after several coats. Every time I got in trouble was when I thought I'd just hurry it along. All that did was guarantee runs. In the end even with the flaws it's nice to look at and think wow I did that. Greg

From what I've heard the firewall covers sold by the vendors are well done, as Tom said, and are made of ABS plastic. My main driver for doing it myself was cost as the current price from the vendors is around $325. In the end this method cost me $35 and 4 or 5 hours of time. Plus I enjoy trying to do stuff like this myself. Greg

Here's an update on the firewall pad. It didn't take much to get it formed correctly then I cut holes for the bolts, wires, etc. The cardboard is pretty tough so I drilled the holes using some forstner bits. Once that was done I gave it a coat of paint for protection. Then it was off to the upholsterer to have some piping sewn around the bottom half just like the original. When I went to install it last fall it turns out the particle board piece that goes between the new cover and the firewall had relaxed a bit. The original bolts were too short to attach it to the firewall, except for two of them. Then winter set in and nothing has happened until today. I bought some long carriage bolts and installed them all in the pad and started tightening them. I figure I'll slowly tighten them over the next month or so to reform the particle board to the firewall. Then I can reinstall the original bolts. Below are pictures of the finished product before and after installation.

Rod, My 36 Model 40 does something similar. It will start just fine and then I drive it around for 10 or 15 minutes until it gets up to normal operating temperature. If I shut it off at that point I can't get it to restart. The bendix engages but the starter won't turn, almost like the battery is dead. It can be push started with ease. If I let it cool down for a while then it will start right up again. Never have been able to figure it out. Greg

Here's an update on the firewall cover if anyone is interested. I was able to find a local upholstery shop that had a 4 by 5 foot piece of panel board for only $20. I used the "horse hair" pad to make a pattern to cut to panel board. Its a little big, but can be trimmed to size later. I used my band saw to cut the board which made a nice clean edge. I then clamped the panel board to the particle board piece with a bunch of woodworkers clamps. At the suggestion of the upholstery shop I spray it down with water. After sitting for a day I drilled holes in the panel for where the bolts are and fastened the two boards together with the original bolts and some new fender bolts on each side of the particle board as reinforcement. I'm going to keep spraying for a couple of days and let it set. There's one little trouble spot that is bulging up but I used a clamp to take care of it. Once it all sets I'll cut the holes for the wires, etc., paint it and take it to the upholsterer to have piping sewn on the edges like the original. It was alot cheap than the $260 ones made out of ABS that are sold by some of the vendors, plus its actually more original. Greg

gtroselle@earthlink.net Thanks

Rod, A couple of pictures would be great. I've got most of the pieces of mine but it would be good to see a complete one. Ive looked at the ABS ones but the $250+ price tag is a bit steep. I think I'll try and remake my own. Greg

Bob, thanks for the insight. The wood board is in pretty good shape. I just had never seen anything like it before. The panel board, however, has completely disintegrated. Did you have to form the panel board to the firewall or just bolt it in place? There are enough bolts that I was thinking I could get away with just "forcing" to conform with the bolts. Greg

Question for the 36 owners (and others). What sort of padding/cover do you have on the firewall? Mine seems to have three layers (see photo): outermost layer is a thin cardboard (like is used in door panels) that is partially edged with piping, middle layer is like particle board about 1/2 inch thick, last layer that is against the firewall is the usual jute type insulation I would expect. All three layers are formed to the bump in the firewall. It's the wood layer that has me confused. Any way what did your cars have and what are you using now. Thanks in advance. Greg

I've been looking for the same type of screws for my 36. There used to be a company in Iowa, which then moved to New Jersey that sold these. I'm told that they were wiped out by Hurricane Sandy. I did some searching on the internet and there are a number of marine/boat building suppliers that have stainless steel oval head straight slot screws that look like an exact match. I haven't ordered any yet so I can't say much more. Greg

Rod, I'm not anywhere near to putting in upholstery yet. I have all of the old panels that have the original stitching pattern. I'll probably just try to find a local person to do it. I'll be interested to see how hours turns out. Greg

Rod, I'm not anywhere near to putting in upholstery yet. I have all of the old panels that have the original stitching pattern. I'll probably just try to find a local person to do it. I'll be interested to see how hours turns out. Greg

Rod, Here's a couple of pictures of the tack strip from my car. It's about 1/2" wide. The strip fits over the panel before the upholstery is attached. Once its on the upholstery panel is pulled over the edge and onto the nails. The whole panel can then be tacked onto the wood. I haven't looked for a source of the strips yet. Greg

I picked a couple of wooden wheels today with Nash hubcaps. Also found a smaller hubcap. Just wondering what year they might be from Thanks.

Keith, sorry to not respond sooner I was leading a field trip all weekend. I believe that the bracket just uses regular bolts. The reason all of the holes are slotted is so that you can adjust the height of the fender. I put the fender on first then attached the sidemount hardware. You can then push the fender up and down to get it where you want it. The slotting in the other pieces let's you move the sides in and out as well.

Here's another one

Keith, Here's the best picture I have. It doesn't show the L part of the bracket but you can see that the "lips" on the big ovals point towards the rear. You can also see the fuel line routing through the oval.

Does anyone know if a radiator from a 1930 Dodge DA will fit a 1930 Chrysler 66? I know the shells are different but the radiator itself looks close to me.