groselle

Try McMaster-Karr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#) I used them to get the felt that went between the frame and inner front fender on my 1936 Special. The stuff I ordered was the plain back felt here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3541/=vvd6jl Their prices are decent and service is great. Greg

Rod, Here's a couple of more pictures from the other side and the interior without upholstery. There's not a whole lot of attachment points. As you can see there is a wooden "wedge" that sits under the arm rest. This piece is attached to the tar paper and then is attached to the fender well with a screw. There likely was a small hole at the top of your fender wells that a small wood screw was used to attach the arm rest. At the floor level towards the rear of the seat bench there is a metal tab attached to the floor about 3/8 inch from the fender well. The bottom of the upholstery piece slides between this and the fender well. I haven't seen any attachment points at the lower front. I think the piece is mostly held in by the seat cushion. It also doesn't appear to sit right on the fender well. I think there is and inch or so gap between the fender well and upholstery piece. The hole that looks like an attachment point is where a nail/rivet was used to attach the fabric to the tar paper. They're also used along the rear edge. Hope this helps. Greg

Rod, I've attached a picture from my 1936 Series 41. Mine are reasonably complete, but I don't know how much life is left in them. I worry that they won't survive recovering and use. Maybe you could use fiberglass and build one up using the old one as a base? Just a thought. Greg

I have one of the deluxe heaters. This is the only picture I have at the moment. I'll have to find the box it's in to take some more.

Shoot me a message at gtroselle"at"earthlink.net and we can sort out the details. Greg

Essox, Those trim rings are hard to find. I searched long and hard and finally found a NOS pair at a swap meet. Most of the ones you find are rusted. Even the good one in the picture has been repaired. How about $30 for the lock and the two trim rings including postage. Greg

I've got an extra glove box door with a lock and may have trim rings depending on what you mean. Are you needing the pieces that hold the glass in (see attached picture) or the chrome trim piece that goes around these?

I believe they are for a sedan. The rear window frame is 9.5 inches tall, the same as my sedan.

Cody - send me your mailing address at gtroselle@earthlink.net and I'll figure out the shipping. Greg

Hi Cody, they are still available.

Cleaning out the garage. I just listed some miscellaneous parts for sale in the Buy/Sell section. Let me know if you have any questions.

I have several bits and pieces for a 1936 Series 40: Front Splash pan $30 - this seems to be a hard to find piece that fits under the harmonic balancer. This one has seen better days but could be fixed with some TLC. Left side splash pan $20 Hood sides $50 (left) $40 (right) - the right side has some rust through Running boards $75 for each set - need some work Front and rear window garnish moldings $25 Front bumper $15 - needs help as you can see. Prices do not include shipping. I will ship from zip code 83440. Let me know if you have any questions.

Tom, There are actually two "brackets". The hood ornament is what keeps the hood from sliding forward, but there is also another bracket that slides into the chrome center strip. This second bracket is what holds the hood down. I've attached a picture that may help. On the right is the hood ornament mount and on the left is the hold down bracket. Unfortunately I don't have one. You might try Dave Tachney. Greg

Thanks for the reply. Is there any interchangeability with other MOPARs for a radiator and shell on a 1930 Model 66? My father-in-law gave me a very complete car in need of a total restoration. Unfortunately, he hasn't been able to find the radiator and shell and thinks someone probably stole it from his barn.

Does anyone know if a 1930 Chrysler 77 radiator and shell will fit a model 66? Thanks in advance.

Bill, I just saw your message and I'll look closer once I get home tonight. You can email me at gtroselle@earthlink.net. Not sure what's going on with the website. Greg

Fortunately the move is only across the country S to N and not W to E. We're currently in SE New Mexico and we're headed to Eastern Idaho, about 1200 miles.

Thanks, it really didn't turn out too bad. There are a couple of nasty runs in places. I may get brave enough and see if I can color sand them out, but that will have to wait until after the big move. The car was originally "Francis Creme", which is yellow. I saw a 1936 Ford at a car show that was this color of blue and decided I liked that color better. I'll finish it off with a red pinstripe down the side and matching red stripes on the wheels. The paint I used was from Omni (a budget line from PPG). I used their MP Series Epoxy Primer and top coated with with MTK Acrylic Urethane. Greg

I'm in the process of relocating across the country later this summer so I've been desperately trying to get the Buick ready to travel. Finally got it 90% painted and back together so I'd thought I'd post a few pictures. It's my first paint job and was done in my garage. Looks great from 20 feet just don't get any closer.

The front bumper for my 1936 Special has hit something in its past life and it now has a slight bend in it. Has anyone tried straightening bumpers. It looks like I could give it a gentle push with my hydraulic press to put it back into shape. My fear is that it will break instead of bend. Any thoughts?

I'm currently out of town but can get you pictures next Thursday when I'm back home. In the meantime I'm attaching a scan from the shop manual showing the setup. Hope it helps. Greg

Keith, That's what I ended up doing on the left rear of my car. I've got a 12" flexible hose attached to a solid piece of brake line that goes to the tee on the differential. The mistake I originally made was getting the nut on the brake line cross threaded in the fitting and it was all down hill from there. I think the brass gets brittle with age too. If I were going to redo it I would thread the solid brake line onto the banjo fitting while everything was off the car. The I would attach the line at the tee on the differential at which point the brake line could be bent so as to get the banjo bolt in, then tighten it all down. Greg

Keith, By brass elbows do you mean banjo fittings? I've attached a picture of one of mine below. I ended up cracking the fitting where the brake line goes into the brass body. I haven't been able to find a replacement yet. The good news is that a modern flexible hose will screw directly into the brake cylinder. There are also two copper washer that go on either side of the banjo bolt. Greg

How about Metro Moulded Parts (Metro Moulded Parts Inc. Automotive Weatherstrip and Rubber Parts)

Keith, My brackets measure 5.75". In 1936 the Century's used a 15" rim all other series used 16" rims. I bet the shorter bracket you have is for a Century. I also have a spare "J" bracket that you can have. It's a pitted on the lower end but is still usable. I'm about to head out of town but can send it off next week if you want it. Greg