Gary_N

Ah John, aren't you married?

Funny, I grew up reading the JC Whitney catalog and it's still around. Bill, I think you're right on the steering shaft insulation. My fresh air tubes are fine, although I need better flexible tubes. I can only find 5 3/8 diameter from the Buick supplier's. The passenger side is 6 inches. The driver's side is smaller. Hey Lamar, I see I'm partly famous now because of the Bugle. Did you do anything with the tranny yet or is mounted as a trophy somewhere? Thanks! Gary

'Yoda' is hot...as in...you can't drive him when it's over 60 degrees outside for very long 'cause it's like 90 inside. The previous owner had removed all of the floor padding since it had been wet and I guess very smelly. But the heat is really coming from the firewall. I'm not sure of the insulation value of the old firewall jute but surely some modern heat shield would be much better. If you pop the fuse panel access on the firewall, the insulation is like an inch thick. And it'll crumble very easily. Yoda is basically original with some awful paint work 30 years ago. OK, he's a 100 footer but, I'm leaving him like he is. I'm not concerned with correctness though, just more comfort. So, the question is: has anyone worked on this kind of issue and what did you use to correct it, Dynamat or something similar? Thanks! Gary

It seems I need to work on the suspension of 'Yoda'. OK, rebuilt is a better world. Whenever, I hit a bump it's a shaky experience. I'm wondering, short of front wheel bearings, what could be the culprit for these shakes over bumps? I guess I should just change everything, but is a there a most likely candidate for this? As far as king pins, do I need to take the knuckles to a machine shop for the bushings? I assume there's a reaming component here? Also, whenever I go over a speed bump I get some good creaking sounds. He's got lots of lube so I'm wondering what may be the cause of those creaking sounds. By the way, the shocks do not leak. Thanks for any help! Gary

Doug, do you have any pictures? Since it's for a 320, I can't do much with it yet. But, I wanted to get it working properly. I may sell it, I'm not sure. Thanks! Gary

Better late than never??

Lamar, I've decided, as a matter of courtesy, to extend your lifetime membership here at the Inn to Terry as well. And, of course, membership includes plenty of food and drink and free towing service in case you, or she, becomes stranded anywhere within 100 miles of DC! Nice pictures. Although I find it very hard to let someone sit on my cars, I think in her case, I would have to make an exception! Gary

I posted this one on the wrong forum. Anyway, just picked up the setup complete with Air Cleaner. It was too cheap to pass up. I was wondering if anyone has any pics of what the set up should look like since mine seems to have a home made linkage and I'm not totally sure if anything is missing. Also, can a busted edge of an exhaust flange be welded? Thanks for any help. Gary

Hey everyone: I picked up a '41 320 compound carb setup complete with the air cleaner. It was just too cheap to pass up. Anyway, before I go scouring ebay looking for manuals, I was wondering if anyone had any pics or other details of what the setup should look like. Although I have most everything, the linkage is home made and I'm not sure what may or may not be missing. I'd also like to get a couple of pictures from someone's car showing what everything should look like. The edge of one the exhaust flanges edge is busted off. I assume it can be welded? I appreciate any help you can provide. Thanks! Gary

Joe, you hit the nail on the head. I think I need to start looking for another Riv! Gary

I was at the dealer yesterday getting my truck's oil changed. This dealer is a Buick/GMC/Saturn/Hyundai dealer. Can you say dead? The Buick showroom was filled with Hyundai's. Most of the salespeople were gone and the rumor there was that only Chevy and Cadillac would remain, which is what I believe. I really find this very sad when it comes to Buick's in particular. My dad sold them starting in '57 and we were always the first ones on the block to go see the 'hidden' new cars. It was very exciting. How did GM go from making such cool Buicks in the 50's to the '63 - '65 Riv's to the Buick of today? They're well built but not very interesting. Geesh, Korean cars filling a Buick showroom. This is just wrong! For me, I'm more convinced then ever to modernize some old Buick or Cadillac for my daily and forget about new cars---except Trucks and Vettes of course! I'm only buying American from now on. But there isn't much to choose from. Hey Bob, bought my '63 Riv when I was 21. Thought I was the coolest thing around. Sold that car for $250. Gary

Gauges are going to eBay tonight. I've decided to sell them off one at a time, with the exception of the Speedo's. Gary

I have 14 1954 Buick Gauges: Gas Gauges - 3 Temp Gauges - 3 Oil Pressure - 3 Clock - 1 Ammeter - 2 Speedo's 2 - One might be good for parts, the other is from a Roadmaster with 36,000 miles. Many of the gauges have the melted black grunge that comes off fairly easy. I do have lots of pictures. Would like to sell the whole gaggle for $200 plus shipping. I think that's a very reasonable price. Gary gnoub51@gmail.com 301/509-1233

Sorry Mitch, I need to get my two cents in too. I've had three Suburbans; a current Silverado; an '03 Century that I bought for my Mother; and three Corvettes. All BULLETPROOF. My Mother's century is more comfortable than my '99 CL500 Benz on long trips. Both my business partner and brother have Honda vans that both needed transmissions at 70k miles. The long and short is that American cars are well built; cheaper to maintain and can take tons of punishment, having 1st hand experience road racing a Corvette. The BEST sports car for the money is a Corvette, period. The best trucks are American. The best engines for the money are American. The best transmissions are American. Our robotics are in car plants all around world. American car company issues have more to do with economics than quality. Japanese don't run things any better than anyone else. What they don't have is legacy costs and if you remember, everything Japanese was subsidized by their government so they could sell their stuff here. What they are good at is copying. Let's see, German cars are supposed to be the best engineered. Well, I might agree. I love them. Ever own one? I have had many. They are maintenance nightmares. One of the guys that worked for me had a Lumina with 450,000 miles and all he did was add Slick 50 to the oil. Try that in your Honda or Benz. I took your bait...and I'm sorry for the rant...but...don't give me this crap that Japanese can run things better or their cars are better. Now, if you're just trying to provoke, well you succeeded. Gary

Try these people. Have friend doing a '48 and he's using one of their kits. Fatman has them too. http://www.jimweimerrodgarage.com/index.htm I'm also doing a '48. Mine is a rusty, rusty mess though! Gary

I have a complete '54 Roadmaster Chassis less the 322. Trans and rear end included. All body components removed. Includes the power steering box and steering shaft. With the exception of the rear cross member (bent but an easy fix) looks to be excellent shape. Preserved with Kansas mud. Sitting in my garage in Frederick, MD. No wheels or tires. Make me an offer! Gary (301) 509-1233 or email me at gnoub51@gmail.com.

Love your '50. I want one!!!! Gary

Hey Rooster: Are you still in need of rear end gears for Irene? IF so, drop me an email. I'll sell you Dorothy's. gnoub51@gmail.com. Gary

Have a tank from a '64 Electra. Just got it back from the radiator shop where is was cleaned and leaks were soldered. Also added a drain plug. It was also paint black. Additionally, had an NOS sending unit (non a/c car) and a used sending unit for an a/c car. $200 plus shipping for all. Gary. gnoub51@gmail.com. 301/509-1233.

Happy so far! Thanks again for your help. Gary

Hey everyone. I just finished converting my '50 to a 6 Volt alternator. I'm an electrical idiot, so I did need some help from the good people here. I bought the alternator from Fifth Avenue Internet Garage. It's a made in America unit and it wasn't cheap. Cost with an adjustable mounting braked was just under $300 delivered. Seems to be very good quality! Since the idea was to get the charging system working great and not getting into a 12V conversion, adding a/c or anything else, the 6V alternator made a lot of sense. It wasn't a matter of starting though. I've been amazed at how long I can crank that 6V battery. It was the other areas. The dim lights; the discharging at idle; the really dim dash lights, etc. And it seems you really can't charge a 6V correctly making short runs around town, which I do a lot. Well, all I can say is WOW, what a difference. My lights are as bright as my Corvette. Even at idle with the lights on there isn't a discharge. The car even seems to run better. It was well worth it to me. And, the best part is it can be easily returned to stock for any future reason. Just my .02 cents. Gary

Well, checked all the connections, found voltage across the coil, turned the key and he fired right up. Loose somewhere? Anyway, what a HUGE difference. My lights are actually as bright as my modern cars. He even seems to run better. Thanks again for your help!! Gary

By the way, I switched over to a Pertronix ignition three years ago. So, no points to open or close. Gary

Thanks Joe. I'll be in the garage tonight with my meter. I'll let you know what I find. Gary

Click File Manager at the bottom the new post, or click "Switch to Full Screen Reply" if replying to a post, and then click the File Manager. You can "Browse" your computer for the picture and then click "Add File". If your file is too big, you're on your own. There is software around that you can download to reduce the size of the pic. Best thing is to reduce the size on the camera before you take any pictures for posting. Gary