HarryJ

Thanks again Don, by the way, your tag looks to be from a 1928 series "62".

Don....Thank you very much! As far as I can tell mine is not rivited on; but I need to study mine more and your pictures more. Note, mine reads WPChrysler, whereas yours reads Chrysler. Is your face plate made of stamped steel and is the metal on the back lead?

mikzjr....I think you are refering to the atmospheric vent. If the float sinks it will suck the gas into the engine. Ceck your atmospheric vent for stoppage.

Thanx Brad....Don, I can't tell how the Fedco tag is attached to the dash. Either from back or front I can't see how it was attached (see attached pic of back). I have also included some pictures of the restored floorboards.

Don....I can't figure out what metal it was plated with and did it have any paint over the plating ie in the background areas? Another problem is that it is attached to the dash in such a way that it can't be tampered with (anti-theft protection). Can a plater plate only the tag and not the rest of the dash. I'm glad you got your runningboard molding; the guy at L&L has promised a catalogue, but none yet.

Floorboards....that's what I have been working on for the last three days. I did restore the windshield header mechanism and study for the next steps in the restoration. Making the floorboards and restoring the floor boards is proving to be another challenge to me. I have decided to replicate the front floorboards and add the dutchmen to the original and see which one works and/or looks best. It took "Mr. Bad Wrench" three attempts to cut out a toe board for this car. I tried at first to replicate an original floorboard...no luck...when the basic body was pieced back together some thirty years ago, it was slightly out of square. The original floorboards would no longer fit; so, when I replicated an original to the thousandth's, it would not fit either. I finally made a display board template and carefully fitted it to the hole/space. Attached please find some nine or ten hours of my time per day for the last three days. Also....Chrysler subscribed to the Fedco anti-theft system. Has anyone restored one of these ID tags? How did you do it, or is their someone out there that can restore one of these plates?

Dean...My mistake, I was looking at Huptoy's picture which shows a Electrolock ignition cable. Your car ('29 series A) is supposed to have a type 5A Electrolock ignition cable.By the way, great job on reproducing your runningboards and especially the mounting brackets. I need to reproduce the mounting brackets for my '28 Chrysler. The Chrysler's are a little more complex than your Hupmobile's; however seeing you do it helps me with my project.

hddennis....No these are not coils,but armored ignition cables...I did read your post about Atwater-Kent..have they come back from the dead?

I have wooden artillery wheels on several of my antiques. Some of them are slightly warped: ie. the the edge wobbles in and out when turning as the felloe is not all in one plane. The wheels are late twenties vintage and are composed of massive spokes hubs and felloes. The question is: can they be pressed flat again in a press or is their some other way to true them?

Mike...I am looking for the same thing also. I have the whole assembly in very good shape except for the diecast "pop-out" part which has swollen up due to Zinc diease. It is on my list to get done with my restoration and I have talked to several good machinist who feel they could possibly make it. Please keep me posted as to your efforts in this endevor. By the way both the '28 series "72" and '29 series "75" ran a type 5-B Electrolock, so did the Imperial "80" of '28 thru '30.There is a different part # for the lock assembly and switch and cable between the cars yet the lock cylinder carries the same part #.

Further update on progress....Folks, first let me thank you for your help in my project. Posting my efforts here motivates me to continue on. As of late I am still wrestling with finding the running board molding or possibly having it reproduced. I hope I can find some. On top of this I am facing four projects that will require the help of a machine shop. The first of these is repairing the door stop slides for the four doors. There is a small flat spring that offers resistance to the arm as it moves down the slide groove toward the stop spring. All of these springs are worn out; however they are held on with a special stud which is bradded to the arm. To fix this requires grinding off the stud/brad, re-machining it, reproducing the spring,making a die to spread the end of the stud an reafixing it. Secondly, the gas pedal has an aluminum cover on the end that needs to be replicated. Thirdly, I need some slots and holes machined in the running boards. The fourth item I need machined are some large washers used in conjunction with the body bolts to hold the body down. These items may take some weeks or months to resolve; however, I will get them eventually. Now, I have been working on replacing the front floorboards. It has taken me three attempts to replicate the toe board. Seems like this job would be a simple task; however, when the basic body was rebuilt some years back the space the toe board mounts in was set up with slightly different corner angles and different dimensions from stock, requiring me to make a template of cardboard and fit it several times to get it right (see pics). The front floor boards as I mentioned earlier are made up of up to six individual boards that are tongue and grooved together with dovetail tongue and grooves. These are not easily replicated. I am seriously considering fixing the original(which is 98% there) with a couple of dutchmen; one at either end. Yesterday I did cut out several sets of boards with a square tongue and groove which I could assemble and replicate the floorboard and no one would know the difference; however after studying the situation last night I began to consider adding about a 1" dutchman to either end of the exsisting original. You would not be able to tell this fix was accomplished on the restored car without close examination. Either way progress slowly continues. I have attached some pictures for your review.

Dean, It is a "pop out" ignition switch notice the tag on the cable leading into your distributor. The ignition switch pops out when you turn on the key.

Dean....Nice Job! I noticed the ignition cable...is it an electrolock? (pop out)

BenD....Is your car a six or eight...it looks like you have a Deluxe model as you have 4 ridges on your fenders. What is the serial #?

Mike, I have an Electro-lok switch on my '28 and need some help on restoring the pot metal parts of this switch. I'm glad you posted this.

Don....Yes it is L&L Antique Auto Trim. I am to recieve a catalogue in the near future.

This looks like a roadster or phaeton cowl of 1930+/-.

Further info on the running board moldings I am seeking.....This morning I went out to the shop and studied the moldings I am seeking closer. The moldings were originally roll formed (not extruded) and the outside molding has a lower lip that wraps under the lower outer edge of the running board. This outside molding measures 1.305" top to bottom and the top edge (with the 5 beads) measures .656" across. The metal is .0475" thick.

1930......Could you post a picture?

f-aschwanden, West, TexRiv63....Thanks for your responses. The guys in Austrailia have running board rubber that is similiar to mine but no running board moldings that I can see on their web site. West, I had a real great conversation with Warren and he is going to send me a fax of the cross section of the Packard running board trim. Tex as far as Restoration Supply goes; they have some that looks almost exactly like what I need but it is made of brass. By the way I spoke to a guy out in Missouri who advertized in Hemmings under running board trim and he is sending me a catalogue showing what he has to offer. I spoke with him and he seems quite knowledgable on the subject of running board trim.Thanks again!

This is terrible news....I heard she was sick...this saddens me greatly...the car hobby has lost someone who helped build the data base we all rely on and was someone I lived in awe of.

Rare bird....I wonder if any others have survived. According to the " Standard Catalog of American Cars" Davis was in business from 1908 to 1929. This car appears to be a late twenties model. It would be a challenge to bring back.

JohnD1956....Does he own the property or is he going to fix up someone elses' property in order to rent it at his own expense? As to the basic question "concrete or asphalt"; I would recommend concrete,fiber reinforced, 4+" thick approx. 7,000psi+/-.

Pacer....What kind of questions do you have about series "72" Chryslers. I thought you had a roadster.

Further update on my progress....For the last several weeks I have had to apply myself to making a living and personal business; however, I have made some progress on the Chrysler. The running boards have been reproduced by a local quite talented sheet metal guy. To look at the running boards it would seem they would be easy to replicate, as they are a series of straight line breaks in a piece of sheet metal. The fact is these were originally roll formed and using a break to reproduce the ribs formed by roll forming is not possible. Turns out the parts have to be fabricated out of several pieces of steel. The gentleman that made these fabricated them in such a skillfull manner you can't tell they are made of several pieces! I have included some pics for your review. Note the original running board used as a pattern to the left of the reproductions. Concurrent with the restoration of the running boards I need to find a source for the running board molding. I have attached a quick drawing of what I am looking for. These moldings are made of aluminum and have five beads along the top edge. If anyone reading this knows were I can find duplicates please let me know. In another two to three weeks the car heads off for the body shop again where I hope to have the last of the sheet metal work completed. When the car gets back to my shop I will deal with several other small body details and then to the engine and chassis.