HarryJ

Note of provenance......The water pump on the car I am " preserving" came from a parts engine I acquired several years ago. The serial # of the parts engine I am refering to is #49498. The car I am preserving is #49600. The water pump on the workbench in the preceeding photos are of the pump off #49600. When I rebuilt a water pump for the " driver/preservation ", I practiced on the worst pump first. That was the pump off #49600. I then rebuilt the best of the two pumps #49498; which is on the car.

Barry, I really wish you luck in your endeavor. I saw a Continental Beacon at the Hilton Head Concours about three years ago. It was a two door sedan; but, to me it was the most interesting car at the show!

Interesting acessory light ........I wonder where it would mount.

DavidAU, I,ve never heard of "freeze release". The water pumps of the "L" Lincoln and the '21 Studebaker light six are of the same basic design as the Rolls with the concentric 3/4" deep joint. In my opinion you had a really tough joint to break...............Aluminum/aluminum. The "L" Lincoln is Iron/Iron and the "light six" is aluminum/Iron. I don't guess Rolls Royce still has the patterns for the water pump or the drawings ?

Excellent!!!!!!!!!! I wish I had one tenth your talent.

That is Purolator type SG-2. The one on the right is an SG-2.

Laurie63, from what I'm seeing there is a good chance of you finding the parts in Austrailia.

DavidAU, I just re-read your description of dismanteling the RR water pump. I'm sure this issue has been addressed in this forum before. Could it be done without noticable damage to the castings? The guy that does automotive machining for me recently "Deep Fat Fried" a Ferrari engine to get it apart! It took four or five heat-cool cycles to finally break it free. It was literally boiled in penetrating oil. ( each heat/cool cycle took 6 to 8 hours)

DavidAU.....thanx, these pictures are quite interesting. I feel your pain on the broken flange. On one of the Lincoln pumps and one of the light six pumps "Mr. Badwrench" broke a flange. Nickelroadster, thanx for the views of the Marmon pump. I need to study these pictures further. The following pictures are of the two pages in the Lincoln service bulletins reguarding packing the water pump. (for some reason my scans are coming out blurred). Basically the bulletins say ram down 14.5" of 1/8" packing with the Tool No. 5Z-1446.

DavidAU....Could you publish some pictures of your P2 water pump ? Nickleroadster thanks.......!

Today, I completed dismantling the "L" water pump. I rebuilt this pump along with the one on the car some six or seven years ago. My memory failed me as it took a bit of study to remember the proceedure. When I rebuilt the two pumps I packed them with teflon packing; and, as I said, at the start the unit on the car has leaked from the day I installed it no matter how tight a turn the packing nut. So now I am going to remove the new teflon packing and install old fashioned graphited cabled yarn. A friend of mine and fellow restorer shown me a "Skinned Knuckles" article which recommends against teflon; concurrent with that everyone that has responded to this post has also refered me to the old fashioned packing. Also, when I rebuilt the pumps I failed to ram down or form the packing to the space in the gland chamber. The first picture shows the proceedure for dismantling the rear bearing assembly. This is one of the proceedures I had to figure out again. Turns out there are two tapped holes in the rear hub/plate in which you screw in a couple of bolts which push the hub off as they press against the underlying bearing housing. The second picture shows the packing chamber filled with the teflon packing. The last shot shows the teflon rings removed.

DavidAU..............That is awesome,,,,, Rolls had a very good design for it's time. Just this afternoon I ordered several feet of packing from Restoration Supply in both the 1/8" and 1/4" sizes. When this order arrives I intend to rebuild the "L" pump. An antique car friend nearby has agreed to share some of his water pump grease with me. Here are some pictures of the water pump as I pull the front end bearing off and a close up of the brass gland nut.

There ain't no better repellent.

Could you publish some pictures?

Tinindian thanx I am leaning toward the small diameter graphite impregnated cabled yarns. DavidAU thanx, can you reccomend a grease? Mark Shaw thanx for the McM reference. I will proceed to attempt to repack the "L" Lincoln pump. I will publish my attempt here.

Here are some close-ups of the other packings.

By the way..........the multi strand cabled yarn came in this box.

Tinindian,,,Mark,,,,thanks !!!! To be honest I have only packed two water pumps in my life and, true to form, neither one is properly done. The one on the Model "A" I can live with; however, the unit on the "L" Lincoln leaks like ...well. I have tightened it several times since I restored it six years ago. Water still pores out both packings. I used Teflon rings to pack this pump. Tinindian, thanks for the tip reguarding a drip every once and a while. Did you use something like an 1/8" string to pack a pump? Mark, recently I got to look at a '27 Marmon water pump, it has a grease fitting connected to the packing chamber. The other cars I have don't have this feature. I was not aware of the need to lubricate the packing area. I need to repack both the '21 Studebaker and the '28 Lincoln. I need ya'll to talk me through this job. The last picture shows the five different packings I have in my possesion.

I know this point has been addressed many times on this site............I would like to know what the best water pump packing for cars of the 30's and before is. I heard that Teflon is not reccomended.

olcarz,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Yes, I would publish the serial numbers of cars I own on a public forum. I own #49600. Ford still has a very good percentage of the records by serial numbers of the first Lincolns produced. Note,several car clubs are very particuliar about serial number ID. I have seen the car in question; as I attended the Concours @ Hilton head this year. The car was sold at auction at that event. I think the car was "well bought" to quote the terminology used in "Sports Car Market" magazine. Publishing information such as serial numbers on a public web site such as this establishes provenance.

Found a picture of a series "72" in the land down under. Note.........this picture was provided by the folks doing my body work. They searched the internet and found this picture.

A close up of the head repair.

Again..........what are the crankcase and frame serial numbers?

I would really like to hear from all of the remaining series "72" owners, junkers or show winners.

Layden....Here are the pictures you sought some months ago. As you will note, several repairs where required on the head as I received it. First and foremost there was a small hole (1/4" dia) from the combustion chamber to the water jacket. Turns out it is due to thin place in the original casting that corroded away from the inside out. On top of this problem,the welsh plugs were in a very deterioated shape and required replacement. The head was also milled flat. Hear are some pics.