HarryJ

1929Chrysler...Just give me a call, I'll give you my address. I'm in the CCCA and the WPC Club , for phone #; if you don't have these rosters PM me and I'll give you my #. By the way, I am aware of these folks in Austrailia. Their carb would work on my car; however, it is not original and the Carter BB-1 is an excellent carb as I see you know. As to the tags for the generator and starter contact Larry Symons, 14 Coral Rd., Bell Canyon, Calif. 91307. He represents the Southern California Region CCCA and the tags among other things are region projects. thomatt...Thanx for the encouragement...I need it.

Johan...Do you plan to enter this car in a concours; it would certainly be strong competition! Details, details, and you say I take the long way. I am amazed you can restore an American car so well when you are so far away from parts and information resources. Beautiful job!!!

Johan...Do you plan to enter this car in a concours; it would certainly be strong competition! Details, details, and you say I take the long way. I am amazed you can restore an American car so well when you are so far away from parts and information resources. Beautiful job!!!

Here are some pictures of the challenges/projects I am now working on. The top picture is the Pemberthy Ball & Ball SV-37. The unit you are looking at is a NOS carb; however, you will note upon close examination the ravages of zinc disease. I really would like to reproduce one of these carbs. If I am lucky I can develope a rapid prototyping technique that will allow me to facilitate this goal. Below that are NOS examples of the two oil filters that were fitted to the car when new. On the right is a SG-2 and on the left is a SA-2. The last shot is one of some of the handles and escutcheons that I need to reproduce or locate reproductions. These die cast parts were common to Fisher/GM cars of the late twenties.

Here are some pictures of the challenges/projects I am now working on. The top picture is the Pemberthy Ball & Ball SV-37. The unit you are looking at is a NOS carb; however, you will note upon close examination the ravages of zinc disease. I really would like to reproduce one of these carbs. If I am lucky I can develope a rapid prototyping technique that will allow me to facilitate this goal. Below that are NOS examples of the two oil filters that were fitted to the car when new. On the right is a SG-2 and on the left is a SA-2. The last shot is one of some of the handles and escutcheons that I need to reproduce or locate reproductions. These die cast parts were common to Fisher/GM cars of the late twenties.

1929Chrysler...Thanx for the tip....When me and my engine guy rebuild an engine, he orders the pistons from J&E out on the west coast. We do this because these are forged aluminum and precision machined. Cast type pistons are prone to failure due to defects in the casting process.These custom units cost about the same as todays cast units. My car was origanally fitted with dyked rings which are not available today and I would not use this type of ring even if I could acquire them. I don't know if they used dyked rings in 1929. My objective in engine rebuilds is reliability and cost is not a primary consideration. By the way....are you still interested in the firewall plate or did you find another source? I am selling these at cost as I had to order 50 copies to get one. Yes, if I can't reproduce the Pemberthy Ball & Ball SV-37 I will use a CarterBB-1; which was a universal after market replacement updraft unit.

1929Chrysler...Thanx for the tip....When me and my engine guy rebuild an engine, he orders the pistons from J&E out on the west coast. We do this because these are forged aluminum and precision machined. Cast type pistons are prone to failure due to defects in the casting process.These custom units cost about the same as todays cast units. My car was origanally fitted with dyked rings which are not available today and I would not use this type of ring even if I could acquire them. I don't know if they used dyked rings in 1929. My objective in engine rebuilds is reliability and cost is not a primary consideration. By the way....are you still interested in the firewall plate or did you find another source? I am selling these at cost as I had to order 50 copies to get one. Yes, if I can't reproduce the Pemberthy Ball & Ball SV-37 I will use a CarterBB-1; which was a universal after market replacement updraft unit.

Matt....Interesting comment about the open Dusenberg. These cars are ones you really have to know. A friend of mine makes the comment about Derham Touristers "This is one of the seven survivors of the three they built"! The provenance of a lot of these cars is quite mixed up. Most of the "J" Dusenbergs built were sedans; but, unfortunately few survive today as they have been converted to open cars. On top of this many cars have been cobbled up from fabricated parts and other parts from here and there. Was it a deal; only A Dusenberg expert would know.

Matt....Interesting comment about the open Dusenberg. These cars are ones you really have to know. A friend of mine makes the comment about Derham Touristers "This is one of the seven survivors of the three they built"! The provenance of a lot of these cars is quite mixed up. Most of the "J" Dusenbergs built were sedans; but, unfortunately few survive today as they have been converted to open cars. On top of this many cars have been cobbled up from fabricated parts and other parts from here and there. Was it a deal; only A Dusenberg expert would know.

John...Jack.... thanks for the response! Jack, I would really like to see some photos of your Royal Sedan. If you could post some that would be great. I would also like to talk to you and learn some about your restoration. As to the oil filter supplied with the series "72", two types were fitted during the production run. Those were Purolator types SG-2 and SA-2. The SG types required a die cast manifold and the SA types had the oil line run in the top and exit the bottom. I have been lucky enough over the years to acquire a NOS example of both. If you go to Hershey and are persistant enough I am sure you can find one of these filters. John, I bought and have received the door handle springs I was looking for, although I have made a note of the source you recomended. To update those of you that are following my progress in this task; I have received the springs and cork that I was looking for. I have also had the hood shelves and an extra set of rear fenders stripped and readied them for my body man. I have to wait, as my body man is in the process of moving to a new location to have these parts straightened and primed. At present I am applying myself to the last bit of woodwork I need to do, which is reproducing some of the floor boards. I have contacted my engine guy and given him the heads up that I plan to get with him soon to start the engine rebuild. When my body guy gets settled in his new shop I hope to get the splash aprons and front fenders to him for his professional touch. The next parts I will need in my process are the interior and exterior handles and the carburetor. The carburetor may be impossible except at enormous expense as it was a die cast unit and was prone to zinc disease. The unit was a Pemberthy Ball & Ball SV-37. This was one of the first dual throated carbs ever built. I have several examples of the unit including a NOS example; however all are bad. Did any other cars run this unit?

John...Jack.... thanks for the response! Jack, I would really like to see some photos of your Royal Sedan. If you could post some that would be great. I would also like to talk to you and learn some about your restoration. As to the oil filter supplied with the series "72", two types were fitted during the production run. Those were Purolator types SG-2 and SA-2. The SG types required a die cast manifold and the SA types had the oil line run in the top and exit the bottom. I have been lucky enough over the years to acquire a NOS example of both. If you go to Hershey and are persistant enough I am sure you can find one of these filters. John, I bought and have received the door handle springs I was looking for, although I have made a note of the source you recomended. To update those of you that are following my progress in this task; I have received the springs and cork that I was looking for. I have also had the hood shelves and an extra set of rear fenders stripped and readied them for my body man. I have to wait, as my body man is in the process of moving to a new location to have these parts straightened and primed. At present I am applying myself to the last bit of woodwork I need to do, which is reproducing some of the floor boards. I have contacted my engine guy and given him the heads up that I plan to get with him soon to start the engine rebuild. When my body guy gets settled in his new shop I hope to get the splash aprons and front fenders to him for his professional touch. The next parts I will need in my process are the interior and exterior handles and the carburetor. The carburetor may be impossible except at enormous expense as it was a die cast unit and was prone to zinc disease. The unit was a Pemberthy Ball & Ball SV-37. This was one of the first dual throated carbs ever built. I have several examples of the unit including a NOS example; however all are bad. Did any other cars run this unit?

Chacheska....Yes, I have been contacting collectors who own cars like I am looking for. I have had some wonderful conversations, and missed one or two deals. Auctions are not bad if you know what you are doing. I must say know the ins and outs of the type of car you are buying; know where to look for its weak points. A case in point concerns a '25 Franklin I bought at auction some years ago. I've always had a liking for this make. I had not noticed it prior to it's coming on the block. From what I could see it was a fairly good looking car. The car drove onto the auction block under it's own power and seemed to run fairly well. The bidding stalled out just under 10K; I hesitated just long enough to hear "going once etc" and bid. Suddenly I realized I needed to join the H.H. Franklin Club (Great Organization!!!). When the car was shipped to me some weeks later, I became aware of a weak point to check on these vehicles, the frames as some of you might be aware are wooden. The one I had purchased had a severly rotted frame which was barely held together with some patches just good enough to get it across the block. The car has since found a good home and new frame. I say know what to look for even when buying from an honest collector. By the way, to stay within the subject matter of this thread, I feel collector car prices will stall and fall soon.

Mike...I would not junk it, as it has survived for this long. Someone nearby you might give you a buck or two to haul it off.

I must say that reading these comments sums up the supply/demand situation in the collector car market from almost every angle. For me, I don,t consider any of my cars (all pre war) to be investments. I am upside down in all except one. Cars like most collectables (art, furniture, coins, stamps,etc.) are somewhat illiquid if you must have the money now. I am presently in the market for another car and have been shopping arround, so these comments are enlightening. Recently, I went to a major auction as a car I was interested in was up for sale. I had set a price that I was willing to pay; it went for way over that. I studied the car as carefully as I could before it went on the block. For about 30 minutes prior to it's time on the block I sat arround on a wall nearby the staging area and noticed the people who were looking at the car. The owner(a dealer) stood by the car. Several of his friends came up and talked and joked arround with him. Turns out, when I was out on the bidding floor these people were bidding. The price was bid to a level way above what a car like this was worth. It was counted as a sale; however, it sold to one of the dealers friends. So I am still in the market.

cardinal905 ...make sure and put a little oil in each cylinder before you crank it for the first time. and lube up other moving parts. As to information try the Detroit Public Library, The Philadelphia Public, and the AACA Library.

Bill....There are several sources for this material. Restoration Supply out in Escondido Calif. has 5 different widths plus several other antique auto supply houses carry it.

A couple of years ago I purchased a carburetor and ignition business. With this acquisition came a lot of junk, including 2 Snap-on engine analyzers. One is a Counselor XL (model MT 1765), the other is a Counselor MT 1665. I cleaned them up and brought them to my shop. They both turn on and the functions can be brought up on the screen and I would guess they are in good shape. My question is, will they work on 6-volt cars? There is nothing in the manual refering to 6 or 12 volt systems and there is not a switch or button on the units for 6 or 12 volts.

Rik...I know what you mean about bleeding brakes. They seem to never get bled. You could try a Mityvac (vacuum pump) on the wheel cylinders. I have done it on my '31 Plymouth. Sometimes the person depressing the pedal in the car might let it up slightly allowing some air to be brought back in. I have never heard of putting air pressure on the master cylinder to push fluid through.

Mike ...The trunk is missing the latch mechanism and maybe some other parts...is there a rack on the back of the REO? If you're trying to find out what it is worth, not much in the condition it is in.

Mark.....My 1928 Lincoln has a back up light...leads me to wonder what was the first use of back up lights...yes, I know about run down batteries due to parking in reverse!

mmuehlba...I think this is a DURKEE-ATWOOD CARRIER DE LUXE. The ad refers to model "A" Fords; however, you will note the car in the ad is not a Ford.

I was just wondering....What was the first car to have brake lights?

For those of you in the Atlanta Ga. area this next weekend the Georgia Tech car show is going to be held on the 29th . This is proving to be a major event including antiques, exotics, concept cars, race cars and more. So if you get a chance stop by Georgia Tech's campus on the 29th.

1925Stanley....I would try E-Bay. I was refered to E-Bay to find an obscure door lock spring for my '28 Chrysler and found it. By the way, Chrysler ran external contracting brakes like these thru 1928. The cylinder, springs, cylinder mounting bracket, and shoes look like the ones on my car. The backing plate assembly is different though.

Superior...really sharp! Can't stop admiring the work!