26pack

What type of transmission fluid should be used in a 1926 transmission? Thanks.

Hi Brad. Sure smells like fraud to me. Many states have laws to prevent this sort of thing--failure to make full disclosure, no shills (or is it schills?) at auctions to bid prices up, etc. The bad news is that the laws are on a state by state basis and each state is a little different. But I think a complaint to the state AG might be worth it. And maybe the BBB. Also, the more the better so if you know of others who feel the way you do you might be able to wake someone up to do something. Good luck!

Could it be a Sears?

But West, your picture is "Overkilled" with whitewalls. And it has a Duck! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I double clutch on every shift but it still doesn't help. I'll check the gear oil weight but I think its correct. By the way, any thoughts about starting in second gear on level ground?

Thanks for the info. I have a few questions on the transmission. Its a 3 speed, on the floor, not syncromesh. First, I noticed that unless I'm starting from a dead stop going uphill, there is no reason to use 1st gear. I start in 2nd and she just moves right out. No riding the clutch, no bucking, no engine rattles, nothing. And the gearing for 1st gear is awfully low (or high??) so in 1st, as soon as the car is moving, its time to shift. So, I start it in 2nd. Any comments? Second, when starting from a dead stop, the gears will gring every OTHER time I put it in first. Not a bad grind but in's noticable. Also, if it grinds going into first, I get a grind going into second. Again, not bad but you can hear it. But, this only happens every OTHER time. If it grinds once, then the next time I go to put it in first, no problems. Or second. But sure enough, the time after that I get the grinding. So, I ran down my checklist. The clutch is new and installed properly. No chatter, slipping or grabbing. I checked the clutch pedal and that looks fine also. The linkage is hooked up correctly and according to the owners manual, I should have 1 inch of play when depressing the clutch before I feel resistance. Sure enough, that's exactly what I have. Third, problem with the transmission? Nope, when I had the engine rebuilt, I checked the transmission and it was fine. So I checked the transmission fluid level. Its fine. Which leaves me with option 5: hey, the car's over 80 years old-its allowed to be a bit cranky once in a while! Any comments/thoughts? Thanks again.

Yes! My 1926 Packard is now on the road! Pictures to follow. But I have a quick question. I need to paint the hexagons on the dust covers on the wheels. What is the closest red on the market to the "Packard red" used for these hexagons. Or does just plain old generic red work? Thanks.

In Queens, NY there's a junk yard that has half (cut front to back, not side to side) 20 something Chevy or Ford. You can see it from the LIRR.

My first car was a VW beetle. What year you might ask? Depended on what part of the car you were looking at. I think it started life as a '64.

I think that was one of the Dirty Harry movies.

Hey Tom, how did Harts work out for you? Good I hope. Me, I should have my car, a 26 Packard, on the road this Saturday!! Harts did my engine and it purrs!

Too many cars from the 70s had them. Even Cougars. First generation Miata's in the 90s had them as well.

deleted-ML-415681-ML- Thread deleted by Steve Moskowitz. Please see new post.

I have a 26 Packard and the battery is in a battery box built into the fender. Using a standard disconnect switch is a pain because I might not have the clearance and I would have to take the top of the battery box off every time I wanted to connect or disconnect the battery. Does anyone know of a disconnect switch which might, for example, attach to the engine block or something? Thanks.

Good question. Offhand I forget. But the numbers are pretty large.

I can't see any number on the engine. It should be on the right upper front part of the crankcase. It would start with the letter U. If its a 1927 4th series six, the engine number would be in the range of U95007-U125012.

Dan; The carb is newer than 1926 (3d series six or 2nd series 8)because the carbs from Packards in 1926 and earlier had fuelizer spark plugs in them. I don't see the spark plug in this carb.

Mark: I thinm I'm the guy who recommended Harts to Packin31 and I second what he said. They are very good. They did my engine ahead of time and under budget. Imagine that!

That is an amazing job, but I'm jealous! Its bigger than my apartment. With an attached garage!!

To add to your list, penicillin was invented in about 1939. Maybe this list is a few years old <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Careful. This is also a scam being run on some people. After the item is sold, losing bidders get a "second chance" email. Not true! Its a total scam.

Randy and Speedster: Yup, NYS still requires an inspection. The brakes are checked to see if there is enough padding left on them. Also checked are tire tread, working horn and lights, etc., with older cars getting grandfathered in (so I don't need directionals). But no, I don't have to pass the emissions test.

True, but they can't do NY inspections. Thanks for the info, though.

I bought a 1926 Packard and I'm bringing it home to NYC. 2 questions. Does anyone know a good shop in NYC, Nassau or Westchester who can not only inspect the car but who can also give it a good check mechanically? Also, can anyone recommend a good shipper to get the car from Youngstown, Ohio to NYC? Flatbed is OK. Thanks.

I bought a 1926 packard and I am bringing it home to NYC. 2 questions. Does anyone know of a good shop I can bring it to in NYC, Nassau Co. or Westchester Co. who can not only inspect the car but who can also give a good check mechanically? Also, can anyone recommend a good shiper to get the car from Youngstown, Ohio to NY? Flatbed is OK. Thanks.