Erndog

The 1930 Buicks did, in fact, have a back-up light that comes on when the transmission is shifted to reverse. There is a switch at the top rear of the transmission that is activated by a rod that pokes out when put in reverse.e

Thanks! That is exactly the situation I am referring to. I considered that, but wasn't sure if it would work. Evidently, it does. One more perplexing situation solved! God, I love these forums!

I have a 1930 Buick sedan that I have been rewooding off and on for the better part of 20 years. One thing (of several) that has stumped me with no obvious solution is this: At thee bottom of the rear quarter window is a piece of wood (rear quarter belt bar) that runs horizontally under the edge of the opening with the metal wrapping over it and down about 1/2" or so on the interior side. The original horizontal pieces are mortised into the rear hinge pillar with two screws securing them from the outside. The heads of the screws are then covered by the outer skin of the car. Before I realized the conundrum here, I faithfully reproduced the hinge pillars and the rear quarter belt bars, and reproduced the screw holes as well. It all goes together nicely, as it should. But I see no way to get these pieces in place when I put the body back togerher, due to the metal lip previously mentioned, short of bending it out of the way which I do not suggest. Are there any people out there that have dealt with this issue successfully?

I am so extremely impressed with what you have done here!! I have been wrestling on and off with the wood in my 1930 Buick Sedan for nearly 20 years. None of the wood was in good shape or even there in a few cases, so it has been a real challenge. I only wish it was an earlier model so I could use this incredible information. Measurements would be a God-send in my case. However, seeing such a great bit of documentation has given me a new enthusiasm. Thank you!

I would check for those screws at Restoration Supply Company.

Not unusual for the wire to rust away in an old hose. Should always replace the hoses, especially the lower one.

Here's another bit from the Dyke's on overheating issues.

Brian, I was going through some of my books yesterday and found a couple things that may or may not be of interest. The first is tune-up data for your engine from a 1938 edition of Chilton, which I am positive you have already have. The other is specific info on timing from my 1932 Dykes. It is for the Eights, but there may be some gleanable material there. Hope you get something of value out of them.

Thank you VERY much! I'm sure that will be very helpful.

You don't have a lead on a good block (center portion)? Mine has a 27" crack. 🤕

Your engine sounds great!

Thanks, Bill. I just put that tube you mentioned in one of my tires and it seems to work, although the end of the stem is right up at the wood spokes. Not bent. Doable, but not ideal. I figure it will be another 20 years before I really need to worry about it at the rate I am going with my restoration. That will put me at 86, so questionable. For now, it is just to roll it in and out of my garage.

I am referring to the main sills that run the full length of the body on each side. The area I am thinking of measuring is between the firewall at the frame and that first hole to the left in your photo.

My sills were a disaster when I obtained my 30-61. The front ends had rotted away and some cheap wood had been scabbed in. That also rotted. So when making my new sills I had to really guess at some things. One being where the front door pillars connect. I think I have it right, but I think you could really help me here. Could you possibly take a measurement from the back of the nearest hole on the top of the frame in front of the cowl to the front edge of the cowl itself on each side? That would give me an exact location for the pillars. Oops, I realize now that your car is pretty much done and your frame covers are in place. Well, if you ever have that accessible, could you measure that maybe?

I just checked and found that the radiator cores from any 1930 Model 50's and 60's are interchangeable, if that helps you at all. Also, original price was $58.

I just found your thread yesterday. Extremely impressed!! ...and so jealous of your progress. I sometimes consider selling my 30-61 and getting something closer to done. I am running out of workable years to devote to it. As for that radiator core, wow, that's $$$$!! There are some out there on the web occasionally. That honeycomb is the first thing I fell in love with on these cars. My dad had a buckrake out in the field made from a '29 Buick Master of some sort. The cows made the chrome on the radiator shell shine like nobody's business. Hopefully, you will find a true replacement someday, or a shop that can really repair yours.

Thanks, Mark! You don't think 3 5/8" stem on a Coker tube would be too long?

I need to change out some inner tubes on my Model 30-61 and am having some issues. The car uses 19" Artillery Wheels. Some of the existing tubes have 90' stems, which is very helpful, and some are straight. I bought an appropriate tube from Coker with a bent brass stem. I discovered that the stem could not navigate the opening in the rim, due to bending at the 3/8" point, whereas the hole is 3/4" deep. The only alternative tube seems to be a 3 1/2" straight stem, which I fear may be a little too long. Does anyone have experience with changing out these tubes? What do you recommend I look for? I took a closer look at the bent stems on my wheels and it appears that they were modified by brazing a bent stem onto a straight stem. Creative, but I'm not interested in that.

Not that I am aware of.

Awesome! I knew I could count on you guys.

A friend who has a multitude of pre-1930 cars doesn't know what this is from and I couldn't tell him, either. But I told him I knew where I could find out, so if anyone knows please tell me.

Having had three Master engines, I feel safe in saying a weak point is the water jacket for the cylinder block. All three of my engines had cracks along the lower section of the water jacket on the left side of the engine. My current (VERY long term) project's engine has two cracks there, one being 27" long. And yes, that is nearly the full length. And no, I have not been able to locate a replacement block. And no, I cannot afford to fix it. Unfortunately, the other two blocks were sold to a scrap iron man by my father, not realizing they were mine, so I can't rebuild them. He was of a different time. He once sold running Model A for $5 and a Model T body for $10. Of course, we never liked Fords much, anyway. I don't need to worry too much about it, though, as rebuilding the wood for the car is in its 18th+ year. One tends to get frustrated and/or lose interest occasionally. Now that I have retired, I hope to get back into it, so it doesn't fall upon my son, as he has his own projects to worry about.

It is not a big money car, so don't do it with profit in mind. The wood work isn't that difficult for the most part, just time consuming. There are lots of publications out there and the '29 Buicks are similar enough to reference for some things. I highly recommend visiting http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com to see some info. Tons of it there; great resource. A big factor in restoring your car...if you are going to try to keep the original engine, check for cracks in the block, especially behind the manifold. It can be a show stopper. Mine has a 27" crack that I haven't determined what to do with yet ($$$). Spare engines are all but gone out there. I looked for many years. I am pretty sure my project is going to get handed down to my son or sold one of these days, as I am 63 and it hasn't progressed much in the 17 years I have had it.

Feel free to highjack. I find this older Buick to be fascinating. The location and shape of the cowl lights is also a clue to being from the twenties. Ernie

Actually, I do have that piece and the associated regulator. It is the front crosspiece that I am missing (goes behind the metal sun visor). A crappy old plywood scab was all that was there, and way too crude to go by.