Erndog

Thanks guys! I sure am glad I found this forum. And yes, I have the Fisher book, but I can't gleen much from it about that particular "curve". <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Frank, Yes, I have a Fisher body. I don't know if his car stays out in the rain, but I would imagine that in 41 years it must have. He says the water runs off due to the curvature from front to back, which I really can't argue with. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

You should be able to get it at any good bolt supply company (industrial, not something like Home Depot, etc.). Of course, if you need it with script that is very different.

Thanks Curt! Another owner of a model 61 said his are straight and I have the utmost respect for his opinion, but he was looking through a cutout in the headliner and may not have had the best advantage in his view. He replaced his roof three times, but hasn't had to actually replace the wood. I know you have and if you say they are slightly curved I will probably make mine slightly curved, no disrespect to my other source who has owned one of these for over forty years. Another way of looking at it is if in the future I find it should be straight, it will be easier to modify it to straight than the other way around. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I am replacing all the wood in my model 61 and have run into a question regarding the roof wood. Are the bows (crosswise members) supposed to be straight or curved? On mine some are slightly curved, some are perfectly straight, and some are slightly s-shaped. It seems that if they warped it would be more likely to have become curved from straight than perfectly straight from curved. Any advice?? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I am replacing all the wood in my model 61 and have run into a question regarding the roof wood. Are the bows (crosswise members) supposed to be straight or curved? On mine some are slightly curved, some are perfectly straight, and some are slightly s-shaped. It seems that if they warped it would be more likely to have become curved from straight than perfectly straight from curved. Any advice??

Thank you for the info. I read your message about your engine. What a mess! I agree with you. The man now owns an engine. What kind of money are we looking at for the apron and do they need the good one for a pattern? Ernie

Those are terrific photos! Please don't remove those albums without warning, so we can download some reference pictures. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

I am in the process of tearing down the body on my Model 61 sedan for a total wood rebuild and chassis restoration. I have the flooring, doors, top sheetmetal, fenders,1/4 windows, rear window, and gas tank removed. The top wood is still in place cuurently, as is all the body wood that hasn't fallen off due to rot. I haven't quite figured out how to remove the rear sheetmetal(lower back panels and lower rear panel assembly) from the car/wood. I see that the window openings have a lip at the bottom and not at the top, but the sheetmetal is pretty tight still. Some of my fender bolts snapped off and I suspect that may be a problem, so I will drill them out. I have remove all of the nails, including those (*&^#! nails in the edges of the trim on the hinge pillar. I do have the Fisher body manual, but so far I haven't found any help on this subject. I don't want to force anything if I don't have to, so that I don't damage the welds that hold these three pieces together. Any assistance will be greatly appreciated!! erndog72@cox.net

Go with the big block.

Already a member <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />

I am looking for a right side apron(between running board and body) to fit a 30-61. Do you have that? erndog72@cox.net <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

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U.S. Army ?Field Kit? of 75 assorted cotter pins. Made by The Lamson & Sessions Co., Cleveland, Ohio. Stock No. 42-P5347. These are excellent quality pins. A perfect accessory for your military project. A must for a 100 point restoration. These pins are just right for your car projects, too! The pins are lightly coated in Cosmoline. I recommend using turpentine for removing the Cosmoline. The sizes and quantities are: (20) 1/16 x 1 ½ (25) 3/32 x 2 (20) 1/8 x 2 (5) 5/32 x 2 ½ (5) 3/16 x 2 ½ These pins have been warehoused for over forty years. Originally purchased from the Army to use on farm equipment. The farm is no longer a concern, and we had enough pins to last for centuries. Large quantities available on request. $7.50 per box. Price for case on request. Satisfaction guaranteed! Please pay by money order. Checks ok, but will take longer to clear. email: erndog72@cox.net

I already contacted Hampton Coach, but they said "Unfortunately, we have not patterned a 1930 Buick 4 Door Sedan and cannot offer any ready made kits for your vehicle." Therefore, I must look elsewhere.

I will be watching this one! I just bought a 30-61 a few weeks ago and very little of the interior was intact. Hope we can find help.

Does anyone make aftermarket wood slats that would work on a 1930 Buick? I am doing a total rework of the wood and thought these may be available. Any advice on rewooding would be appreciated.