Erndog

Done. After finding a note in the shop manual that said to pry it off with two screwdrivers, I got it off. Who would have thunk it? I have never been able to get one off without a puller before.

email me at erndog72@cox.net

What is the best method to pull the crank pulley on a 1940 230? It doesn't look like there is enough room for my usual bearing pullers (admittedly I haven't tried yet). Am I going to need to use a bearing seperator type puller?

True, but she knew just about all of them. I think she had actually planned to go, but something came up.

Thanks! Thought we might have a bad key.

Well, that last post was way out of date! Here is a picture of the celebratory jump comemorating her 15,000th jump. I think it was a couple of years ago. VividViews.com ~ Skydiving Events ~ 2005 ~ Carol Clay Big-Ways ~ D70_1824

Cool. I work with the Sky Queen. She once held the women's world's record at 2000 jumps (years ago) and probably still holds it. I can't say enough about Jeff's work!

Got the brakes relined by Jeff Duty at Automotive Manufacturers in Richmond, VA. Dropped them off Tuesday night. No work order, just a scribbled note in an old notebook. Picked them up Friday morning. Couldn't get there Thursday when they were done. Nice shop! Dark and dirty, right out of the 40's. I like it!! I supplied the linings, bought off eBay, and they did the rest. Someone had bonded incorrect lining onto the shoes. They were all the same length, which is incorrect. They blasted the shoes, drilled the linings for rivets, and properly installed them. $50 out the door. See before and after pictures. I wish I had taken better before pictures. They were truly ugly!

Left fender removed. Brakes as found. Slave cylinder originally. Slave cylinder rebuilt. Time to go, old engine buddy! I'm pulled at last, I'm pulled at last. Jonathan gets down and dirty.

Well, we are woefully behind on keeping this thread up. I will try to do some recapping. Removed crossbars under hood, fan, and radiator. Removed hood latch assembly. Wired wheeled and painted crossbars and fan. Tested radiator and found no obvious leaks, but will probably have it looked at. Reassembled painted crossbars. Put second coat of paint on fan. We got keys made for the trunk and glove compartment. Unfortunately, after we got them home we noticed that the two new keys were different from each other. one does nothing. The other will work for the glove compartment and the trunk. However, when you open the trunk the key won't come out. And when you close it, you have to lock it to get the key to come out. Is that the way it is supposed to operate?? Removed left front fender. Required removal of left kickpanel to access three of the bolts. One problem bolt at very front of running board. It had a special thin flat head that came off. Needs replacing. Removed all brakes and slave cylinders. Started honing and rebuilding same with nice kits from Fusick. They were rocked up pretty hard. We'll see if they are leak-tight after they get back together. Removed left engine compartment sidewall. Started cleaning and painting same. Removed LF shock and wheel assembly. Took brake shoes and original set of linings to Automotive Manufacturers in Richmond, VA to get them put on. Fantastic job! All four wheels for $50. That included drilling holes in the linings for the rivets. Investigated the LF shock. Bone dry. Cleaned it as best I could. Verified the valves work. Completely tore down the LF suspension, cleaned and painted same. Reinstalled. Removed front bumper, RF fender (found a 1909 penny, 1951-D penny, and a beautiful 1937 Buffalo Nickel under the floor covering), grill, and hood. Took 1930 Buick out of garage and rolled the Olds in. Pulled out the engine and transmission. No problems. Set engine on engine stand. Powerwashed the engine so we could see what we are working with. Removed head, carburetor, manifolds, water pump, valve covers, and oil pan. Glad we decided to tear the engine down. It is pretty well gooked up.

Rocketraider, thanks for the help that you DO give!! It's not like there are a lot of other experts out there. erndog

I just want to make sure it's not some odd coding for oversizes.

My son and I pulled the 230 engine and tranny out of his 1940 sedan yesterday. We pulled the head and took a cursory look at the pistons. I scraped the carbon off of #3 and found the usual VS. However, there is also a "D" stamped on it. Does that mean anything, and if so, what?

:DGary, Thank you very much for the offer! However, I just got off the phone with Mr. Duty (didn't wait till I got back). He says he will sandblast the old shoes, drill linings (mine are glue-on and he only does riveted, which I like better anyway), and install them, no problem. All eight sets for approximately $45 total!! And he is only about 40 minutes away. Thank you so much for the lead! :D Ernie

Thank you very much! I will be gone for a week, but I will contact him as soon as I return!

:confused: After not having luck finding new brake shoes for my son's 1940 Oldsmobile, I bought a full set of brake shoe linings. I know that when I was young you could get your brake shoes relined just about anywhere. However, since buying these, I have discovered that is no longer the case. While I can find the occasional person many states away that I can send them to to be done, usually at great cost, I would like to find someone closer and more reasonable. Does anybody know of anyone in SE Virginia who still relines brakes? If not, where can I learn how to do it myself? Thanks in advance.

I know the rings aren't stuck because I turned it over by hand, just by using the fan blade. My biggest concern is the main, rod, and cam bearings. Can they handle a couple of revolutions with little or no oil?

I want to do a compression check on an Olds 230 that sat for over 35 years. It still has oil in it, but I am concerned that all of the bearing surfaces are dry by now. I don't know how many revolutions it takes to get oil to the bearings throughout the engine. Is it safe to do a compression check on it, or will those few revolutions be enough to destroy the bearings?

Does anybody make the original style floormats for 1940 Oldsmobiles? These are the ones that cover the whole thing from one side to the other, with a small carpeted section for your feet on the left and right sides. My car still has the original in it, but it needs replacing really bad. I have looked around the internet, but don't see any yet. I can find carpeting and I can find mats, but not the original one-piece units.

Still waiting for a response

Almost looks like an "S".

Anybody got a photo of a nicely done 1940 engine compartment? Doesn't have to be perfect by any means. Just need more to go on than generic rust motif. Series 70 if possible, but should be the same.

I keep seeing reference to series 80 for 1940 and 1939. I thought there were only 60, 70, and 90 series cars. Enlighten me.:confused:

Where can I get a set of shoes for a 1940 70 series other than Kanters?$$:confused:

A great source is an old copy of Hollander's Interchange Manual. I would look stuff up for you, but I can't find my book.