Erndog

I believe this is in the wrong forum.

I have a lot of updating to do, but for right now, I have a question. Technical question: I am restoring the front wheels on my 1930 Buick Model 61. There are some unique roller bearings used on the servo mechanism. My question is should these be greased or not. There is no routing to get grease to them from the grease fittings, and I don't see any prevention for warm grease to leak into the brake drum area. However, I am hesitant to reassemble them "dry". Thoughts/advice?

Excellent report on your motor mounts, Str8-8-Dave!

From page 41 of the 1930 Buick "Specifications and Adjustments" book, "A coil spring is wound about each drum to aid in heat dissipation and in the reduction of brake noises."

Solved! I used a couple wood clamps to hold half of the spring in place while I "walked" the rest into position with a large screwdriver. Then I was able to roll it the rest of the way until it was captured by the small tangs on the drum. Thanks for the suggestions you gave.

From what I can find, it appears that only the 1930 cars used these springs. I wouldn't want to do that because it would probably open a whole new bag of worms. Doubtful that I could reconnect after getting it back in position, as well.

I am restoring the front end of my 1930 Buick Model 61. In a moment of genius I removed the circumferential spring that sits on the outside of the drum, in order to clean and paint it, as well as the drum. It rolled off without much difficulty. HOWEVER, going back on is a whole other subject. I determined right away that I was not going to be able to do it alone. I employed the assistance of my wife and three screwdrivers. All that accomplished was hurting her (gloved) hands and scaring the hell out of us. Has anyone out there tackled these springs successfully? If so, can you give me some hints?

Sold

A new set of Timing gears for 1929 40 series just showed up on eBay! No reserve. https://www.ebay.com/itm/165931384983?hash=item26a2480097:g:jusAAOSwFEJj5XIT&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoDz2Rfrx%2FktBA%2B4OCnsrpOmly6lhuCyiFH3tVFg6GfG6wJIy3P0EGIdnOa%2FCl8pdVoxxHxjL29pE%2FQDd4TSrMRjJTfBNjCtTJChf5JJBmZEpZKX%2FusRoK9tZzDRs3%2Fr2Rr%2BVHt1lIoyhcGKvR9qI4y1Bm4b8I3tEBDrnuosLbe5%2FDMvi5DGigKXPyvqXzEVi0DB0apBWnkv9%2Fc91Nz5iuZ4%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_DU4ofHYQ

Midman, If you have drawings for the front and rear wheels (hubs, brakes, and such), do you think you could post them or shoot me a copy? I still can't get over what a lucky find you made!

Believe it, or not, I actually acquired a full set of factory replacement wood for all four doors for 1930 60 Series cars. If I remember right I didn't even pay that much. As fate would have it, the doors had about the only wood that hadn't dry rotted in my car. If I EVER get to the point of installing doors on my car I will assess whether I need to replace the wood or not. For now the new wood is in storage. Probably not too many of these sets out there, I would imagine.

So, I haven't done much lately because we have been moving for the first time in 28 years. LOTS of accumulation to deal with, I had a friend help me pull Buick items down out of the garage overhead in preps for moving them. I laid them out on the garage floor since the chassis had already been transported and I now had room to do that. A day or two later I was loading things in a POD. I went to move some old mohair material on the floor that I kept as a reference, and heard a sickening crunch. As soon as I realized what I had done I about puked and I am sure people for milwes heard my best sailor jargon at the very top of my vocal ability. Many minutes later, as the echos of my tirade faded, I gathered myself and considered breaking down into a quivering crying mess. However, life goes on, so I'll save it for another day. The crunch came from my original, very intact (previously), Buick Script headlight bar.

Do you have side aprons (over running boards) for 1930 60 series?

Wow! I found them! For future reference if anyone ever loses theirs, I have taken the measurements and here they are.

I am finally starting to put my steering column back together. Buying and selling a house has interfered. Haven't done the move yet, so still sporadic progress. I have a major problem. It seems that I have somehow managed to misplace/lose the bolt and standoff stud that attach the bottom spark and throttle gear bracket to the sector housing. The bolt is no huge deal, but the standoff stud is, as it sets the proper distance from the base to the headlight switch unit. If anyone has one of these for a 1930 60 series I will be forever indebted. If not, could someone give me the measurements and size for it, please? If so, I may be able to find a match or have one made. Thanks!

Engine Running: First drive:

Located in Williamsburg, VA Door panels have been recovered and are in storage.

1940 Oldsmobile G70 Four Door Sedan This was my son’s restoration project, but he went off to college, moved, etc., and the rest is history. Engine is a 230 Cu in in-line 6 cylinder. Totally rebuilt top to bottom. Journal measurements within .0001 in of factory original specs. Last run was about five years ago. Purred like a kitten...seriously. Engine has about two miles on it since the rebuild. Tires also only have about two miles on them. 3 speed transmission. Rebuilt carburetor. We added an electric fuel pump in parallel to the original (rebuilt) fuel pump for easier starts. New water pump. New motor mounts. Radiator rodded out. New front end wiring harness (engine compartment and dash). New headlight wiring. New weatherstripping on all four doors. New Windshield rubber. New fuel line from tank. New clutch lining. New Exhaust system. New brake shoes. Four new tires. Door panels have been recovered. Car is complete. Includes: Radio, which it did not have originally. Also, have the original blank dash panel. Many, many extra parts. Old motor mounts. Original shop manuals, large and small versions. Owners manual. Etc. $5,000

Well, it's a little bit better. Can anyone tell me what type of gasket material is used for the pan? I assumed it was 1/8" cork, but the old stuff looks like regular gasket material. I know the end seals are cork.

Ok. I got the column completely apart. Needless to say, the gears at the bottom, being very old pot metal, all broke. Fortunately, I have purchased a new set from Bob. As I was removing the steering wheel levers I noticed two loose springs, obviously for use with detents. I don't see any detent balls laying around, but I did find two little pencil eraser looking things. Are those the detents they used? Since there are no detent positions and the levers need a little friction to hold them in position, I think these are the parts that go with those springs.

Anyone have a source for felt strips or sheets suitable to make rear pan seals with?

Thanks, dibarlaw! That was the issue. For anyone else out there wondering why they can't get that thin plate off, it is merely stuck, due to time, gook on the felt, and in my case being pinched due to the front of the pan hanging low. Pan helping to maintain stuckness of plate. Plate after removal. Note the riveted strip of felt. I have seen comments about whether or not it is riveted, so there you go. By the way, those last rear-most bolts have slotted heads for mechanics without long ratchet extensions.

I need a little advice, please. I am trying to remove the oil pan. I have 24 bolts out and believe there are two more at the rear, accessible only by removing the little sheet metal access panel. I have removed the four bolts that hold it on, but it won't come off. What am I doing wrong or not doing that I should be?

Should the 1930 Engine Compartment/Engine colors be the same as the 1929 colors? Those are listed in the judging material, but I can't find any info on the 1930's and it seems every one does it differently.

I finally rejuvenated the valve train area and got everything there reinstalled. Looks happier, I think. After I make a couple cork gaskets I will put those side panels back on. Should be ready for the re-installation of the generator/distributor and the water pump, too. Next stop, oil pan territory. Before After