Erndog

Yes, but college and the failure of the engine to run has taken its toll on the enthusiasm. Been fighting to get the engine running for almost a year. Following a lengthy conversation with Bob Petters at Hershey and a pep talk, I got it running last night!! More to come.

Excellent!

Not much. If you have a Chevy, Ford, Packard, or Studebaker, the market was terrific. However, I have a 30 Buick and a 40 Olds. There was more than usual for 30 Buicks, but it was SWAG and not much of it, and items for 40 Olds were virtually non-existent. I also noticed that nobody seems to carry new or old oil pumps. Might be a place to corner the market.

Be sure to try this excellent source: The Old Car Manual Project

Thanks. Good information.

Good suggestion. I will try to get some up soon.

Thanks to everyone about wood restoration products, but I am way beyond that. Any wood parts that have not already been refabricated are not in need of these products. However, they will be remade also. My chief concern is refitting of the pieces.

I have been doing a 100% re-wooding of this car for many years with intermittent stoppages. The only items left to make are the roof slats/crosspieces and rear roof rails. I am entering the fit-up stage of the game finally. That is why this issue reared its ugly head again. I realized the issue ten years ago when I disassembled it, but forgot. Yesterday I attached the rear quarter belt bars to the rear body hinge pillars and test fitted the to the metal. That's when I remembered it is impossible. The old pieces are totally rotted away at the ends, so that is not a possibility. Of course, I would still have the same issue. I am thinking about attaching some kind of scabbing blocks from the inside, but not sure yet how much room there is to play with. I know somebody must have solved this over the years because there are a lot of re-wooded vehicles out there!

I have been doing a 100% re-wooding of this car for many years with intermittent stoppages. The only items left to make are the roof slats/crosspieces and rear roof rails. I am entering the fit-up stage of the game finally. That is why this issue reared its ugly head again. I realized the issue ten years ago when I disassembled it, but forgot. Yesterday I attached the rear quarter belt bars to the rear body hinge pillars and test fitted the to the metal. That's when I remembered it is impossible. The old pieces are totally rotted away at the ends, so that is not a possibility. Of course, I would still have the same issue. I am thinking about attaching some kind of scabbing blocks from the inside, but not sure yet how much room there is to play with. I know somebody must have solved this over the years because there are a lot of re-wooded vehicles out there!

[h=2]I am in the process of doing a total re-wooding of my 1930 Buick four door sedan. I have an issue regarding the Rear Quarter Belt Bars, that piece of wood which goes along the bottom of the rear quarter windows. Evidently, the sheet metal forming the window was rolled down over the wood after the metal was attached to the wood structure. The bar is screwed on from the outside edge, so it must be installed prior to the metal skin going on. With the wood pre-assembled it is impossible to mate the metal and wood without bending the hell out of the metal. Can anyone tell me the right way to do this?? I am trying to figure out a way to assemble the wood from the inside, but haven't come up with one yet.[/h]

I am in the process of doing a total re-wooding of my 1930 Buick four door sedan. I have an issue regarding the Rear Quarter Belt Bars, that piece of wood which goes along the bottom of the rear quarter windows. Evidently, the sheet metal forming the window was rolled down over the wood after the metal was attached to the wood structure. The bar is screwed on from the outside edge, so it must be installed prior to the metal skin going on. With the wood pre-assembled it is impossible to mate the metal and wood without bending the hell out of the metal. Can anyone tell me the right way to do this?? I am trying to figure out a way to assemble the wood from the inside, but haven't come up with one yet.

Excellent suggestion. I was on the phone already for about 30 minutes yesterday with Bob, and we are of the firm belief that the marks should be next to each other. Unfortunately, that eliminates an easy fix.

:confused::confused: In the shop manual for the 1940 Olds 230 engine the only reference to the timing marks for the timing chain installation is to use the special "tool" for alignment. Not having one of those, I need to know the proper orientation of the marks on the gears. The Motors Manual does not show a picture, but has verbage that states the two gear marks should be opposite each other and in a straight line across gear centers. Do they mean at absolute opposites, i.e. the marks at polar opposites, or near each other, as in opposing? I am thinking complete opposites, as the next paragraph talks about rocket engines and says those marks should be next to each other and in line. Does anyone know for certain? This could be why the engine hasn't been able to start following a rebuild.

Bottom right, ford fairlane.

Looks great! I've been working on redoing all of the wood in my 30-61 for ten years now and it doesn't look half as good as yours. Sometimes I think I ought to just sell the thing and get on with life. Excellent job!!

Agreed. It also reminds us of where all the used parts that we can't find went.

1938 Packard?

29 Buick

Ok, got me there.

Judging by the rear suicide door, I would guess a lincoln.

Not a T of any type.

Ford Fairlane?

Wow, that's awesome! How about linoleum tiles in a Camaro, and stucco headliner?

Rhode Island Wiring is definately my choice!

Well, lapping the valves was not a good choice for a 70 year old engine. Should have had them ground while the engine was out like I usually do. After engine would not run we did a compression check and found horrendous results. To make matters worse, my tester was too deep and bent the exhaust valve in #1 jug. We removed the valves and took them to the shop to be ground. I was able to talk the machinist into making a housecall to grind the seats and lap the valves in. Had to replace four exhaust valves, one wouldn't dress and three were bent. Reinstalled them yesterday and adjusted them. Getting those keepers installed on one of these engines with it still in the car is probably the most tediously difficult thing I have ever done. Thank God I got it done. Next time I will pull the engine, or at least remove the right fender and engine compartment wall. Now to put stuff back on and see if it will run...