hwellens
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Posts posted by hwellens
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Attached is some information on a 17 REO; 4 cylinder
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48 Panel - I do not have any extra door stop brackets or tail lights. I thought the tail lights were different on a 48; they are on the back door. I can send you a picture of any part if you need it.
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If you have no leaks your master cylinder is bad or somehow you got a lot of air in the system. If the master cylinder full, the fluid is getting past the cups without putting pressure on the wheel cyliders. Try bleeding the brakes.
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Couple more things in the 30,s
Cars went to downdraft carburators and fuel pumps in the early 30's and the headlights went into the fenders later on.
Trunks were built into the body
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Sent you a PM on these.
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I am the second owner. Got it near St Louis about 25 years ago. The guy that bought it new used it for hunting and kept it garaged. Had 23,000 original miles on when I got it. Hopped on a plane to St Louis and drove it home to Maryland (825 miles)in August with no problems.
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Looks like this? The part number is the pattern. There are many sizes with that number.
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There are no inside handles. There is a latch at the top for opening the drivers side door after the passenger side is open. I sent you pictures of the driver's side latch and the mechanism on the door on the passenger side.
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Send me an email and I will send you pictures. I think I have some extra rear door hardware. I will look around.
Harry
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P25 was used for 1954 Plymouths.
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Hope this helps
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Not sure what year plymouth you have, but, check this site out.
http://www.merc583.addr.com/mopar/framesets/techtipframeset.html
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I checked out the MYT engine. Pretty impressive.
The picture below shows the metal strip on the right front corner of my top.
Harry
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They are painted with water. It is clear.
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Tim, I got my aluminum trim at a boat supply store. It was not the half round, but, they had one that had a little roundness to it like the original. I made a frame to match the curve in the back and heated the aluminum and walked it around the frame to match the original.
Harry
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29 Model 70 had a fuel pump, down draft carburator, 18 inch wire wheels with the lugs under the hub cap. The lights look like Model 77 (70 were painted). Looks like it might be a 1929 model 65. Is there a serial number on the dash or a motor number that starts with a letter. This my help.
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Tim,
I have a couple extra lens. I will mail you one tomorrow.
Harry
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Mopar parts book lists it as general retainer, but, does not list car or year?
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Don't have the tool. But here is a picture of one if someone has it.
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Take the wheel cylinder apart and get cups the same size as were in there. Hone out cylinder and put back together. The brakes can be relined by any compenent brake shop. Most brake books do not list casting numbers.
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Just take the head off and then use a valve spring tool that opens up(spreads apart). These Tools are plentiful and easy to find. Put this tool between the block and the bottom of the spring. The spring will compress and there will be 2 half shaped cones on the the valve stem that you have to remove. Be careful; they are easily dropped and will end up in the oil pan. Than the valve should pull up out of the block.
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The brake drum pullers for wire wheels are different than wood wheels. Wire wheel drums pullers are fairly easy to find since they could be used over several years. The wood wheel puller has to fit the hub thread size as discribed in Hubtoy's reply.
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The cluster (countershaft) gear (part 661302) is the same in all mopar cars from 1935 - 1939. The low and reverse sliding gear (part 661299) is the same in all mopar cars from 1935 - 1938. I have had the same problem and it was the cluster gear that was chipped. You may be able to find a good used one.
1917 reo the fifth touring
in REO
Posted
4 or 6 cylinder