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Posts posted by hwellens
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My parts book says 35-55 is the same. 160 degrees (Olds part 563219) Harrison # 3126289. 180 degrees (Olds part 563311) Harrison # 3126290. Parts book was printed in 1956.
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This started as "are there any changes this year". I am a vendor. What is new this year that is different from last year that I could be BANNED for?
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Sent you email on adjustments
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Crankless Gasoline Primer supplies an evaporized mixture of gasoline to a point in the inlet manifold close to the cylinders in order that the motor will respond promptly to the electric starter and reduce the current consumption and wear on the starting device Besides this its object is to make starting more certain The crankless primer consists of the valve casing containing two valves The casing is mounted on the inside of the dash Projecting on the inside of the dash is a valve stem made of selected Tobin bronze on which is mounted a lock nut and nickel plated foot button Should the starter not operate quickly the foot button is pressed allowing a mixture of gasoline and air to be forced into the manifold As shown in the illustration Fig 2 the gasoline is taken from the feed pipe between the carbureter and the tank The two valves draw in the gasoline and air and a pressure on the button forces the mixture into the manifold This device is made by the Cox Brass Mfg Co Boston Mass
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16 gallons
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If your wires fried when the engine was not running the cutout was stuck in the closed position. If done when running there is a short in the generator.
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A cut out has one set of points. When the engine reaches a certain rpm the points close and you get the charging amps that were set by the 3rd brush. The regular can monitor the battery and adjust itself.
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29 Desoto should have a cut out that will charge same amount no mater what the battery charge is. The only adjustment is the 3rd brush. 25 Amps is probably the max rate of charge. You must have something touching elsewhere because the 3rd brush regulates the arc of the commutator that changes the amp output. I have had several cars with cut outs and never ran into this problem. Your commutator may have accumulated some metal filings and are shorting out so that the 3rd brush is not cutting the arc. You may want to pull the armature and undercut the commutator. Basically clean out between the copper bars.
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Yes. I have a Thomson parts catalog and those are the part numbers that should be used in your 28 Studebaker engine. I looked at other years and the same valve fits a 1929 Commander 6, if that helps.
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Don't have the parts, but, if someone has Thompson valves and springs the numbers are: Exhaust valve = S416, valve spring = VS168, retainer = R99
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The pictures above are for the D12 & 13 not the D11. The serial number based on Chrysler data is a D11 which was built in Canada and the US.
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The man said the heat riser was stuck. Seems like if he frees it the icing problem will correct itself without other fixes.
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Agree, Plymouth
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Sounds like the heat riser is stuck in the open position.
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What is the serial number on the body and the serial number of the motor (located on the forward side of the block under the head. These should help determine the year. Some cars were titled in year sold and not the model year.
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Need good gas in the carburetor and oil circulating in the engine. I would crank the engine over a couple times with the battery before I turned the ignition on. This will start the old circulating before it starts. If it starts, keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge. It should show pressure within a few seconds. Make sure everything that the belt from the crankshaft turns is free. I had a water pump shaft stuck one time.
Peerless Eisemann Mag
in Peerless
Posted
See attached
eismann.pdf