hwellens
-
Posts
1,363 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by hwellens
-
-
A little confused. By your first post. What is the total price? Sent you a PM on this yesterday. Please read and get back to me. Thanks.
-
Sent you a PM on these.
-
My book says the Wauk XA is in a Allis Chalmers Combine. The exhaust valve is S290, intake is V290. Like the person stated above, an auto machine shop should be able to match the stem diameter and machine the head and cut the keeper groves. I had this done for an old car and it was about $50 per valve.
-
I have a book but it only goes up to 1938. The problem with the Thompson book it is sorted by car and there is no listing by valve number. It takes a lot of time to scan the pages. List a couple numbers and I will see if they are in the book. That way you may know if they go back to the 30's.
The quote above looking for Allis Chalmers tractor. Need the model number and I can tell you the Thompson number.
-
List this under Chevy forum. The Chevy cars used those knee action shocks. Rebuild should be similar.
-
All should be the same. I have a 30 Chrysler that takes a 639x and all the ones I have seen that fit my car are the same. Information attached.
-
Don't have one , but, I think you need a Delco Remy Number 640A. Fits models 115, 120, and 128.
-
Don't know the length, but all hoses are the same length. Parts book has all hoses with the same number 303102. These are the same as 28-31 Plymouths (Q,U,30U), all 28-31 Dodges and 28-32 Chryslers (QC,P,PT,R,V,W,KC,CC,CJ,). Maybe one of the people with those cars can measure for you.
I have a Wagner brake book that goes back to 1930. That states the hose part number for a 1930 DD is FC1098 and has an overall length of 16 1/2 inches. The ends are 11/16 -16 thread.
-
Call Bill Reed. Membership chairman 734-626-0814
-
Send email to hcooper@enid.com
-
Hwellens, I am curious to know where that info came from, it is nice to see it all on one page like that. Easier to look up.
The diagram of the generator came from a book that has all the 1935-1938 Mopar generator and starter details. The other listing is from a book that lists original electrical equipment for all cars. If you need your details let me know.
-
The original was a Northeast generator number 6530.
-
GAR 4608 was used on 35-36 Mopars with the deluxe regulator. A detail is attached of that generator.
-
I don't think the wires are interchangeable. One has to go to the charging side which I think is the 3rd brush. If the other is just a ground then maybe you can see with an ohm meter if it is grounded to the case. Don't know why that would be needed. You may have to take it apart and see where the wires go. Still think you have about a 1935 Mopar generator that came with the 2 wire "two charge" regulator.
-
What is the type/number on the plate of your generator? You may have a generator that used an early regulator. They had 2 wires coming out of the generator. The cutout is basically just a circuit breaker and only needs one wire. The current is set by the third brush adjustment.
-
If you removed the cams and not just the C-clips to get the shoes off, you need a major adjustment.
-
Page 28 of the 1938 Dodge shop manual shows the lower adjusting cams. These are the pins that were referred to. There are 4 adjustments to these brakes. The lower ones have to be correct or the brake shoes will not be concentric.
-
Here is a picture from the 38 Dodge shop manual.
-
Attached is a picture of the master cylinder from the 29 parts book.
-
Try Robert Wolf @ 828-682-2663. He is in NC.
web site www.htfparts.com
-
Here is a picture of my 51 Dodge grill
-
The condenser is the small metal can with one wire coming out of it in with the points. If you have the rotor cap off you should see it.
-
Try replacing the condenser. If that does not work, check the pig tails (little wires in side the distributor that connect the plate to the side posts). Sometimes they are broken inside the insulation. I disconnect one end and check with an ohm meter. Also, I would bypass the ignition switch (could be bad) to make sure you have a good current to the coil.
-
Based on my Motors manual, if you have a BXV-3; the fuel level should be 5/8" below the the top surface of the float chamber with the gasket removed. Most of the time the float is adjusted, but, looks like you will have to put gas in the carb and measure the gas level down from the top when the needle valve seats.
Spark Gap REO 6cyl
in REO
Posted
Information attached