JohnD1956

I know the 401 in my former 66 Skylark GranSport was red/orange.

I enjoyed the trailer and the video for the 4th episode, and would ask for you to include more detail on the work involved. I also presume additional editing is in store as I noticed in one segment for the Transmission part the segment centers on the 50 Ford Pickup that the company built. And by the way, here is one other thing that may or may not provoke an argument. Can you really call the car "restored "when you cut the dash to add "vintage air A/C", and changed the color combination and pattern, and the interior colors too? I personally think it is a misnomer. But that's just me. As for watching the show, I might consider it, but mostly because of the subject car. I don't know how much I would watch if it were something else being built. Just giving my opinion here.

I don't know about lofty. I'd be willing to bet you have it done before then. Of course the end of winter in your area may be different from the end of winter where I live.

Paul, Great car, and good advice on the A/C system. The main problem in NY is the absense of R12. I see alot of other stuff at the NAPA store claiming to be R12 friendly, but I wonder if you can use this stuff as a stand-alone refrigerant, or if it really is sufficient. By the way, my NAPA store says they can still get new A6 Compressors. Doug, your dash is perfect. Much nicer than mine. The extra switch I have is the passenger door remote miror, which is controlled by the same 3 cable set up as the drivers door mirror. Those cables are LOONNNNGGGG. As for the antenna, my car does have the power antenna ( although I should say did, because it broke this past winter) and it is controlled by turning the radio on or off. There is no separate switch for that. I did replace my master cylinder yesterday, and painted my booster silver because I had the paint on hand. After I installed the master cylinder and bled the system I shot it with some brake cleaner and then shot it with some clear coat. I just want to see if the clear coat prevents the rust and for how long. Next up is replacing the shocks and then repairing or replacing the door on the passengers side.

ambitious project. How did the roof come out? You actually inspired me to tackle the rear 1/4 on my 69 GS, and that came out okay.

Well, that looks quite nice to me. Wish my car was as rust free as yours. I am interested in the color of the brake booster. Looks like silver? I plan to paint mine while the MC is off. Is that the right color? Also, is there a chance you can get a good picture of the information decal on the radiator shroud? Mine was missing when I got the car. What other emissions does you car have on it? I don't see an air pump. Didn't you say it was a California car?

It is so hard to make a reliable estimation but maybe it would help if we disect the points you have presented. Before we start that though, let me suggest a base price I'd consider reasonable for such a car. Knowing it's a T-type, with several expensive repairs on tap, I'd be looking to buy this car for less than $1,500. However, considering 1) It has 59,000 original miles. I'd say + 500 2) It was repainted ...The repaint was not very good, the paint is presentable from a distance but not even close to very good. I'd say (-$500 ) or more. 3) The car is very original, been kept garaged, never been hit, no rust & cloth interior is perfect, I'd say + $400.00 4) has had regular maintenance like fluids, tires, brakes, spark plugs, filters, battery, I'd say good but it's what expected, I would not add or subtract anything 5) the only other things replaced were the alternator and the coil pack. Depending on if these were recent replacements I might say + 100. 6) The climate control functions fine but the A/C no longer blows cold air. I'd say (- 300) 7) The ABS light stays on but it runs and drives very well and always has, I'd say I might no longer consider the car. I know I had a $750 repair to fix an ABS system in my former 95 Riviera and this being an older system may be unrepairable. Although failure of ABS is not a hinderance to inspections in NY, I would be going crazy with that light on all the time. 8) everything else electrical works fine. I would not add or subrtract anything as this would be expected. This would bring the price of the car to about $1,000. Keep in mind that the prices indicated here are my own, regardless of what any print source says. I like these cars and would really like to have one eventually. But I would not want to be making a purchase that would leave me with no equity in the vehicle. And I suggest that the ABS system problem is going to be a huge detraction to most people.

I recieved this message tonight and I am posting it here in case anyone can assist. I don't have a phone number yet to make contact but will post it once I do. "Dear Mr. Defiore, Greetings form the International Motor Racing Research Center at Watkins Glen, a library and archive in Watkins Glen, NY, as well as BCA member. I have a request that I hope you can help me with: I'm getting married this Saturday in Lake Placid, NY and we've suddenly found ourselves without a "deluxe" form of transportation from the site of the ceremony to the reception, and me having sold my '67 LeSabre last year. Although extremely short notice, would it be possible to locate (should any exist) BCA members in the Lake Placid area who might be available for a brief (less than and hour) ride this Saturday by way of a mailing list, etc.? Of course I'm happy to compensate. Many thanks in advance for any assistance that you can offer! Mark Steigerwald Director, Archives & Administration"

There are many products you can use on the wood. The real trick is to do small patches and polish it all off with the applicator, leaving a small amt of buffing with a clean cloth. On and off as soon as possible. I've even used Kit car wax on it, and that will last a lot longer than one or two rain storms. But you guys got me interested in taking the car a bit further. New Master cylinder is on the agenda for this weekend and then I have two places to go look for a new door. I'll try to post a pic of the offending panel tomorrow.

I would have to hide my car under blankets if it were parked next to Doug's. I took my wagon to a cruise night this past monday but didn't have time to wash it. So I ran through the "touchless" car wash and it ripped a large chunk of the wood grain off my passengers door. This was unexpected but not upsetting because I bought the car knowing that door was previously damaged and repaired incorrectly. The repair and the wood grain are in horrible shape and I have to start looking for another door with the wood grain. Then I will paint around the edges. Then , maybe, I would uncover it if it was next to Doug's.

Damn, Those are two fine wagons. Hey Joe, you taking this in? I do like the older ones better. I think it is the wood grain which turns my head. It is narrower on the early generation cars.

The best anyone can do is guess what's left. We've seen that type of thing here before, but truth is, no one really knows. You'd have to get the information from all the different State DMV's and I'm pretty sure NY state would not give that up easily. Can't speak for the others. Meanwhile I agree with you. 220 for 57's is a low number. But I would agree with the seller. that 57's are somewhat rare. And also highly desireable.

DFM...You made a nice score on that car! Mine should have had the chrome road wheels, but it had the steel wheels and hubcaps when I bought it. I think that your car is way better than mine. But thank you for your compliments. I'd love to see more pics of your car if you have time to take some. That car is super sweet! ps: I have always liked that big round clock. Reminds me of the older Buicks guages.

Nice collection. Sounds like a good time, and this does not clash with the BCA nationals next year.

It was nice being able to finally understand this relatively simple system. I can't tell you how many times I read that description in the manual and had problems understanding the concepts. Thanks Joe, for writing the article, Thanks Pete for including it. It was nice seeing a technical piece in the Bugle. Wish there could be one each month.

too bad we don't know who this guy is:

You have to get the glass out of the door first, which is not easy due to the plastic tabs that hold the back edge of the window into the track at the back edge of the door. With the glass out you need to drill out the three or four rivits that hold the entire tape and motor assembly to the door. With these out you can remove the assembly and then drill out the two or three rivits that hold the motor to the assembly. Advanced Auto used to sell new motors , which I thought were reasonable. Of course, I have not bought one in several years so I don't even know for certain that they are still available. I recommend you take a look into securing a new one if possible. I am unsure if anyone rebuilds these motors. With the motor off the assembly you can position the tape and then reassemble using standard hardware available at your hardware store. I recommend using the nuts that have nylon inserts which help lock them in place.

Now I really feel bad we didn't make it out. Good luck to all the good people of Ames.

Welcome back. You did the right thing taking care of the family.

Glad you got it solved.

Nice pics you guys. Here's our grand neice, Gianna. This one could be titled: Girls working on Buicks.

I imagine that lubes one side of the drum.

I used Duplicolor spray paints. Their heat resistant primer and then GM Blue for the engine, and I used self etching primer and Satin Black for the other stuff. One thing I found was that the Non CFL brake cleaner was not so great at getting all the grease off. I was surprised by that revelation.

Either a 46 or 47 convertible would be awesome, but which ID tag is missing? The Vin ID or the cowl tag?

to Mr. Rick Young and Mr. Bill Stoneberg ... Congratulations.