JohnD1956
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Posts posted by JohnD1956
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What about the guy looking for the right rear quarter fender?
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Are you just doing the intake, or the exhaust too?
I would brush on the paint for the intake, but I would still use a primer after you wire brush it. As for the exhaust manifold, I'm not sure what, if anything, out of a paint can will stand up to the heat.
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Swifster, As an insurance adjuster, can you tell us if this type of accident is on the increase over the last 18 months or so? It just seems so many people do not pay attention and cause stuff like this.
ps: You do know your Ad on the buy/sell forum needs an adjustment to the subject line, correct?
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Welcome back George! Fine looking LeSabre. How did you happen to come by that one?
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825 show cars? Wow!!! That's awesome.
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As I understand it, The door latch unlocks the door partially, so it does not seem to be the lock rod. I did have a problem with my 93 Regal once, when the rod from the handle to the latch got bent ( presumably in icy weather) and the door would only open partially like this. In this case I took off the door panel and bent the rod back into position and it's still working in that same car today.
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Many sympathies from this neck of the woods. Although I don't recall meeting Bill, any Buick loss is sad. Our condolences to his immediate and extended family.
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Never thought of rebuilding mine. If you are in need of the dimmer I'd suggest getting one from Ken Reeves ( Wheatbelt Auto). I can only tell you how nice the 56 heater core he sent to me was. Looked practically new, and needed no repair before installation. I'd be surprised if a rheostat from there was unuseable.
Can't recall which vendor I saw it at but in flint in 2008 someone had a new rheostat. Perhaps a Bugle "wanted" ad would scare up the part?
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I would try using a tire iron ( or other crowbar) from inside the car to raise the door. Stick it under the latch edge, but not too far in. You don't want to crush the sill plate, but you need it under far enough so you can slide the door in and out to jiggle the latch against the pin. Have someone else hold the inside door release lever so you can keep the pressure on the tire iron while shaking the door.
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I suggest you get that new alternator rechecked.
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Sweet! What a super car that's become. You'll enjoy driving that baby!
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None at reasonable rates, and none alltogether. BUT fear not! Join the BCA and check out the monthly magazine. There's plenty of parts available. Also check on line and try to find a service manual. Reprints are generally okay for do it yourselfers. It just helps in knowing what you need to look for.
ps: the Antenna is in the roof above the windshield? Chances are they filled the hole in the body, or the radio was removed at the dealer before delivery.
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That small button you pushed is the release that allows the knob to be pulled out. Once that knob is pulled out you can use a spaner type wrench ( or a screwdriver) to remove the slotted round nut inside the trim, and then the whole switch will fall out the back of the dash.
On my 56 the rheostat went bad. Mainly it looked rusted on top and for severl years if I just ran the dash board dimmer turn to turn it would make contact eventually and they would work. The last time they wouldn't and when I pulled the switch out I bent the rheostat contact out of touch and then ran a jumper wire across the two terminals on the rheostat.
You do loose the dimmer capabilities and the dash lights wil run at full power. But I like em that way anyhow. Been like that for several years now, with limited use, but no problems.
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Welcome to the world of Buicks, and this forum. I think your car is a Special, as usually the Specials are the 40 series cars. In 42 there was a 40 A series and a 40 B series. The A series had a 118 wheelbase while the B series had a 121 Wheelbase. There is the Super series ( 50 Series) and Roadmasters ( 70 series) too but your Style # indicates you have the Special Series. The style # you show seems to not exist ( as per the standard catalogue of Buicks). The 2 dr cars would be model:
A series: 42-44 2 dr Utility coupe 3 pass. or 42-48 2 dr business sedanette
B series: 42-46 2 dr2 dr Business Sedanette 3 pass or 42-46S 2 dr family sedanteet, or a 42-46SSE which is a 2 dr Family Sedanette Super Equiped
The 42-46S has the largest number produced, at 11K, the others are pretty low number cars. Of course 42 production was halted mid year and any of these in good condition is very rare.
What parts are you looking for?
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try closing it again and then lifting it by the handle while opening. I'm thinking the hinge pins are worn out.
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Hi 56. I did not read where you tried changing the bulbs in the dash lights. My dash bulbs for the signals are difficult to see during the day but readilly show up after dark.
Also, since your odometer works it's safe to say the speedometer cable is working. But I don't know the fix for the speedometer drum. Seems there should be a spring in there somewhere which would hold tension on the drum to prevent it from spinning. Perhaps it's anchor broke?
As for the gas guage, if it works at all I'd suggest making sure the battery is fully charged. Mine is also eratic, but it's been much better since I put in the new battery late last summer. I noticed with the old battery that if I used the car without charging the battery first I'd get consistently low tank readings, even though I knew I had put gas in it. But charge the battery up and then use it, it would read correctly. Now with the new battery Willie suggested, that's not a problem any more.
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These Rivs are nice, and maybe someday I'd consider one, but for a kid graduating high school, I'd be more inclined to look for an 89 - 90 Lesabre two door or a 92-94 2 dr Regal Gran Sport. I think you'd find parts just a tad less expensive and also less exotic, while still stylish.
ps: how's the 46? Bill ( with the 41) just sold the car this spring. Sad to see it go.
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Great color combo Pete. Are those wipers the same as the 56, with the dual switch for wide and fast as well as off and on?
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Rob, great pics! The Electra looks fabulous. I also liked that 69 Electra except for the wide whitewalls. That just does not mesh well. Why do some people insist on putting wide whites on everything prior to 70?
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Isn't that something, 16 years I didn't even realize that.
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Doug, didn't the 87 Electra T Type have a higher final drive ration too. A 2.97 vs the stock drive ratio of 2.78? I thought that's what the Standard Catalog of Buicks said.
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Did you check the Riv site below? I think this is a common problem and they probably know what it will cost to fix it.
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As far as I know, there is only one choke stove pipe, from the exhaust manifold to the choke spring housing.
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Hey there Mike. Nice looking 56. I like the way the wheels push the tires out to the edge of the wheel opening. Gives it a meaner stance.
Bill Mitchells' 1956 Century X
in Buick - General
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Skyking, the car in the picture would be a Century. 3 things tip that off. 1 the wide chrome rear light bezels. Roadmasters have a skinny maybe 1 " wide taillight bezel. 2, the "C" beltline scoop under the rear window. The Roadmaster and Super does not have that. 2rd is the vent windows. Notice how they are narrower on the bottom than the top? The Roadie would have noticably rectangular vent windows.
The car in the picture appears to have Bucket seats, and a hard boot for the convertible top. Pretty cool. I wonder what the dynaflow would be like with 2 4's. Bet he broke a lot of reverse band struts with that baby.