JohnD1956
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Posts posted by JohnD1956
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There are differences, and the parts are not interchangeable. Of the two, the 3800 is the longer lasting motor. Of course, you can most always find a long lasting survivor in the 3.8 too, but I believe the 3800 has lots of long lasting engines.
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Thats cause it's his neighbors car. He just needs the money to fix his own car.
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Sorry to hear that your 89 is toast. I must have missed the thread on what happened? Anyway, lots of good advice here but what I also did not see is how you plan to use the car. Are you looking for something able to tow or with such massive room as a wagon, or a simpler grocery getter for days you can't drive the other cars you own?
Edit: I just saw your other thread. I hope you are okay. That sounds like quite a hit! Imagine, a 55 MPH crash and you could drive the Lesabre away. That would pretty much settle the question in this thread for me.
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I have heard that the engine vacuum is affected by changes to the camshaft. I don't know for a fact that is true. But what would you think of putting some sort of vacuum reservoir in there?
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The way I see it, you can't ever guarantee anything. As was mentioned, if they really want the car they will find a way to get it, so make sure you have enough insurance that you can walk away from the scene if it happens. I always try to remember that it's just a car. And unless it's fatal, nothing is permanent.
Now, if your with any friends, I try to park in a corner with their car blocking mine in. But most often I just park my car as close to my room as possible, and hope it's all there in the AM.
One last thing, unless you are at an organized meet, chances are no one will even know your car is where you leave it. I doubt many thieves are patrolling lots in search of a classic car. I'm sure they would rather have something guaranteed marketable.
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Whats the deal on the chrome master cylinder? It does not look like a 70 application to me. Something newer?
Since you went this far I'd suggest replacing that with a master cylinder for the car. My 69 Electra's master cylinder was around $25.00 from my NAPA store.
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Here's another lame brained idea.
Planning to do only one side at a time, lay a 2x12 perpendicular to the side frame rails, and lay a length of heavy chain under the 2 x 12 in the general area where it can be looped around the side rail , out of the way of the A frames. Roll the car onto the 2X 12 and then jack up the side you will do first, Support the frame on two jack stands, one fore, and one aft of the A frames. Note, the length of the chain should be sufficient to reach up and over the side rail when the frame is high enough to get the tire off and allow the lower A frame to swing. It should also be heavy duty chain and it might be a good idea to get two lengths to be used simultaneously.
Then place the floor jack under the A frame to complete the removal and re installation.
Theoretically the jack and the opposite tire would simultaneously hold down the 2x12 and the car frame while lifting the lower A frame.
Seems as though this would work, and then you might be able to use Strut Spring Compressors, which are much cheaper then a coil spring compressor. Again, as 54 Buick Doc says, not to do the whole job but just to assist in compressing the spring to take a little of the tension off.
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I was just reading about this process in the Buick Manual for my 78, and it calls for the lower A frame to be disconnected at the pivot bolts, not the ball joint. It also calls for the spring to be chained to the lower a frame running a simple loop up the inner and around the A frame itself.
Of course this is the 78, not the 54. But it also has limits on how much you can compress the springs, leading to concerns about proper use of spring compressors.
Here's an idea. Suppose you recreate the weight of the engine and transmission by afixing a 4x4 to the top of the frame and the opening of your garage door. Basically brace the 4x4 between to the beam above the door opening and then jack the frame up to it untill your A frame assembly raises sufficiently. Not sure of the measurements needed but pretty sure I'd be using some serious metal plates and heavy bolts where the 4x4 attaches to the frame and the beam.
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Good luck with the new car Bill. Hope it's a good as our 06 has been. These cars are great!
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He hates you.
LOL..... Good one!
My guess is the linkage needs some light lubrication with activation without the car running, just to make sure everything is free. I'd use PB Blaster especially where the linkages run through the carb body.
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BTW, I doubt you'd find another radiator that would just drop in there.
And what's a V core?
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Seems odd that without removing the heads or going deeper into the block that all of a sudden you'd have low compression in 3 cylinders, and 0 in one. Of course strange things can and will happen, but is there anything else that is common between the work done and what's happened? Any possibility of debris falling into the intake while the carb was off? If the carb was off for a while any possibility of a mouse nest or something else in there? How about loose carbon from opening and changing the exhaust passage cover? I guess that does not cover the blow-by, but I'd pull the carb and intake and see if there isn't something blocking the valves open on those weak cylinders.
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Good work. But I still like the open one.
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Oh man! Looky that thing! I would predict you'll be Electra-fied by this driving experience.
I love the Rivs, and all Buicks too, but 2 dr Electra's are in a class all by themselves. Still miss my 69. What a great car!
Good luck with her.
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Sid, I'll add my condolences on this event, but just out of curiosity, what work did the engine recieve over the winter?
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Have you tried Ken at Wheatbelt auto? I got a heater core for my 56 which looked so good I almost did not take it to the radiator shop to be checked. Turned out I could have saved that money as the unit was fantastic. Check the ad in the BCA magazine.
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Well, a 4 dr with an automatic probably does not need much to get her going, especially if it was run regularily in the last few years. Since you turned it around, does that mean you have had it started?
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Oh Man...is it a two door? or 4 Door? Automatic trans or stick shift. And where is it located?
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Mr. Earl...Maybe you could post a pic of the rear end in question, so someone with a car can better judge????
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You may find it helps to tap directly on top of the wrench while you are pulling to loosen the plug
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One more thing, if you are flooding I'd prop the choke butterfly open with a screwdriver and then crank it over to try and unload the excess gas.
NAturally I'd also check the engine oil to see if it was too contaminated with gas and should be changed.
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OK firing order rechecked completely removed and reinstalled distributor and points open at or just before TDC on number one cylinder; result....same...no firing yet. I had enough for tonight will try again tomorrow.
Oh noticed a puddle of gas on the floor (overflow from carb/intake) screwed the idle screws to close and then backed off a half turn. where should the be set at?
Thanks for the input keep it coming.
Assuming you have access to a compressor, I'd pull each plug and then blow out the cylinders to remove excess fuel. I'd also blow off the plug end and wire brush em, resetting the gap at .17 before reinstallation. Note, be careful of fuel sprayback by holding a shop towel over the air hose and plug opening.
Also, just for my own sanity, I'd check the negative coil wire where it goes through the distributor AND I'd also move all the wires inside the distributor to make sure none were touching any metal ( if possible).
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Sounds like the choke is sticking. The choke on my 78 is manual so your's should be as well. There are probably two vacuum pull offs for it ( on the passengers side, fore and aft of the carb) Check the lines and while the car is off at least easlily push the pistons in the units in, to make sure they are free.
Then shoot the linkage on both sides of the carb with PB Blaster and work the linkage manually to make sure it's all free on both sides of the carb.
During this check that the bolts holding the carb down are tight and look over the other vacuum lines for any swollen and falling off their port.
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Personally I would not have used WD 40. You'd be much better off using PB Blaster. A little squirt every day for a week, then put a small stiltson wrench on it with a length of pipe if needed.
Lots of Buicks for sale today at Texas swap meet
in Buick - General
Posted · Edited by JohnD1956 (see edit history)
:eek: Al...you looking for a whuppin???