JB-ed

When you guys are all done with this exercise, why don't you send me the photos and data for an article in the DBC News? This can be good stuff, both as the technique is perfected and as a source of all these parts. John--Editor

Do you have serial numbers? They made three (or four depending on how you count) different models in 1928 and value/interchangeability vary much. Contact the Dodge Brothers Club for more help--see their website or switch over to their forum on this site.

Your DA will not have a Clum switch, or at least not one that will use any keys the club is selling. One trick is to bypass the original coil just to get the car started and if you don't care for authenticity you can hide a modern coil under the dash where no one can see it. To bypass the original coil, leave the "Batt" wire where it is on the old coil. Then run a new wire from the "Timer" or "Dist" terminal of the old coil to the "Batt" connection of your new coil. This just uses the key switch to turn on the hot power to the new coil. Connect the distributor to the terminal of the new coil and of course plug the distributor hi-tension wire into the new coil. Remember your car is positive ground, so the "plus" terminal of your new coil goes to the distributor.

That's pretty much why I identified the site. More than one person has had that negative experience from this vendor. Try Roberts Motor Parts for better and more Dodge-friendly service and parts.

Restoration Supply sells brass new ones @ $14.70 each to fit 1/8 pipe plug. Fairly high price but there they are: restoration@rsc.reno.nv.us You can also plug the holes with pipe plugs until you get good used ones.

How about your engine number? It ought to be about 50,000 higher than your frame/toe-plate number. Regarding that number, the numbers you are finding to be the same on the frame and toe-plate are actually the car's serial number. The "body" number is stamped on the firewall somewhere and will not agree with the frame number, as Rodger is saying. You are OK having the toe-plate number and frame number the same. Now we need your engine number to help determine what you have here. Get a copy of "The Dodge Story" for a photo reference that may help you decide what you have. Beware that this book has many errors in the text, but the photos are good reference.

...and while at the museum be sure to take a good look at the MODIFIED ROD next to the diner downstairs. Here we go again. Will this happen to a car I donate to the museum?

Getting back to the guy with the 1914 Dodge bros. Can you give us the serial number? This will help us identify it and also help you restore it or look for parts.

Try contacting the DA tech advisor for the club, see Page 2 of any issue of magazine. Also contact Glenn Smith on his website (also in magazine) He reproduces these handles and surely must know how they come off.

A Standard Six touring car in America would be quite rare and desireable. I am not sure they even sold one here. The Victory Six, also made by Dodge in 1928, sold some touring cars in USA and today they are quire rare here. Depending on the condition of your car, it could be worth from about $15,000 to as much as $30,000 (the latter value for a #1 show quality car). You do need to evaluate all systems for condition and subtract from the price you pay any cost of needed parts and labor. In comparing your prices with US prices, you also need to determine if your car has a Budd body or a body fitted in another country. While this may not effect value in your country, and certainly does not decrease value in, say, Australia or New Zealand where bodies were installed there as a matter of course, it may decrease value in other locations if not a Budd body. You probably need someone in your country to assist you specifically on value if the price you quoted is very high in your currency.

also check the flapper valve at the bottom of the inner tank. It must have clean seating surfaces. Check by gently holding that valve closed and fill upper tank with gas while holding in your hand. The flapper should seal with very little pressure. If it drips it's dirty. You'll have fun putting the upper thank back into the lower one, but this and the seat-work you already did is about all there is to vacuum tank "rebuilding."

In the realm of modest cars of the 20s and 30s sold the usual way, person to person, we in the Dodge Brothers Club are finding that prices are indeed hedging up gradually, year-by-year, after everything crashed eight years ago or so when those who were manipulating the market dropped out. A $5,000 to $8000 #3 car two years ago is now selling in the $9000-12,000 range. This is based on actual sales, not hopeful prices in advertisements, as we are seeing in our club. Personally, I am not convinced that this is good. The hobby was fun again a few years ago and may return to the greed and deceitfulness of a decade ago as prices go up again. Fortunately, this time the increase may be a true market increase and not an artificial manipulation.

... and "22" is what, your age? (or year you were born, heh, heh)

Thanks for the tip on Aberdeen, but unfortunately that is a 1918 car not Pershing's 1916 car, and it's painted and numbered ala WW-2, not WW-1. There are several other "Pershing" cars floating around, each one of them is a 1918, not his 1916 Daisey. All painted and numbered wrongly.

Is it right'hand drive or left? If you are selling RHD in the USA you need to reduce price some to allow the buyer to pay for the conversion. Also of course condition means everything. If this car has been driven hard, it will need serious restoration of all mechanicals. I have a touring Victory from Argentina that must have had 300,000 miles on it based on wear and tear plus the many many alterations over the years to keep it running. Needed total restoration and some of the mechanical parts were worn beyond repair.

Can anyone lead me to a modern formula for the correct olive drab paint for a World War One vehicle? My Dodge Bros staff car is close to the final paint job but no one seems to have a clue to the real formula except to say "it's not WW-2 O.D."

Check with our tech advisor for DA but I believe DA was all chrome outside, nickel inside. Bocy colors depend on body style and serial number. They ran colors in batches for blocks of serial numbers. Tech advisor has these lists.

Not if it had a temperature gauge on the instrument cluster as this would be redundant. By 1930 the Motometer was looked upon as pretty old-fashioned either way.

You should have posted this at the Dodge Brothers forum. Depending on which model of 1929 you have, the paint colors were done in batches which we determine from your car's serial number. That firewall number is probably a Budd body number, the code for which has been lost or never known beyond Budd.

You also need to be sure you used new copper gasket washers at all the fitting points, expecially at the noses of the brake hoses. most sellers of repro hoses fail to give you a pair of washers that fit over that tip of the hose end fittings. With all the proper washers in place you ought to be able to bleed the system with vacuum. Also dont forget the check valve at the front of the master cylinder.

....oh yeah, and take some hand cleaner and paper towels. maybe a work jumper suit if you need to crawl around in the dirt.

I'll bet the "3" was a typo, should be "5". But "special" was a trim option, as described above.

The others covered the bases well. Remember if you do run out of gas, you need to prime the vacuum tank before it will work after running dry, so be sure your wrenches will open up the incoming fitting and be sure you have a funnel, siphon hose, or some means of getting a pint of gas in the vacuum tank. Otherwise, the best tool I have for these trips is my AAA card and a cell phone (or 25 cents).

If you have your original carburetor with the internal "guts" go to website vintageandclassicreproductions.com where you can see about buying a reproduction housing, throttle body, and float cover. These are all machined and good to go. The Dodge Bros Club places batch orders to the USA from Australia, next deadline May 1st. I have three cars (Victory Six) running with the UX-2 version of these reproductions and they are great.

I want to emphasize from my above message, the cast-in numbers you are finding are part numbers, not serial numbers. The serial numbers were stamped with metal stamps and are recessed. This is the number you need. You willneed to clean ages of filth off the block and chassis to get to these but they are worth having. They will help you locate parts and virtually enerything else you need to do for this project. The company made changes all throughout the model years and you need the number toknow which side of these changes you are on.