gungeey

The Buick 310 had a 2 bbl. Someone may have changed the intake/carb/ air cleaner canister to the HI-PO version of the 300 (11:1 Compression) and left the air clearer top original, or put a 310 decal on the 4bbl lid.Steve

Don't know where you've been looking, but for starters you can check out these 4 items currently being auctioned off at ebay...Don't get much better than this>>>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1868474202 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1868237156 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1868573490 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1869309592

It's called a dual-stage vacuum diaphragm. It controls the fresh/recirculated air door opening. In case you hadn't noticed, there's a second one under the blower motor!!! for the outside air/heat mixture. Get 'em at www.oldairproducts.com ..U may not be able to order this online the # is (817)531-2665 Let me know what they are charging...I'm curious...they USED to be $90.(ea).STeve

Try Doug Badgerow.................he's in your neck of the woods.......... 2112W Shady Glen Ave Phoenix,AZ 85023 (602)547-1093 He's Arizona Regional Coordinator w/ Buick Owners Assn. I have dealt w on numerous occasions. Good honest man. tell him Steve from Mass says "HI"!

Nope (on both!) the owner didn't know if it was from A Buick or an Olds. So be it, an least it's 75% NOS. Ho many more times will I be using the A/C on a 1965 Riviera any way!! Thanks for your help, Steve

I always thought it a bit fishy that someone would paint a car, then quickly sell it...makes me skeptical that there's something lurking just undeneath. Remember the saying: "Putty and paint make a car what it ain't" Steve

Would like to get this so I can refurbish fuel system during the winter.Surface rust OK, must be dent free. Thanks, Steve gun-G@excite.com

I would like to be part of the bidding process. Am not a current BCA member but do hold membership to the unofficial sister organization, the ROA. Please send me an issue that would exemplify the work you'de like to endeavor, if possible. I work with perhaps the foremost commercial/financial printer in our country and would do my best to offer the best possible pricing, and highest possible quality and meet your deadlines! Please contact me through personal email. hows that for an unsolicited, grovelly plug! Steve

Joey, where in MA are you? I'm in the Framingham area...any Buick car clubs in your area?

Yes that would be great! If possible, before noon...not trying to sound bossy, I'll be on a flight home from the piece soon after that. Thanks so much for your offer to lend a hand.I'm trying to replace all parts on the system with NOS while the freon is out. So far have new hoses(custom made to replicate original to a "T"), muffler, dehydrator, STV (NOT easy to find!)and all vacuum diaphragms for the heater/cooling doors. Both the condenser and evaporator are OK as is. Compressor is rebuilt. If I could get that expansion valve replaced while I'm changing the hoses under the dash it would just be perfect!Steve

Here's some more info...it's group number 15.539 part number 5910729 Can someone verify that is for a '65 Riv? Looks right,which doesn't mean much to me! Maybe that makes it easier to look up?! Thanks

Can anyone tell me the part # for an expansion valve (A/C part) for a '65 Riviera? I think I've located one, but need to be sure before spending the $$$ Thanks in advance!STeve

Don't know what a 400 is in a '65 Riviera. The options were a 401, a 425 4bbl and a 4x2bbl 425 (known as the Super Wildcat engine) Check with NADA's online site, and they further complicate matters by making a deduction if it's a 6 cyl model!!No such animal. Hemmings AVERAGE asking price over the past 2 months has been 7800. '65 Rivs on ebay in what appears to be nice condition (between 3's and 2's, judging by the pics)auction off for 8-12K. The buyers also have to contend with shipping, another expense and consideration. I actively searched for 3 years to find a solid clean car with no plastic filler. The Super Wildcat will add to the value of the car, there was also a Gran Sport option offered on the '65. The advantage you have buying from a friend is the ability to get the inside scoop on the cars more pressing needs. Steve

Push it out from combustion chamber side while turning counterclockwise from outside. My 2 bits is to pull the head if you are in love with this car and it's a keeper. if it's a beater, I'd tap the hole as it sits, then hook up some ¼" tubing to the suction end of a pump and get rid of as many chips as I could. Taking that head off is no small job.

I'd say there's a load of great thoughts here, the only thing about the "Timing on the Wrong Front Cylinder Theory" is the low compression readings. Wrong firing order would be of no consequence.

Fuel is undoubtedly NG unless someone put stablizer in the tank. Even then, i think the shelf life is one year. Removee the plugs and squirt a couple shots of oil in each cylinder. Leave plugs out and hook up a battery and spin the engine. Step 2, fuel it up. You might have a problem on your hands here ie a tankful of no good gas. Spray some starter fluid down the carb and see if she kicks over.If it dies when the curent gas reaches the carb, you'll have to get rid of the old gas. I'd take a couple quarts at a time and add it to my daily driver, till I can get mostly new gas in there.. Might take a little time. As far as the value...well, I'm no Chevy expert, but if it's N I C E (very nice w/ A/C and a 2 door)and someone offered you 2K I would be tickled.Good luck

You're right! ...I remember the same set-up in my '64 Skylark. Chunks of gear at the botom of the oil pan. I remember the symptoms well. The starter could spin like crazy...the valvetrain was far enough out of time that the cylinders couldn't make proper compression. When it did fire up, it coughed , kicked and backfired w/ lurching, no drivability in general. Sounds like I'm knocking the Skylark? I hope not. One of the best cars I ever had. Was a daily driver that gave me No problems except for the chain. Steve

This sounds veery much like a timing chain at the end of it's life. When you are attempting to start the car, does it spin fast and freely, but doesn't fire up ? That would explain your fouled plugs( by the way, Champion plugs will work just fine in a nailhead)The erratic compression readings, backfiring are all symptoms.What happens id the timing chain stretches over time. The rivets holes enlarge, and that develops the slop you are now dealing with.

Try "Udder Balm"( contains lanolin) on the vinyl...makes it soft and pliable...as for the scratches, couldn't you just try a black majic marker/ sharpie?

I believe www.classicbuicks.com has them. Currently they are relocating. I wouldn't be too quick to toss the old one. The replacements are Flimsy.

Must be 2 gauge black with pigtail and correct connections at grounded end (along w/ approx 1" rubber sleeve) and field ground at regulator. Bolt type battery connector. Alternator is 55 amp Part# 1100709 Starter Part# 1107313 Maybe I'm dreaming, but hey, it never hurts to ask!Steve

Start searching for vintage auto salvage yards in your area (Junk Yards)

looks like a fun car! Keep posting pics as the work progresses. Steve

Trying out the board...