TCParts

I have writtten a number of articles on the TC ABS system - the TC America newsletters have the articles from myself and Hemi Anderson, as well the shop manual has a complete diagnostic section on the system. I would recommend reading the articles and also reading through your shop manual to understand how the system works, so you can understand what the mechanic was trying to do. It does not take very long.

Now you know what I have been doing the last 7 years to gather TC parts. It is very time consuming, frustrating, puts a lot of miles on my vehicles and pretty much goes unappreciated.

I got one from a local dealer not too long ago. Just check the dealers near you - just because it is NS1 does not make it impossible to find!

The Mopar Performance SMEC fits perfect and gives more boost than the Daytona or Lebaron ones.

I was on a leather restoration and demonstration team for the TC America national Meet in Scottsdale, AZ. Over a year we used Color Plus and Leatherique products - both were a real pain to use and took a lot of time to restore the leather (to do it properly you have to sand and fill the leather). The results were both good - the Leatherique products worked better in our opinion. In the end, we recommended buying either the armrest from Karleen at the club or having the leather replaced as the number of hours needed to make the leather look like new was not worth the time. We understand however, that some people have more time then others!

The extensive section in the TC shop manual on how to diagnose the ABS system may not help you too much. Unfortunately, your intermittent problem does not fit into one of their diagnostic "molds". If brake and clutch cleaner on the sensors and cogs do not solve the problem you may need the "Miller tool" mentioned in the book to pinpoint the problem. I have a couple of them so contact me if you need further help.

Have you checked your accumulator condition yet? The service manual has a complete, easy to follow diagnostic chart for the ABS system. In cases where the yellow anti-lock warning is sporadic, you may want to clean the cogs behind the wheels where the sensors are. Sometimes dirt or small rocks can get caught and damage or confuse the magnetic sensor.

Depending on your build date, the lines are all different. Any auto parts store has the FI line and *proper* FI clamps. Just remove yours and match them up to the bulk lines the stores carry. If you look in your TCA newsletter index, Hemi Andersen wrote the sizes for the early 4cyl engine.

Todd, Make sure you include a copy of the certificate for destruction when you send out major parts, otherwise the buyers in many states will have their titles branded during inspection and render their cars un-sellable.

You *REALLY* need to join the TC America club and read the articles on the Teves ABS system. Also, get a service manual which has information to correctly diagnose and replace the ABS unit. It takes less than an hour to remove and the same to reinstall *if* you have proper Craftsman or similar tools. If you use cheap tools made overseas you will most likely round the nuts that attach the brake lines to the bottom of the unit. In addition, you MUST have your system flushed by a qualified (ASE Certified I always recommend) mechanic who has the proper equipment to R&R the fluid, inspect for leaks and dispose of the fluid properly. Personally, I would never recommend this for a DIY project. Pay a real mechanic to do what they are trained to do and it will usually cost you less in the long run. We sell *complete* remanufactured units with a 3 year warranty for $610. Less 10% if you are a fellow TC America club member, plus shipping and core.

If brake fluid is leaking on your feet it is not the pump. Most likely it is the actuator. Changing these out is an hour or so job and is not difficult. *Numerous* articles have been written about this system in the TCA newsletters and the service manual has an entire section on diagnostics. It is an efficient, reliable system if the required regular service is performed. In addition to selling ABS pumps and actuators,we also sell the complete remanufactured ABS system with warranty for a fraction of the cost of the dealer. Email or phone us. Larry

There *is* a published manual. It is the TC America club. Karleen puts out quarterly newsletters and sells all the back issues which answer pretty much every question you can think of about the TC. The club is also the sponsor of this forum. Karleen's email address is: TCClubCEO@aol.com

Alan, You guys in CA have the EZ "sniffer" test. Here in AZ we have the inspection (where they take a mirror to make sure everything is stock) plus the IM 240 test, which is 240 seconds on a dyno checking shifts, speed, and output of your car from idle to 75MPH for 4 minutes. CA regulations are *easy* compared to ours. No muffler/tailpipe modifications unless the exhaust results in *cleaner* air than what the car was designed for. No performance SMECs allowed here... Larry

First off, you should NOT have sprayed WD40 into your speedometer head. Your problem sounds more like a speed sensor issue which is on the top of the transmission. You could have "coded" your check engine light to determine if the speed sensor was giving a fault code. We do speedometer/odometer rebuilding, but you may now need an entire new head unit and circuit board if they were contaminated with the "Water Displacement" lubricant. I highly suggest you join the TC America club and read the back issues of the newsletter. There have been numerous articles written about the speedometer/odometer repair, how to determine what is wrong and how to fix it.

They need to have the "square" corners, not the rounded ones. My 1999 Caravan AM/FM Cass CD radio went into my TC in 10 minutes and sounds great.

Only the early built models have the side latches. Later build cars had improvements like no side latches, different seat material and design, top pull-down changes and numerous cosmetic and suspension changes.

The CD/Cassette units fit in the TC just fine, as do the CD alone or the cassette alone - I put them in my good TCs. You can get them on e-bay or as takeoff's from dealers. They sound great and don't take up the 'cubby' storage like the original factory units.

The TC America club sells a hardtop lift. Contact Karleen, the sponsor of this forum.

Have you ever heard a TC with a bad muffler? You *need* a muffer with the TC if you have any consideration for your neighbors.

Information in Michael Organ's "The TC Pages" is over 3 years old. New and better solutions are now available via tuners and information in the TC America newsletter. Before making modifications to your TC I suggust all TC owners get more up-to-date information.

Alan is right. The manual release is not designed to be used as the "normal" mode of release, nor should the hardtop be removed or installed without a second person. If you push too hard on the manual release, the assembly bends so instead of $100+ for the motor, housing and gear, you will also be paying for a new mechanism. Chrysler's low list price is $750. Used ones are less of course. Karleen at the TC America club (the sponsor of this forum) sells very nice hardtop lifts and roll-around carts for the hardtop.

The owner's manual top supplement has instructions which are not the best, but the TC America newsletters contain instructions how to remove the hardtop and stow the softtop without breaking the very expensive rear window. Check your back issues. There are numerous sources for both the instructions and also the top pull-down motor which may need replacing if the top pull-down release does not work. A manual release is also available via the trunk. Larry

No "new" carpet can copy the Pentatrident logo on the driver's side floor. Used carpet in excellent condition is available from a number of sources. Larry

Actually, no TCs were built in 1991 either. All 1991's were leftover 1990 models. The last TC off the line in Italy was in the spring of 1990.

Your best bet would be to sell them on ebay. The last pair sold for $125 in Febuary.