TCParts

It is the black plastic part about 6inches by 12 inches, behind the battery, attached to the driver's side fender with two 8mm hex screws. You can see the large wiring connectors attached to it. Since you have to remove the battery, it takes about 10 minutes to remove it at the most. Larry

Pat, I have them available. You can contact me through my website at: www.TCParts.com Larry

Thomas, Costco sells tan or grey sheepskin seat covers for less than $40 each, which are of decent quality. Here in Phoenix the specialty stores sell sheepskins for up to $500 a set for the very highest quality ones.

No, you need to find the wire from the underside and turn the plasic retainer and then pull the retainer out. On the top photo (figure 4) it shows how to pull the bulb out from the back. If you need to replace the *entire* light assembly you then need to remove the bumper and UNSCREW the molding from the back side. Do not attempt to pull the molding off, as that will ruin it. Replacing the bulb should take less than a minute. Hope that helps, Larry

It depends on what year your car is. The 1989 wheels are different from the "airbag" 1990 and 1991s.

Certainly it *sounds* like a good deal, as long as it does not need valve seal/guide replacement, transmission work or body repairs like a very expensive right headlight.<BR>Larry

John,<BR>Only the 1989's without the airbag have the Momo wheel. If you take the leather off your wheel it exposes a brownish foam steering wheel. There is a place in Texas that recovers the wheels for around $200 and is suppose to do a very good job matching the colour and texture.<BR>Larry

The brackets can easily be reattached to the glass by using "GE Silicone II" which can be found at your neighborhood ACE or Home Depot. That is what the top shops around here use to reattach metal to glass. Just clean the surface well, apply the silicone according to the instructions on the tube and clamp it in place for 24 hours. Be VERY careful clamping, and do not clamp directly to the glass, use wood or cardbord as a buffer. If you overtighten the clamps and break the window you will be looking at a very expensive new window. So far I know of none that have needed to be reattached after using this product.<BR>Good luck,<BR>Larry

I have had a number of inquiries regarding parts and service for the ABS system. The TC system is very similar to the system used in the Reatta, Bonneville, 6000 and a few other GM models. I have contacted a company in Texas that rebuilds the units for the GM cars and they said that they can rebuild the system in the TC for around $500. This is substantial savings off of a Chrysler repair, and a whole lot less than the horror stories of $3,900 to $5,000 that other TC America members have been charged to repair their systems. Although I have not needed to rebuild one myself, a friend had his GM done and is quite happy with it.<BR>In the future I may stock these rebuilt units if demand is great enough.<BR>The company is:<BR>Prior Remanufacturing<BR>315 International Road<BR>Garland, TX 75046<BR>(800)444-4821 <A HREF="http://www.priorreman.com" TARGET=_blank>www.priorreman.com</A> <BR>Person I spoke to: Rick<BR>If anyone uses tham please report back your results!

Steve,<BR>There still are a number of factory TC windshields still out there. I have about ten, and I know a few other people that have a number of them too. A "purist" would deduct $1,000 or more from the value of a pristine TC without the pentatrident logo, even it had the Lebaron factory glass. Of the people at the TC America national meets I have been to, it seemed that a large number of them with the non-factory windows had air or water leak problems. I have not heard of any problems with the factory replacement ones yet however. One of my 16v's has a non-TC windshield and it is the only one of my TCs that leaks. Unfortunetly, I bought the car with that windshield already installed. At some future point I'll put a correct one in. I would certainly encourage a TC owner to purchase original parts if available, especially if it is a low mileage or pristine condition car. If my daily driver (which is far from pristine) ever needs a new windshield, I would certainly get the non-original type and hope the installer puts enough sealant around the edges to prevent a leak!

Steve,<BR>Regarding the notable parts comment - the TC windshields are quite different form the Lebaron ones. The TC windshields not only have the Pentatrident logo and better blackout edge cover, they also don't leak air and water like many of the Lebaron ones windshild companies have stuck in some TCs.