rocketraider

To verify a 1968 W34 Toronado- 111 built so it's not common at all, and wasn't called GT until 1970. *Outside air induction scoop and flex air duct from aircleaner to left fender. This also includes a special smaller windshield washer jug. *Vacuum switch on LH radiator tank *Dual exhaust w/notched bumper and chrome extensions *Code OM TurboHydraMatic There is some discussion whether the Y70 painted pinstripes were part of the W34 option. Of the 111, I've seen 7 with original paint, and all had it. All 9 I've seen had chrome wheel option too, but from info I have that was not part of W34. Buckets/console were available on all 1968 Toros and not limited to the W34. If it's a bucket seat W-Toro, very rare. If it's in good condition w/ original drivetrain, nice car to own. One from Maine was on ebay last week and although it was WAY overpriced, it is real- I found the car for him in NC several years ago and everything was still intact. He found a nicer one, and just got downsized at LL Bean, so one of 'em's gotta go.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The 1st line of the cowl tag is ST7034267LAN249214 2nd line is TR992 (At far left) BDY (At far right) 3rd line 10A (At far left) - B (At far right) There is a dash before the "B" on the third line and the car is a Black Top Convertible.</div></div> 70= 1970 model year 3= Oldsmobile Division 42= Cutlass Supreme 67= GM-speak for convertible LAN= Lansing car assembly 249214= Fisher body job number (this doesn't always match the VIN) 992= green vinyl notchback bench seat interior 10A= built 1st week of October 1969 - = a special non-standard paint code, possibly from another GM division or carline B= black convertible top Toronado had an exclusive color called Ming Jade, code 46, and some of the other Divisions had their own medium metallic greens too. It'll be on the build sheet if you can find it.

ThermAC is the thermostatic air cleaner. The vacuum source for it is a manifold fitting behind the carb. Yup- it's been a hateful winter here in the Commonwealth. Below normal cold temps (global warming my arse), five ice/snow storms with heavy tree and powerline damage, and now the ground is saturated to the point a stiff breeze will push a tree over. Guvnah Warner's drought should be over, I think. I used to laugh about people who moved south for winter. Now I understand.

Entirely possible. Is the TCS stuff still on the top of the engine? The whole system may have been disabled as it wasn't held in very high regard in those days. But with the prices NOS or even decent working used TCS solenoids are going for... 1974 parts book shows p/n 6462514 as SWITCH, trans oil pressure spark control (on trans case), 1970-72 TH 350. It sold for $2.16. Look at it this way- at least you don't have to fight the 442 crowd for the TH 375/400 switch, so you may find one priced reasonable.

1975 shop manual wants 20 degrees BTDC @ 1100 rpm for a 350-4bbl Olds engine, with distributor vacuum advance hose disconnected and plugged, air cleaner removed and manifold vacuum fitting for ThermAC plugged. I always thought some of those early HEI basic timing settings were awfully high, but the spec shows a total advance of about 39 degrees at 4000 rpm which isn't excessive. Actually almost lazy, considering I used to time my points engines at 8-10 degrees base @ 650 rpm, then curve the distributor for 36-38 degrees total by 3200 rpm. Sometimes when I could get really good gas, I'd take it up to 14 or so. Good luck, and if you think 20 is too much, drop it to where you're comfortable and engine still runs well. The old trick of setting timing for highest idle vacuum still works.

I'd say you did ok. The last one of those tops I had done, back around 1994 or so, was over $600 then with a plastic window (which I used because the glass ones kept pulling loose from the back curtain). I like the 71-75 GM 'verts, but those damn scissor tops <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> will keep me from ever owning another one.

Beside the PNT code on the cowl tag, there should be two 2-digit numbers or a 2-digit number and a letter. The first set of numbers is the lower body color. The second set or letter is the upper body color, or vinyl or convertible top color. B codes to a Black convertible or vinyl top. If it's a medium metallic green, that sounds like code 45 Aspen Green. Code 48 was Sherwood Green which was dark. Occasionally you'll see XX or -- in the paint code. That codes as special order non-standard color paint.

I got one off the Snap-On truck a few years ago. As I recall it's not made by Snap-On. Works great though. Eastwood may also have it.

In the CSM- look at page 6C-16 fig. 6C-19, and at page 6C-19 TCS vacuum and electrical schematic and you'll see the TCS wiring harness routing. There should be one dark green wire running to the top bar of the "T" plug. A Turbo 350 transmission has no electric downshift, and the backup light switch is inside the car. The TCS switch is on the RH side of the T350 transmission case, forward of the dipstick tube. The JL transmission was used many years and you may have a later one as all 1970 cars had TCS. Look on the servo cover and there should be numbers stamped into it along with the tranny code. A 1970 transmission will have 70 stamped into the servo cover.

Rebelsport, if you put a connie kit on there you'll have to get truck license! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

The engine itself will pretty much drop in place using the original 350 perches and motor mounts. However...( <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />) the 350 trans may not last long behind the torque of a 455 unless it's rebuilt and beefed up a bit; you'll definitely need to upgrade the radiator to keep it cool; and if it's an a/c car a 455 is a tight fit at the heater/a-c box. You may need some 455 bracketry too though I think the stuff interchanges those years. If you change over to a Turbo 400 or 375, you'll have to shorten the driveshaft and use a T-400 front yoke. Crossmember can be relocated for the 375/400 trans.

I doubt you'll find any TPC tires with the correct whitewall. Closest thing I can think of offhand is the Firestone 721 with about a 1.5" to 2.00" stripe depending on tire size. Seems there's never been a time since radial tires were introduced that Firestone hasn't had problems. Way back around 1974, the original "500" radial tire was the subject of one of the biggest recalls ever (bigger than the Wilderness A/T mess, just not as litigious- it was a more civil world back then). An uncle had them on a 1972 Torino wagon and didn't have to buy a tire for that car well into the early 1990s. "500" and Wilderness brouhaha notwithstanding, I'm eventually gonna put a set of 721s on the 98 for the whitewall, and the Hurst will get a set of Firehawk Indy 500s in a couple weeks. Is there any more appropriate tire for an Indy 500 Pace Car replica? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

A corollary thread for outlandishly priced parts ain't a bad idea either. One outfit in California (name withheld to protect the guilty) is rapidly attaining legend status in the Oldsmobile world for their opening bids/buy-it-now prices on NOS Oldsmobile stuff. <span style="font-weight: bold">AND IDIOTS ARE BUYING IT!!!</span> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> I mean, $99 for a 73-77 Cutlass ashtray? Mebbe I should start selling off all me NOS junque.

Good lord, boy, the top frame was worth that! Wish ya luck- it's a song seldom seen. Can't imagine what it'll be like finding parts.

Anything that will work on a 350 will work on a 330. All 64-76 Olds small blocks are basically identical except early 1964 330s have rocker shafts. Edelbrock makes a nice matched cam/intake/carb package for the SBO. You can use a HEI distributor or convert the points distributor to an aftermarket electronic ignition setup such as Pertronix, Jacobs or Mallory Unilite. Headers, low restriction exhaust and an open element K&N air filter will also wake up the little 330. They already have a near bulletproof bottom end with their forged crankshafts. Though to be honest, some of them were already rated at 315 horsepower.

www.fusick.com or www.steelerubber.com are good sources for this stuff. Be warned it ain't cheap for the big cars, especially convertible roofrail rubbers.

It will be either on a metal data plate underhood or on a label in the trunk. I think most of those trunk labels are on the underside of the trunk lid.

I think it's because only a few of us have them. You really want to get scared, go over on the oldspower.com board where they think an 80s 307 is a hot engine <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> even though, all things considered, it is comparable to the original 303 in all respects. 394 vs nailhead? We know what the early 60s Gassers were running. 'Tweren't no Buick.

That's exactly what the Gray Ghost is- parts chaser, work car, junkyard car, Carlisle car- you name it, it does it. Old ex-Diesel beast that currently has about 270k miles on it, and from what I was told, that's about right on its 75 gas 350 too. One timing chain, one transmission job, and I have had to replace most of the HydroBoost II components due to leaks- I swear I think Chevy had a hand in designing those systems as much as they leak. Overall a good car that doesn't require much maintenance and goes when I ask it to- which is more than I can say for the others. They often give me crap when I try to start them after they've sat idle for a month or two. Yah, I know- drive 'em and they'll run right...

Standard Motor Parts has a limited selection as does AC-Delco. Otherwise I'm afraid it's junkyard time, especially for some of the odd-shaped or multi-wire pieces.

All Olds V8s were blue starting 1975. Look at the bottom left corner of the heads. If there is a number (8) it is a 350. Letter (J) indicates a 455. You can look at the 5th character of the VIN and tell what it came with. 3G35K****** should be right for a 2-seat Cutlass wagon with 350-4bbl. Substitute T for K if it's a 455. H35 would indicate a Vista Cruiser based on the Supreme platform. 45 is a 3-seat wagon. Enjoy the car! If I'd listened to the "experts" I wouldn't have my Regency. I truly enjoy driving that car, and have since found out it is the earliest built 1976 Oldsmobile known to be still on the road in the USA. Job #1808 built at Linden NJ, 1st week September 1975.

Unless it's a super low mile loaded 455 car, $5k is a little out there. Conversely, if it's as nice as you say, it ought to be worth $3k easy enough. $500 would be an insult and tells me yer buds are only into whatever's popular that will turn over quick. Then again, they may be totally aware that wagons are coming on strong in the collector and street machine market and may be trying to lo-buck it to make an outrageous profit. If you like the car, make the guy a good faith offer of $2500 and see if he'll take it. It will for sure be something you don't see on every street corner, and you can put a set of Super Stock II wheels on it and have a sharp cruiser.

Cadillac kept this gadget into the 80s. Chevrolet and Pontiac discontinued it around 1966 due to low installation rates, and Buick and Oldsmobile offered it dealer installed 67-70. They finally discontinued dealer packages in 1970. Reason? Reflective highway signs! If you ever see a GuideMatic or Autronic Eye encounter one, you will swear it is possessed! Lo-hi, lo-hi, constantly until the car has passed the sign. And then start all over again the next one it sees. I have seen Lincolns as late as 1978 with the eye pod mounted on the left front fender. Caddy started hiding them in the grilles or at the leading edge of the front fender crown molding in the early 60s.

I've seen these on 1959 Fords and 1959-60 Thunderbirds. I don't ever remember seeing them on a 1963 Ford, though they used the red/white/blue scheme with a stylized crown in the center plastic- and the crown had three of these lions passant guardant (heraldic terms for crouching with one paw claws outstretched and facing viewer as if guarding the family arms). I believe 1962 XLs had a different version of these as center for the standard full wheelcover, with the lion on a black background. Ford used the lions as early as 1950 on their tri-colored shield badges- a lion in each color division. Emblems for connie kits were often different than the wheelcovers. Chryslers had a golden lion rampant- standing on hind legs with paws raised in fighting position. Yes dammit, heraldry is another interest.

I think there's still one of these things in South Boston VA. A little foreign car shop had it for years. Same shop had a bathtub Packard for a long time too. It's been a couple years since I've been in that part of town.