rocketraider

You'll have to change the ball joints and tierod ends to 73-later parts in order to fit the 1975 spindles to the 1967 car. Other than that, it is pretty much a bolt in swap if the Eldo is a vacuum power booster car. Hydro-Boost stuff is a bit different. From the donor car, get: -spindles -calipers and m/c (for cores) -vacuum booster -proportioning valve -steel lines for front of car incl lines from m/c to prop valve (you should be able to get repros from Inline Tube if they wring off) -ball joints and tierod ends if you feel comfortable with the used stuff, though I'd use new ones -the disc brake compatible wheels from the Eldorado. 67 Toro used both disc and non-disc type wheels NEW rubber hoses. Think that covers everything. Good luck.

Here is something that is going to blow your mind. Although coupe and convert decklids are different, 1965 B-body Oldsmobiles use the same decklids in all series. Parts book sez: 1965 J88, D88, Delta, S/fire, J/Star I Holiday Coupe, pn 4507192 1965 J88, D88, Delta, S/fire exc Holiday Coupe, pn 4507189 Meaning- a FOUR-DOOR SEDAN decklid will work on yer convertible! and god knows there were plenty of those built. Of course, if you have a coupe decklid handy, this info don't help much <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />.

We always did it with air shocks, though that made a hard ride. If you want to do it with springs, I think your best bet will be a set of either four-door sedan or station wagon rear springs. Sears used to sell what they called "Car-Go Coils" that were a variable rate spring and would jack up the back of the car a couple inches, but keep the ride.

Found today, in rough and rusty condition- a 1965(?) Wildcat GS 2dHT, bench/column, with a few salvageable parts including the Wildcat 465 engine/THM 400. Aluminum valve covers and chrome airfilter are intact as are the GS emblems on trunk and dash. Yard also has a 1963 Wildcat 4dHT with decent aluminum, 1962 LeSabre 4dHT with plenty parts left, 1958 Special 2dHT with some good stainless. Yard shows signs of closing- the guy said he'd sold off or crushed a bunch of older stuff in the last year or so, and there is a for sale sign at the gate. Travis Auto Parts 1304 Dabney Rd Henderson NC 27537 252-492-5859 Yard is near Oxford NC, which is right off I-85 about 25 miles north of Durham, and is not hard to find.

Sighting- today, in Travis Auto Parts near Oxford NC- nearly complete 1960 Montclair 4d that would have some good parts for this restoration. Windshield and RF door glass busted, RF door dented, but gawjus bumpers and chrome and space age dash completely intact. Engine/driveline is there. Car is showing 51k which judging from interior is probably actual. Even has Mercury script front rubber floor mat in near perfect shape. White outside/silver interior. This yard is showing signs of closing. Said a lot of older stuff had been sold off or crushed recently and there is a for sale sign at the gate. Travis Auto Parts 1304 Dabney Rd Henderson NC 27537 252-492-5859 There's some other interesting stuff in this yard. Partial listing- 1958 Edsel Ranger 4dHT, 1959 REO Gold Comet tractor, several early 60s Buicks including a 1965 Wildcat GS with Wildcat 465 engine still in it. 58 Caddy 62 coupe, couple of 52-54 Ford Crestline Victorias, 53 Chevy windowed sedan delivery, 60 Pontiac Catalina 2d sedan. Bunch of 65-6 Galaxies including some convertibles, 71 or 72 LTD ragtop. A few super-rusty 40s GM cars and a couple early 50s BelAir HT with good rear corner glasses Yes, a lot of it is rusty as hell but there are some salvageable parts on these cars and trucks. Worth a look if you're in the area. Oxford is right off I-85, about 25 miles north of Durham.

<img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I'd try a different brand of belt first, like a Gates Green Stripe. If it keeps on you need deep groove pulleys. Stock stuff wasn't designed for high RPM race duty. Also check the water pump alignment. I got a RB pump one time that the pulley flange was cocked and the car kept throwing belts until I saw the ever so slight wobble- three times in less than 100 miles of driving <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" />. Talked enough caca to the counter guy when I took it back that he finally threw in new belts and antifreeze just to shut me up.

Yup- it's for anti-squeak and water sealing. You should be able to find it at a body shop supply. Think it's called "body schutz" or medium-body sealer. I get some stuff at Lowe's building supply called "Strip-Calk" that works good in applications like this. Plumber's putty might work if you get the kind that doesn't dry out.

"Fully driven, seated, not stripped" is the only spec I've ever seen for valve cover bolts. Sgt Art has a good idea. A cordless screwdriver or adjustable torque drill at lowest setting would work here too. I've put many in a bench vise and used the jaws as an anvil to straighten the flanges. You'd think with 10 bolts, Olds valve covers wouldn't leak <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />. Just that many more points to leak at I guess!

That's a set you just don't see much. I've only seen a few cars with them, and one set of those was on a 63 Starfire that the geezer who had it swore was a 62- yes, the original VA title said 62, but the VIN and the car said 63! Notice how similar the design is to the SSIV? Just noticed who bought them- John and Donna Green are well-known Ontario Olds parts vendors who specialise in hard to find 68-72 442 stuff. And if I know John, he's got something in mind for these wheelcovers.

Scott, glad to see you back and with a good link on the SSIV. I've got a set on the Regency (so what if they aren't dead correct for a 76, they LOOK good, and that's the key. A fancy dan car like that needs fancy dan wheels to match its status as top of the line). The only drawback to them is that the special trim bands are often road-rashed. The 1977-79 Custom Chrome Wheel option for Ninety Eight and 403 equipped 88s used the same band, though that don't make 'em any easier to find! Parm, the diecast spinners are wheel covers. They were used 63-64 with each year having a different lucite center. Big, heavy caps with a diecast center that has three evenly spaced thick ribs and a background of narrower turbine fins. A very elegant wheel treatment that looks its best on Starfire/J-I/98 coupes and all the f/s four door hardtops. It was supposedly a Ninety Eight only thing in 63 as the Starfire used those rotten snap-in caps with the retaining clips. All for the sake of hiding an unsightly valve stem... <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> Am I the only one who has noticed that Olds wheel treatments ran the gamut from gorgeous to just plain ugly every year? The plain ones are always really plain and sometimes the fancy ones go for overkill.

Parm- the bolt-on caps and 65 centers won't be hard to find. The special wheels on the other hand...and the caps are useless without the wheels. I'll put it in perspective. I've been looking for a GOOD set of those wheels since 1985. I missed one good set during that time (and I still refuse to pony up for 1st class mail Hemmings), and found sets and odd singles here and there that were bent or rusted beyond being safe. Never have I found a complete set of 4 much less 5 in usable shape. And I was also on a notification list with three Olds parts locators in different parts of the country. So- I've decided that the factory wires or three-bar diecasts look just as good on my 64 Starfire as the beautiful bolt-on aluminums. I wish you luck. Any more I figure if the car didn't come with them, it's a fruitless search.

Also try LI/NYC Olds Club. All I have is a mailing address, 527 S. Pecan Street, Lindenhurst NY 11757.

Sam's Photofact radio manuals are on ebay frequently. Although these often cover several different manufacturers in the same booklet, they are accurate and were widely used by radio repair shops.

Before I went cutting kickpanels or metal, I'd check with a good custom car stereo shop about aftermarket kickpanels designed for 6-1/2" speakers. You see them on ebay for 64-5 A-body cars frequently, and odds are they're made for 68-72 also. Olds never used kickpanel speakers with their multiplex stereo radios to my knowledge- someone correct me if I'm wrong. Chev and Buick did, they were 4" with metal grilles installed right at the bottom of the kickpad. Check some of the Chevelle sites for pics. But I think I'd still look for some aftermarket pieces. Two reasons- better sound as the part is designed for best imaging, projection and durability, and you don't butcher your hard to find factory parts if you ever decide to undo things.

Though they're expensive, Just Dashes Inc can redo the vinyl skin on the 77 dash in the color you want. I think they have a website but can't remember the url. Where have you found repop 73-76 dashes? Mine is sticky and I could use a new one.

It's either a Dynamic 88 or a Super 88. Starfires and Ninety-Eights had four taillights. Starfires were 2-door only and Ninety-Eight rooflines were very different from the 88 series cars. Dynamics had short bodyside moldings that ended behind the doors. Supers had full length BSM. If molding clip holes are visible full length of the quarters, it is a Super 88. Another way to ID is look at the engine. All Super 88 had four-barrel carb "SkyRocket" engines. Dynamics generally had 2 barrel "Rocket" engines though both the SkyRocket and Starfire engines were available in them.

Well- a 305 is only capable of so much, and it's computer-controlled so that limits what you can do even more. The good news is that it is a small block Chevy, and there is probably more performance stuff made for that engine than any other in the world. Way to ID it- look at valve covers. If they are rectangular with four bolts it's a Chevy engine. Trapezoid shape with 5 bolts is a 307 Olds. These also could have 229 and 231 V6 engines which are obvious. You can always do the usual hotrod tricks- better exhaust will free up some horsepower, but ignition and carburetion are totally computer controlled and you would have to get a performance computer chip to improve those. You can go the displacement route too- a 350 or 400 small-block Chevy engine will drop in place of the 305 like it was made for it. On a four-door, I like to go stealth. Hot engine and tight suspension and brakes.

I've got Zone Office level copies of all the part #s associated with 1974-77 Y76 Marketing Group Car. Dated 7/1977. Will copy them if you want. PM me with mailing address.

Couldn't get the links to work, but a buddy has a 50s vintage Sears Allstate Kar-Kooler that he displays with his 57 Olds. Functionality? he says it might reduce a little temperature on the road, but is no substitute for an R12 A/C unit. That's the trouble with all of us. We've gotten spoiled to airconditioning. We never had it when I was growing up, and even though Mama has it now, she rarely turns it on. She'd rather have the windows open with a fan running. I tell her that with emphysema, she should run it, but she doesn't like it. Me on the other hand, turns it on <span style="font-weight: bold">early</span> in the year <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />.

Any parts store that has body shop supplies will have or can get the clips. You may also need screws to replace the weld studs that the clips originally attached to. My experience with a post-65 GM car is that the only way you'll stop fixed glass leaks is to pull the glass, do any metal repair needed, and then reset the glass in the opening with all new sealing material. A lot of time, work and expense, but it's the only permanent fix. My parents bought a 1969 Impala brand new, drove it home from the dealer in a rainstorm, and it was leaking front and back with less than 50 miles on it. The old man took it back several times and they'd gob black sealer around the edges which would stop it for a while, but it always started leaking again. With warranty about to run out, he took it back and told them to pull the glass and reseal it. When they pulled the glass, the butyl sealer tape was loose from the glass and pinchweld about 75% of the way around. It had never sealed properly at the factory. So- he got all new carpet and underlayment, seat covers and all labor at Chevrolet Motor Division's expense.

I just leave it in drive for all conditions. I have an original Hurst Dual/Gate shifter for SlimJim but don't know if I'll ever install it. That tells me the things had some performance potential. The one in the green Starfire works great, the blue one does the hucklebuck. It's possible the TV rod from carb to tranny could be out of adjustment causing the weird shifts, but these things are a different animal. The way Olds made their engine blocks, a Turbo HydraMatic case has to be modified to fit a 394 (or earlier) block. Couple of companies are doing it, and it's not cheap. Sometimes I think it would be worth it to get rid of the SlimJim/4GC combo <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />. Pontiac had the right idea on bolting them to the engine. SlimJims need a bellhousing to adapt to a Pontiac block. And that bellhousing just happens to be the same bolt pattern as a 1965-later Turbo HydraMatic. So the Pontiac guys have it made when their SlimJim quits. They can put a modern tranny in with no issues except driveshaft length and crossmember location. Booey.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">out right rude</div></div> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

That's the reason I put the cars in very few local shows, unless I'm asked by the sponsors to bring them. Even then I usually enter them as display only, because I know the politics of the local shows. The worst experience I ever had was at the hands of an AACA-trained judge, at a local show that included a "National Winners" display class. The Toronado had just come off a heady show season in which it won an OCA National First 1967-70 Toronado scoring 982 points out of a possible 1000, Best Oldsmobile at the Peach Blossom BOP, and 2nd Place Overall at Fall Charlotte AutoFair-Oldsmobile show division so I put it in that class (had not joined AACA at that time so had no AACA experience). Over the winter, it had developed a hand-sized paint blister on the right door which I had not had time to correct and honestly had not seen until the morning of the show, but the money was paid so it went. Well- guess what? At judging time (which I never understood why these cars were judged to begin with as it was advertised as a DISPLAY class), our friendly AACA-trained judge overlooked everything else about the car and zeroed in on that one paint blister, demanding to know how that car could possibly have won a National trophy with a defect like that? People who have known me for years told me they had no idea I could be that ugly to anyone. It bugged me, and soured me on AACA scoring for a while until I was told later that the guy saw that Toronado as a direct threat to his 1970 Monte Carlo's continued dominance of that show and wasn't about to let it outclass him, and had said so within hearing distance of several people. It amazes me what people will do to each other over a $25 trophy. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

The Kaiser-Frazer Club is usually sited next to the Olds Club at Charlotte AutoFairs so we've had the opportunity to check out a couple of Dragons as well as a Darrin. I think I can honestly say that had they had a contemporary OHV V8, they'd have put Lincoln out of business and given Cadillac a run for their money in the 1950s American luxury market. They are stunning cars, tastefully styled and appointed (well maybe except for the gaudy roof fabric, but it grows on ya when ya see it up close) and comfortable. That Continental flathead six hurt 'em- it was a good engine, but couldn't compete against Lincoln and Cadillac V8s and didn't even come close to Chrysler's Hemi. K-F had some interesting cars. Ever heard of a Virginian Traveler? Their mid-line four door sedan, with an incipient hatchback. The decklid folded backwards, and the rear section of roof raised up, then the seats made a bed. Install the included tent cover and walla! instant on-the-road lodging. Interesting that the General offered a similar setup for their X-body compact hatchbacks in the early 70s.