rocketraider

Thought it did... The two wires to the window motor are both hot wires, controlled by the window switch. You have a 12v source to the switch (the red/white stripe wire), then the switch directs it to the "up" or "down" motor winding. The motor grounds to the door structure thru its frame. So when you actuate the switch for "up", voltage travels thru the switch to the "up" winding and likewise for "down".

The power window and seat stuff is in the Fisher Body manual. If none of the windows work: First check the power accessory feed circuit breaker. It's at the top left of the fuse block, labeled "ACCSY-PWR RLY" and if it's bad, you can find one at a parts store. It's a 40 amp breaker and plugs in same as a fuse. This circuit is fed straight from the battery via the junction block on the firewall and is hot all the time. Next- check the "DIR SIG BACKUP" fuse at the fuse block. The ignition relay trigger is thru this fuse. The pink wire to the relay plugs into a terminal just to the left of this fuse. If it's unplugged windows won't work. This terminal and fuse are hot only with ignition switch "ON". Next check the ignition relay located behind the left kick panel. Three wires- check with relay plugged into harness. Orange/black stripe is the power feed from the circuit breaker and should be hot at all times. Red/white stripe is the relay output to the power window switches. Turn ignition switch on and check for voltage here with test light. If no voltage, then go to>>> Pink or tan is the trigger from the ignition switch. With switch on, there should be voltage here. If test light lights, ignition relay is bad. If it doesn't light, check fuse or plug as described above, or there's a break in the wiring somewhere between fuse block and relay. If relay is bad, you may have to find one in a junkyard. There should also be a junction block behind the left kickpanel that all the power accessory circuits (P window, P seats, P top) plug into. Power window circuit feed wire may have come loose here. If individual windows don't work, check the motor by running a 12v jumper to each terminal on the motor. Motor grounds to the door structure and the motor terminals are for up and down windings in the motor. You may find it will work one direction and not in the other. Check the switches by checking for voltage at the center post of the wiring pad (red/white stripe wire). The jumper across to each output wire. If motor works, switch is bad. If no voltage at red/white wire, there's a wiring or power feed problem. I've often found broken wires in the rubber conduit from door to body. If you have to replace motors, there's a neat trick for that too that will save you having to take all the regulator and linkage loose. If you have to replace motors, we'll go over that in a separate post.

Folks, this is a NICE car that deserves someone who appreciates 60s luxury. If I didn't have so many already...

I recommend Fusick or the other Olds-exclusive vendors over YO. These are the guys who are laying out the cash, effort and research to bring correct Olds repop parts to market. Support them. Not to mention YO's customer support is not what it was a few years back. Fusick's August 2002 Cutlass catalog lists 1970 455 cables in stock at $39 for the (+) cable and $45 for the (-), with correct OE type terminals.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">a cheap no-name radial</div></div> My experience is that most of these "no-name radials" you mention are made by the big tire companies. I have Regul Questas on my wagon, at 40k miles they're about half wore out and drive and handle well, and they're a midline tire made by... Uniroyal/Goodrich. The Ninety Eight also has them. Why buy the highest line tires for a car on which they'll dry rot before they wear out, when the lower-priced tire is made by the same company to the same standards? I have Mastercrafts on my 64 Starfire, made by Cooper Tire who have been around for ages. Correct size and whitewall, around $300 for a set of 5. You wanna know which brand of tire I've had more trouble with than any other? <span style="font-weight: bold">GOODYEAR.</span> Between the tire problems and the lousy customer service, I just won't even consider them anymore.

Personally, unless I was going for a 1000-point restoration or had to deal with emissions inspection, I'd leave it off and bypass the system totally. If you can get the switch cheap, you might want to get it just to have. But then I've seen the solenoid switches on the intake go for ludicrous money. What it does is delay vacuum advance to the distributor until the transmission is in high gear. This supposedly reduced emissions but also hurt performance compared to having full-time vacuum advance. I think we've visited the TCS on this site before, but if you're not completely sure about bypassing it or putting it back, we can walk you thru it again.

The only thing that comes to mind is an underdash street rod a/c unit like Vintage Air sells. Possible they might have a kit for the GM truck. Maybe it's the part of the world I live in, but I can't remember seeing a non-factory air vehicle for at least 20 years. Even the company work trucks have it now.

Do you need the water valve itself or the temperature switch ("thermal relay") that threads into it for a Tempmatic car? They're serviced separately. Most replacement water valves I've seen have provision for the switch. All the switch does is signal the programmer and blower relay when the coolant temp is 120 degrees or higher. The valve itself is vacuum operated. If you need to get the blower running, just jumper across the switch plug terminals until you can find the correct part. It's a shortcut and smacks of rigging, I know, but if you need the blower it'll work till you can do better.

Remove the cover plate under the steering column (4 screws). Then you can see the shift pointer attaching screw and the adjustment slot it moves in on the steering column. Put the selector lever in N or D, loosen the pointer screw, move the pointer in the slot to align with whichever position you're using as reference, then tighten the screw. Run shifter thru all ranges to check alignment and readjust if needed. You have to remove the plastic lower dash panels to get at almost anything behind them. The LH is fairly simple, take the steering column cover plate off and then 4 or 5 screws on the panel itself if I remember right, but the RH can get involved as it goes from steering column to right door. I had all that mess out of a 73 Delta ragtop I owned several years ago and seems like it consumed the better part of a morning. Same dash. Can't help ya on the fuse block. Maybe taking the LH lower panel out will make it easier to get back there.

Yah- we were worried about ya. Didn't want to hear that you'd survived the desert only to go down in a chopper crash. Stay stateside as long as you can.

Bump to top. Has anyone heard anything from him? Wayne Burgess?

They'll bolt on, just the ports are a little larger. I don't know about using a Toro manifold in an A-body. Seems like it would exit real close to the firewall and get into shift linkage clearance problems.

Henry, this may be different between the assembly plants. Harry Patterson's Omega Red 73 Delta ragtop built in Lansing has XX in the paint code.

Morning paper said a Blackhawk chopper with 13 aboard went down at Ft Drum Tuesday. Pat, are you alright?

Could also have had a Turbo 375 which was a little lighter duty unit than the 400, but was found mostly as a HD option behind 350 engines. You have a good transmission. They're almost impossible to destroy. Trouble is, a 400 has been obsolete for over 15 years now so it's almost as bad to get one done right as a Slim Jim. Younger tranny guys esp don't seem to understand them. But then they're used to working on electronic transmissions and transaxles.

Take it to the dealer! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Yup, the motor mount has to come off. Take the PS pump loose from the block, then you can get the hidden motor mount bolts off and replace the belt. You'll need a floor jack or some other means of supporting the engine while you do this. A buddy just did this job on a 2000 Bonneville. This guy has an auto tech school degree and all kinds of ASE patches and manages an Advance Auto, so he understands car, but he sez if he had it to do over, it would go to the dealer. Local Buick dealer puts two men on this job for four hours. Makes ya wonder what the GM wunderkinden were thinking, don't it? Of course, I've wondered about that for the last twenty years...

To verify a 1968 W34 Toronado- 111 built so it's not common at all, and wasn't called GT until 1970. *Outside air induction scoop and flex air duct from aircleaner to left fender. This also includes a special smaller windshield washer jug. *Vacuum switch on LH radiator tank *Dual exhaust w/notched bumper and chrome extensions *Code OM TurboHydraMatic There is some discussion whether the Y70 painted pinstripes were part of the W34 option. Of the 111, I've seen 7 with original paint, and all had it. All 9 I've seen had chrome wheel option too, but from info I have that was not part of W34. Buckets/console were available on all 1968 Toros and not limited to the W34. If it's a bucket seat W-Toro, very rare. If it's in good condition w/ original drivetrain, nice car to own. One from Maine was on ebay last week and although it was WAY overpriced, it is real- I found the car for him in NC several years ago and everything was still intact. He found a nicer one, and just got downsized at LL Bean, so one of 'em's gotta go.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The 1st line of the cowl tag is ST7034267LAN249214 2nd line is TR992 (At far left) BDY (At far right) 3rd line 10A (At far left) - B (At far right) There is a dash before the "B" on the third line and the car is a Black Top Convertible.</div></div> 70= 1970 model year 3= Oldsmobile Division 42= Cutlass Supreme 67= GM-speak for convertible LAN= Lansing car assembly 249214= Fisher body job number (this doesn't always match the VIN) 992= green vinyl notchback bench seat interior 10A= built 1st week of October 1969 - = a special non-standard paint code, possibly from another GM division or carline B= black convertible top Toronado had an exclusive color called Ming Jade, code 46, and some of the other Divisions had their own medium metallic greens too. It'll be on the build sheet if you can find it.

ThermAC is the thermostatic air cleaner. The vacuum source for it is a manifold fitting behind the carb. Yup- it's been a hateful winter here in the Commonwealth. Below normal cold temps (global warming my arse), five ice/snow storms with heavy tree and powerline damage, and now the ground is saturated to the point a stiff breeze will push a tree over. Guvnah Warner's drought should be over, I think. I used to laugh about people who moved south for winter. Now I understand.

Entirely possible. Is the TCS stuff still on the top of the engine? The whole system may have been disabled as it wasn't held in very high regard in those days. But with the prices NOS or even decent working used TCS solenoids are going for... 1974 parts book shows p/n 6462514 as SWITCH, trans oil pressure spark control (on trans case), 1970-72 TH 350. It sold for $2.16. Look at it this way- at least you don't have to fight the 442 crowd for the TH 375/400 switch, so you may find one priced reasonable.

1975 shop manual wants 20 degrees BTDC @ 1100 rpm for a 350-4bbl Olds engine, with distributor vacuum advance hose disconnected and plugged, air cleaner removed and manifold vacuum fitting for ThermAC plugged. I always thought some of those early HEI basic timing settings were awfully high, but the spec shows a total advance of about 39 degrees at 4000 rpm which isn't excessive. Actually almost lazy, considering I used to time my points engines at 8-10 degrees base @ 650 rpm, then curve the distributor for 36-38 degrees total by 3200 rpm. Sometimes when I could get really good gas, I'd take it up to 14 or so. Good luck, and if you think 20 is too much, drop it to where you're comfortable and engine still runs well. The old trick of setting timing for highest idle vacuum still works.

I'd say you did ok. The last one of those tops I had done, back around 1994 or so, was over $600 then with a plastic window (which I used because the glass ones kept pulling loose from the back curtain). I like the 71-75 GM 'verts, but those damn scissor tops <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> will keep me from ever owning another one.

Beside the PNT code on the cowl tag, there should be two 2-digit numbers or a 2-digit number and a letter. The first set of numbers is the lower body color. The second set or letter is the upper body color, or vinyl or convertible top color. B codes to a Black convertible or vinyl top. If it's a medium metallic green, that sounds like code 45 Aspen Green. Code 48 was Sherwood Green which was dark. Occasionally you'll see XX or -- in the paint code. That codes as special order non-standard color paint.

I got one off the Snap-On truck a few years ago. As I recall it's not made by Snap-On. Works great though. Eastwood may also have it.

In the CSM- look at page 6C-16 fig. 6C-19, and at page 6C-19 TCS vacuum and electrical schematic and you'll see the TCS wiring harness routing. There should be one dark green wire running to the top bar of the "T" plug. A Turbo 350 transmission has no electric downshift, and the backup light switch is inside the car. The TCS switch is on the RH side of the T350 transmission case, forward of the dipstick tube. The JL transmission was used many years and you may have a later one as all 1970 cars had TCS. Look on the servo cover and there should be numbers stamped into it along with the tranny code. A 1970 transmission will have 70 stamped into the servo cover.