RoadsterRich

Hey Gang. First off, is the Charlotte AutoFair occuring this year? Their website lists the date, but ALL of the information on the AutoFair is 2002, including the registration forms. We are hoping to head up for it, likely won't be there until Saturday morning though, and no cars this year, maybe next year for them! I've been told the flea market is excellent, had hoped to be a vendor but the schedule did not permit it for this year. Will it be worth the 10 hour drive straight through Friday evening/night to get there? Who's going to be attending? How good is the flea market? Rich

Tractor Supply Company (TSC) carries 10W non-detergent oil. I bought some at the local store here in Florida. I know they have stores in Illinois, not sure where in relation to Chicago, a bit north of my expertise. They are on the web at http://www.mytscstore.com/. Rich

Try Apple Hydraulics (http://www.applehydraulics.com/ ). I have not used their service, however I hear they do good work. I'm sure others have comments and suggestions too. Apple Hydraulics was the company recommended for me to send mine to (Something I have yet to do). My 1930 Chrysler 77 also uses the Duodraulic lever shocks. Rich

Oops... to stand semi-corrected, I did find one post that discussed the proper paint for 1930 frames, however, it was a reference to a vendor selling it rather than a discussion of what was or was not correct. Rich

Peter, Thanks for the hint. Believe it or not I actually do take the time to do a search before posting questions. The post you reference, and others I found dealt primarily with color. I did not find any pertaining to the level of gloss one would expect as original on a 1930 Vintage engine block. Perhaps I missed some, I just rechecked and did not find them. I always try a few search terms however with so many possibilities it is easy to miss what one is searching for. Rich

Thanks for the great replies. With regards to the engine block, this is what I expected, but wanted confirmation of. I have the good fortune on my frame so far that I have found no rust pitting, mind you I am just now getting to the front 1/3 of the frame, working my way from back to front cleaning and prepping it. My only issues so far are some unsightly welds I need to address. Rich

Well this is most disheartening, I am nearing time to purchase 6 tires for the Roadster (1930 Chrysler 77). I had a less than stellar experience with Coker in March of this year, I had hoped it was a fluke. It would seem it was part of a disheartening trend... On that note where will I find 6.00/18 tires? I had thought Universal, however if they are one and the same, is there any point to this? (As far as I know I'll have to get 6.50/18 as I have yet to see 6.00/18 listed). The owners manual lists them as 'formerly 30" x 6"'. I would prefer blackwalls as all of the factory photographs I have, show blackwalls, not whitewalls. Also I'll be needing a set of 5 tires for the Jaguar, these are 6.50/6.70 x 16 white walls. Any and all comments and suggestions are appreciated... A bit dismayed... Rich

And while on the topic of how glossy is appropriate... Since I am nearing time to paint the steel frame, just how glossy would the black paint on the frame have been originally? Rich

I have to agree with Dan, Jay is a great resource. He has found several obscure parts for me. Now if he could just find the rest of my wish list! Rich

Al, I have yet to find a good source. The stainless reproductions I acquired were very disappointing. Apparently the stainless shrinks quite a bit during the process, using an existing part to make the mold results in a part that is noticably smaller (and in the case of critically sized parts this is a serious issue). I need cowl light brackets (the style that mount to the windshield stanchions), the control levers that go in the steering wheel, door handles, trunk handles, interior door handles, door latches... well the list goes on and you get the idea. If I find any good reproduction sources I will let you know. I've been pondering making my own using brass, but since I have never done this before the quality will likely not be up to my own standards, let alone others. Rich

Dave, Send me an email, or post a way to contact you. I have two manifolds I believe that are correct (one came off a 1930 Chrysler 70 V series engine, the other off a 1930 Chrysler W series engine, both have the same part number on them), condition is not perfect, but they are useable. I may know where a better one is, if it has not sold yet. I will check on that. Rich PS: You can email me at : Rich.aaca -at- 1930Chrsyler77 -dot- com Of course replace the -at- with @ and the -dot- with . and no spaces...

Well I haven't had time to work on the Roadster most of the summer due to family obligations. I'm finally squeaking in a little work. I'm prepping the frame and engine for paint (frame still has those pesky welds I have to dress up, hope to get to them next week). I bought some enamel in the proper color for my engine, the supplier shipped it with Medium Reducer (Dupont 441-21) and with "Super Wet Look" acrylic enamel catylst (Transtar Classic 8105). For a 1930 Engine block just how much of a gloss should be used? I'm thinking that super wet look will be extremely glossy and not likely to represent the original paint even remotely accurately. What would the proper catylst be? The color is a grey-green (actually Ford Meadow Green), and it is a Dupont paint. I was dismayed to get the super-wet look catalyst from a source that is suppose to be savy about antique cars. In any event I'm looking for input on what catalyst I should be looking for. Thanks, Rich

Curt, My expertise is very limited, however I do have a comment regarding 'factory' photographs. My experience deals with 1930 Chrysler photographs, I suspect it is typical of all manufacturers. I purchased a number of 'factory' photographs from Chrysler directly for aid in restoring my 1930 Chrysler 77. To my amazement even within the factory photographs there were many discrepencies. With Chrysler it seems that their 'factory photographs' included 'experimental' and 'pre-production' vehicles. Many of which differ noticeably from the period photographs I have located of dealer and personal vehicles. To further complicate matters I've found references to production changes, and special accomodations which further complicate the issues of originality. I guess I may be obsessive/compulsive. I've been picking up every photograph, ad, article, manual or book that even mentions the Chrysler 77, trying to do the best I can at being original. As to what is or isn't original, do your own footwork. Check factory photographs, manuals, references, books, experts and anything else you can get your hands on. Compile the information, weigh the credibility of the sources, and go with what is most credible. Remember, if you are going for originality, looking at a restored car for answers may be misleading. Even the experts are not always as informed as they appear to be. I've found this true on more than one ocassion with my Chrysler 77. The credibility of a claim does not lay with the emphatic nature of a statement but rather with the credibility of the information upon which it is based. Rich

Don, What an absoultely beautiful car. We have a Mk IX Jaguar Saloon also named Mr. Magoo, funny how namesakes come about... (Oh yes and I can't forget to mention the Mk IX Saloon named Jezebel and the Chrysler 77 named Miles, they get very touchy if I mention one without the others you know how cars are). Rich

Just an FYI 440 area code is Ohio, 885 Prefix is used in the Parma area of Ohio. Rich

Chrysler used Delco parts during the late 20's and early 30's I know. My 1930 Chrysler has Delco-Remy distributor, coil, generator, starter and shocks (Well Delco-Lovejoy on the shocks)! Rich

Check with Jay Astheimer, you can reach him at: email: astheime@ptd.net phone: (610)863-6955 He specializes in pre-1930 Chryslers. He has been a huge help in my locating parts. Rich

While I am not particularly impressed with the interface, it is fair to say that few of the more successful sites started with ideal interfaces. The sites evolved based on usage, feedback, observations and new technologies. I will follow the auction site and see how it goes, I have a Chrysler and any venue that may provide new sources for parts is welcome. We'll see if it can carve a niche out of the massive eBay market, in the meantime, it is yet another potential source for those frustrating parts... Rich

Up for sale to the best reasonable offer is one pair of 1939/1940 Cadillac Spare Tire covers, these are New Old Stock, never used. They include the chrome trim (which has never been attached to the covers, as they have only been primed). These may fit other years/models, I only know they are for a 1939/1940 Cadillac. The covers are currently located in Fort Pierce, Florida 34946. If they are not picked up in person the buyer will assume responsibility for reasonable shipping costs. Pictures will be available upon request. Rich

Up for sale to the best reasonable offer is one Ford Flathead V8 Intake Manifold. It appears to be made from an aluminum alloy. The only markings I noted were a Circle with a "2" in it on the top, and the date "9-18-35" cast inside the manifold (on the bottom). The manifold is currently located in Fort Pierce, Florida 34946. If it is not picked up in person the buyer will assume responsibility for reasonable shipping costs. Pictures will be available upon request. Rich

Up for sale to the best reasonable offer is one pair of Ford Flathead V8 heads, casting number 59A. These were used in Flathead Fords from 1939 to 1948. The heads are currently located in Fort Pierce, Florida 34946. If they are not picked up in person the buyer will assume responsibility for reasonable shipping costs. Pictures will be available upon request. Rich

I was hoping to get by Charlotte this trip, but not looking promising due to the family obligations (a couple or three hours I can free up, a 4 hour drive time + visit time is tough). I have an online acquaintance with a couple of Jaguars in Charlotte, plus a couple of radio collector buddies. I'll be back in North Carolina again this fall, assuming all goes well. Next time I'll have the Suburban with me, and lots more free time. So I can 'shop' while I'm visiting too... I have way too many collections of 'things'... but hey at least I don't smoke, drink or do drugs Rich

Need to change soon to immeninently... looks like I am in Durham now <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Lord I miss hills and cool evenings... Rich

Diz, I think that must be Newtons 3rd law... action and reaction are equal and opposite. If you throw physics at folks... they run at an equal rate in the opposite direction? Rich Congrats on a great (theoretical) way to measure the spring tensions there Hal!

Hey gang, haven't gotten much accomplished on the Roadster or the Mk IX lately. The roadster frame had some welded on 'additions' that I am slowly getting cut off. Ran in to a patch that I have to decide how to handle, so taking it slowly. The Mk IX has a new seal on the intermediate speed hold solenoid at the transmission and I have the new speedo cable to install. Should have a leak free transmission (well okay, a less leaky) shortly. The question of the day is, do we have any DF'ers in the Durham NC area? I'll be up that way soon and thought it might be nice to annoy... er meet some of ya'll if anyone lives up that way. Rich PS: Okay so it isn't a technical question, I threw in some technical stuff, honest <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />