RoadsterRich

Here are a couple of pictures of the 'leads to something else...' Someone welded a couple of bolts to some angle iron and welded it to the frame for some reason. I'm thinking maybe someone tried to mount a more 'modern' style shock on the car? Also, what can't be seen in these picturs is that the shock mounting point is broken off of the spring shackle plate (or whatever you call the piece of steel that goes under the springs that the U bolts which hold the rear axle to the spring mount through (under the spring, opposite side from the axle). The first side looks like I can likely do a little judicious use of the high speed cutter and weaken the welds enough to get out the foreign object, then grind the left over weld down smooth again... here's the shot of it: The other side is going to be a bit more tricky. They not only welded the angle iron to the frame, they also welded a plate to the frame (intruding on where the delco duodynamic shocks mount). The plate may prove more of a challenge as I can't easily get the high speed cutter in there. I might could use the micro die grinder with some dremel cutting bits on it to get in there. I'm open to suggestions... here's the shot of it: Lastly, and by far the absolute most important to me... This is Dad... doing what he does best these days... supervising, inspecting, and offering intuition, ideas, expertise, and years of knowledge to the project... funny how roles reverse, he does more of the "Go-Fer-in" these days and I do more of the work, some 37 years ago it was the other way around... Thanks Dad, for all you have done, do, and will do for me... Rich

Frank... Good point. Unfortunately I've already visited there... the rubber is non-existant, and the price for replacement ain't cheap. I'm looking in to molding my own. But the rubber is only a part of that issue. One of the spring mounts is broken and sortof welded together. I have two replacment ones provided by friendly folks with leftover bits. I will have to grind the rivets out and remove and replace the mount (rear mount on the right front spring). I plan to use grade 8 bolts to reinstall it, may not be original but safer than a modern rivet hack attempt I would think. We'll see how the idea of molding my own works out with the rubber. I also have a number of broken bolts that have to be drilled out for the lower cover on the mounts. Quite a challenge there too. As the title says... One thing leads to another. Fortunately there is little to no rust anywhere in the car. There is one patch to the frame just forward of the right front wheel from an old accident, and there is some sheetmetal repair in the right rear wheel well. That is about it for rust issues that I have found so far. Thanks again for the good insight on places to look, the little things can easily be overlooked, particularly when one is new to a given model, year or car... or just new in general. Rich

Ken, With the plating kits, mileage will vary. I haven't used one in years, but long ago I bought one of the inexpensive kits and it did reasonably well. The better the preperation the better the quality of the plating. As I recall the plating thickness varies some, that is to say it is not necessarilly even across a single part. Also the quality of the electrodes and solution effect the quality of the plating. I'm sure others know more about it, for me, I'd say I got acceptable quality for driving and local showing, but I don't think it would have stood up to National level competitions, it was not 'show quality'. I'm no expert, and I suspect if someone knew more than I, they might have gotten better results. For a daily driver the quality would have been far more than adequate, for a show car, it likely would not meet the stringent inspection of some. Rich

Well I haven't had the time I'd like to put in to working on Miles, but he is coming along slowly. Preparing to replace the brake lines lead to cleaning the frame. I had no idea what a tedious and time consuming job that was going to be. Perhaps doing it manually with wire brushes and cups mounted in the drill wasn't such a smart idea. I've done between 1/4 and 1/3 of the entire frame, stripped clean and ready for paint. I have alot left to do, and I've put in a good 15 to 20 hours to get where I'm at. Slowly but surely all of the layers of crud and paint are coming off the frame. I've run in to yet another snag that is going to require some work. In the past someone welded some mounts for something (maybe modern shocks?) to the frame in the rear near where the original shocks mounted. These are welded to the frame and will have to be cut out so I can get the original shocks back in place. I've become fairly handy with the high speed cutter (the one I have uses 3" cutting discs, and is pneumatic). I am just starting to learn the art of grinding. There are tons of left over weld bits I need to grind down, so I will have plenty of practice before Miles is done. I'll follow up later today (hopefully) with some pictures of progress, and of some of the snags I've run in to and need to address. All of this just to run some brake lines <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Rich

Hey Bob, want a 'free' vacation to Florida? (Well okay, so it entails some body work education and help <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> ) The Chrysler doesn't need much, probably a day or two of easy work... the Jaguar on the other hand needs a great deal of TLC... well if you ever do need a change of pace from those big trucks just let me know... I'm eager to learn! Rich

I removed the gas tank from Miles (the 1930 Chrysler 77 Roadster) today. He really did not want to give it up. Two of the bolts required the precise alignment of 1) a 7/16" box end wrench, 2) a 7/16" socket wrench, 3) PB Blaster, 4) tongue sticking out of face (and being bitten of course), 5) finger bashing wrench wailing, and 6) generally uncomfortable position on ones back. Eventually the two did give way. The third bolt was not so forgiving. Being of semi-sound mind, and extremly resolute, I poked, proded, banged and practiced the art of explicatives for a good bit of time. Finally I had enough, out came the high speed cutter and zip zip, that nut just fell in two. Voila, the gas tank was free... This gas tank has been repaired... repeatedly in the past, though not cosmetically perfect, the repairs seem to have held up to the test of time. Unfortunately it has one heck of a dent in it... which can be seen here: Also, someone in the past has either soldered or welded the drain plug hole over. The gas tank has long been empty, it was dry when I got it, and appeared to have been for some time before that. Looks like I'll need to find someone (or learn how myself) who can remove the dent for me and repair the tank in general. It has been bodgered up quite a bit, the filler neck is not original (I have an original from a dead tank on it's way I think!), the outlet fitting has been welded on, not sure if it is original or not, but it does appear functional. There are at least a 1/2 dozen repairs to the tank already. Any gas tank suggestions, do's, dont's... successess... horror stories??? Thanks, Rich

Worked on Miles today, jacked up the rear end, put him on jackstands, removed the wheels and set to removing the rear drum/hubs. Right rear came off with little effort, everything was relatively clean inside, save a little seepage from the seals. I'll call Bernbaums tomorrow and see if they have them in stock and how much damage that will do (I seem to recall they were pricey). The return spring on the brakes was a little stubborn, luckily I have the magical brake spring tool, which helps... some. The wheel cylinder came right out, and the brake shoes slid right out once the retaining clips were removed. Here is what it looked like after removing everything, bear in mind that I have not even wiped the backing plate down with a rag... Unfortunately the left rear hub decided not to be so polite. I have an original hub remover, sadly it won't help, seems in the past someone has beaten the threads for the dust cap with a hammer and peened them all over. The puller threaded on there to grasp the hub. Looks like its time to beg or borrow a universal wheel hub puller. I priced them out they run between $125 and $175 assuming I can even find one locally, so hopefully I can borrow one until I can find a used one at a substantially lower cost. Luckily I have 3 spare rear hub/drums. I'll take the best two of the five to put back on. Is the brake caliper paint they sell any good? At $8/can it should be, I can get 1200degree exhaust enamel for $4 a can these days. Want to paint the drums before putting them back on, they look like they were originally black, so I figured I'd paint them that, though one set I have was painted body color. Easier to get black paint in high-temp, so mine will likely be black. In the meantime the differential is prepped for painting, and I have cleaned about a third of the frame in prep for painting it. I also removed the fuel tank, but that story will follow in the next post... Rich

Wow, you caught it on the primer? Count your blessings <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Some of us can't see em till they shine <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Rich PS: I'd rather rebuild the drivetrain repeatedly than do body work, but alas a perfect drivetrain, while beautiful to behold, does not a show car, or a daily driver make...

Upgrade schmupgrade... A hinge pivot bolt for a Model A costs under $5, having one made for the Chrysler costs around $30... do the math <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> I called a couple of Model A places, but they don't know the threadpitch size, just part numbers. I did not try Snyders, will give them a ring. Since I am not putting it in a Model A, and contrary to popular opinions... [color:"red"] <span style="font-weight: bold">Size Does Matter!</span> It was a long shot on the size anyway, as I need a 9/16" x 18tpi bolt, with about 1/4" wide shoulder 5/8" in diameter. My 'cheap' fallback position is to use a 9/16x18 bolt with a brass bushing for the shoulder. Hrrm... or was that 5/8 and 3/4? Argh... time to double check.. Rich

Can someone tell me the thread pitch and size of the Rumble Seat Pivot Bolt (shoulder bolt) used on Model A's? Also the diameter and width of the shoulder if possible? Thanks, Rich

Thanks... I think. I was originally told it came from a mid 30's Jaguar, however, it didn't match the spoke counts for a Jaguar (or so I was told by a Jaguar 'Expert'.) Trying to identify parts certainly entails a great deal of frustration as well as the odd excitement when one does figure something out. I'm still tracking... any more suggestions from anyone would be appreciated. Rich

Can someone tell me the thread pitch and size of the Rumble Seat Pivot Bolt (shoulder bolt) used on Model A's? Also the diameter and width of the shoulder if possible? Thanks, Rich

This is a 450x18 wheel, with a Dunlop tire on it. There are 48 spokes, 32 in the back, 16 in the front. It has a splined hub. Trying to identify it. Any help is appreciated. Rich

Ken, What are the dimensions of your fan? Might a two blade cast aluminum fan from a 1928-31 Model A Ford be adaptable? These can be had for under $50, new, balanced and ready to go. I'm not a Model A Ford person, but if the dimensions were acceptable it would be a much less costly endeavor and should be safe too. Check out "Mike's "A" FORD-ABLE Parts", online. Part number A8600A, cost is $46.20 plus shipping. http://www.mikes-afordable.com/miva/merc...egory_Code=1061 Just a thought... I've found it is amazing how many "bits" from a Model A Ford are identical or reasonably close to 1930 Chrysler parts. Particularly the smaller bits, what would cost me $35 for a Chrysler part often costs under $10 for a Model A, and when held next to the broken original is indistinguishable. Of course most parts don't interchange, but if the part fits... and the price is right... well you get the drift... who's gonna know <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Rich PS: All ya'll purist close your eyes... some parts just aren't readily or practically available and we have to make due!

Well did not get time to work on Miles (the Roadster), but did spend a few hours yesterday working on Jezebel (The Jaguar Mk IX Saloon). After a bit of finger smashing and grumbling I managed to replace a couple of brake lines and flush the front brake lines. Unfortunately the rear wheels appear to have been put on with an impact wrench, I cranked up 100ft lbs on the torque wrench and the lug nuts wouldn't budge. I put some PB-Blaster on them and left them soaking. I removed the flexible brake line from the rear union and flushed the lines and bled them at least that far back. Being impatient (often a costly trait), I fired her up and dropped her in reverse, we moved about 8', I put the brakes on and she stopped! Put her in gear, drove her forward, put on the brakes and she stopped! Okay the brakes are spongy, the rear cylinders need bled, but she stops. The rebuild of the master cylinder was successful, the new brake line solved the clogged line issue... so far so good! Now to get Miles' brakes working so he can do the same. So much to do... but so exciting at the same time... okay and sometimes frustrating too... but still all in all... exciting. Rich

Rick, Information about 'universal' fuel sending units was discussed in a recent thread. You can read the information here: Gas Tank Sending Unit If you don't find the answers you need there, post more specific questions and I'm sure someone will likely have the answer. Hope this helps, Rich

Promised pictures from yesterday, looks like todays schedule precludes any Roadster work, perhaps I can sneak some in Sunday between Easter events... Work progresses ever so slowly... Rich

Cleaned out more dirt tonight... boy was it packed in to some interesting places. Also finished up the heavy cleaning on the rear end, down to some hand work and it should be good to paint. Removed the master cylinder today, started cleaning the area it mounts to as well. I also used the high-speed cutter and cut the weld that was holding the driver side door jamb cover in place. I removed the covers on both sides, and found as I expected the rear door posts will need to be replaced. Pictures will follow tomorrow... Rich

Very cool, congratulations on the repair. Wish I knew enough to be of help, sure am glad we have lots of wise and sharing minded folks around. I know the Church must feel you are a blessing... Rich

Yet again weather and work conspired against my getting much accomplished on the Roadster. I removed the remaining brake lines in preperation for installing the new stainless lines I bought. The run from the front to the rear was quite a challenge to remove. I had cleaned, pressure cleaned, and cleaned again the frame. I had however missed at least 1/2 of Venezuela as there it was stuck in every inaccessible nook and cranny that there was. With the aid of some putty knives and some high pressure air from a pressure nozzle I removed what amounted to about 1/4" of dirt on the floor covering an area about 4' x 8'. Now at this point I thought I had done a very good job of cleaning the debris out of the frame. I had cleaned it by hand, as well as used a 1750psi pressure cleaner to clean it. Apparently I missed quite a bit. Dirt came flying out of places I had not even thought to look. This all came about as the brake line would not budge once I released the two clamps holding it in place. I worked on it for the better part of an hour, cleaning, blowing, scraping, breaking up dirt that had long since turned almost as hard as the frame. Looks like Miles will be rolling out into the sunshine shortly for another round of high pressure cleaning, this time I'll add a little degreaser and start prepping for a better paint job this round. I received the new flexible line, wheel cylinders, wheel bearings, and brake return springs today. With the set back on the frame it will likely be next week before I get to the brakes. First order of business is getting that frame totally cleaned and freshly painted. I also finished removing the foam and faux leather from around the seat area of the body. Found more wood damage, though I expected it so it was no surprise. Also found more welded in angle iron to support the wood. Apparently the wood problems go way back in time. I'll be working on my grinding skills removing some of those welds. A few setbacks, but... when it's done it's going to be awfully nice <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Rich PS: No pictures today, maybe I'll take a picture of the dirt pile tomorrow if I think of it.

Great Job Ed! I sent the link to the Peace River Region website in an email yesterday as well. Hopefully you'll have a new member before too long. Ever get over Brevard County way? We'll be hosting the Winter 2004 National Meet in March of 2004, c'mon over and enjoy our hospitality! Rich

Today I did not get to spend as much time on the car as I would have liked. I did start a few tasks I had been meaning to get to. I started removing the faux leather from around the body where the seats go. Someone in the past had put a faux leather over foam there. Here is what it looked like before, during and after removal work today. Which brings up several questions regarding just how this was originally trimmed. Anyone have any suggestions? I hope to go take a look at a similar car in the near future and see how it was done. It is purported to be an 'all original' car. I also worked on cleaning up the differential, a lot of work and I made a small dent in the cleaning... Still much to do. Hopefully the brake parts will be in soon and I can start work on the brakes as well. I picked up stainless steel lines and will start bending and flaring once the rest of the brake parts are in. In the meantime I am going to go full tilt on cleaning and painting the differential and the remainder of the frame. This should hopefully have me ready to run brake lines when all arrives. Well not much time for work today just an hour or so snuck in, but at least it is something... Rich PS: Thank god Colleen puts up with me and the cars <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

The 77 in the model for my car is it's top speed. I however doubt I will endeavor to test that speed. I'm thinking 55 would be extremely fast in it once it is on the road. Guess we'll see when I get there! I suppose we could leave at the same time and call each other on cell phones every so often to see when we needed to start looking out for one another... Hrrm... how about meeting in Tennessee, I need to get up to Nashville on some family matters and over to visit my Mom's family in Knoxville... well thats a trip for another day. I would love to plan an 'unofficial' tour some day and just pick people up along the route as we went, think it could be a lot of fun. Ah well, guess I'm just dreaming until the car is at least roadworthy eh? Then again, it is dreams that keep us going... Rich

Ed, Don't forget the Peace River Region AACA right there in Punta Gorda. Florida does seem to be a very prolific place of antique car enthusiasts. Rich

Thanks for the information. They don't have the patterns for my car, nor are my brake lines appropriate to make patterns from. They do have the pieces parts though. I have found that the 'armor' is marketed under several names: Gravel Guard Spring wrap Armorguard As well as possibly others. I do not know if this was original on my car or not, but given the exposure of the lines it certainly seems like a good safety feature. Rich