RoadsterRich

Thanks for the quick response. The parts in the estate were all european, hence my confusion over Ford stuff... didn't think about Ford UK. Given that the other parts were VW, Saab, Fiat and Morris, the SAAB sounds like a good bet for where they came from. Now to come up with a number that would be a fair price for them, so they can try to move them on. They aren't expecting to get rich selling the stuff, I'm just trying to help them make sure they don't get taken either, a couple of local dealers offered to haul it all off if they would pay him $500... there are numerous complete engines, transmissions and boxes of brand new Fiat part as well. Rich

Trying to help someone finish off an estate. They have two Fomoco V4 engines that were stored along with a number of other engines (Saab 3 cylinder, Morris 4 Cylinder, Fiat 4 Cylinder, etc). What cars (in what years) would have used these, and do they have any value beyond scrap if they are complete? Thanks! Rich

Plans... well get the '30 Chrysler 77 Road Worthy... Get the interior and body work done on the Mk IX Jaguar Saloon, get the '74 Fiat Spider road worthy... start work on the other Mk IX Jaguar Saloon, Start work on the '82 Fiat Spider, take care of some body work on the '89 Suburban, take care of some body work on the '91 Olds Cutluss Supreme International, rebuild the engine in the '81 Mustang LX as well as address some rust issues on it, get started on the body work on the '84 Volvo 244DL... replace the main seal on the '89 Toyota Camry... attack the rust along the drip rails on the '92 Dodge Grand Caravan... Address the 'Knock' in my mothers '94 Saturn (with all of 15,000 miles on it)... finish reworking the garage... hopefully find a place in Tennessee to start work on a new garage (and eventually a house to go with the garage)... and the list goes on... and on... Hey Hal, Bring your car on down to Melbourne, we'd love to have you! You'll find me in the Youth/Junior Program tent (well tent assuming I manage to get one) most of the day. The Chrysler 77 Will be there no matter what state it is in, was hoping to have the Mk IX Saloon there, but I just don't see how I can get the interior and the body work done in time. The '74 Fiat spider's engine rebuild should be done by then, but not sure it will be roadworthy or not. Time will tell... Rich

A follow up on the 74 Fiat 124 Spider compression issue... Here is what was found when the head was pulled: Yes that is the valve, and yes that lighter circle in the center is where the stem should be. Note that the carbon deposits where the stem use to be, this obviously ran for awhile with this off. This is the head: Note the stem sans the upper portion of the valve in the lower left of the picture... Interestingly there was just a scratch to the piston, the cylinder walls are excellent, no scoring, etc. So now I either rebuild the head or locate a donor 1800 head in good shape... Compression readings were flaky because the timing belt was skipping around it was definitely worn out on close inspection. This is a prime example of why we should follow routine maintenance schedules... $14 part... full head rebuild (and that is getting off light...) Rich PS: The mirafori forums are awesome! Between the Jag, Fiat and AACA forums there are some fantastic and very helpful folks around.

The engine does not run. It had serious electrical issues when I acquired it, which have mostly been sorted out (the hazards/blinkers still don't work, hazard switch/connector is the suspected culprit). I now have spark, and a fuel supply, but the engine doesn't seem to want to fire. The PO had led me to believe the compression was good, either I misunderstood or he was misinformed. The not at least sputtering or spitting when cranked is what led me to check compression. I also have not checked Cam timing, the distributor timing appears to be visually close to correct. It is possible that the timing belt has skipped a cog or otherwise is out of adjustment. I'm hoping to find information on timing marks on these DOHC's. It is a cute little engine, and relatively light, shouldn't be too bad if I have to pull it, though of course I'd rather not. Rich PS: Chris, thanks for the link! Nice to know others suffer similar afflicitons

Frank, Cylinders 1 and 2 have 125psi and around 120psi respectively. The engine is supposedly (or so I am told) not an interference engine, but on the other hand I'm also told that if the cams are out of timing too far the pistons can hit the valves on the 1756CC (1800) engine, which this is, I thought this was the definition of an interference engine There is slight compression but very little in both 3 and 4. If I put my finger over the spark plug hole it will push it off when turned over as well as attempt to suck it in, though not with significant force. I have a good compression tester, it just wasn't where the cars are. One of the many downsides to having two homes. I'll snag the good tester this weekend and check just for the heck of it before I start pulling bits off. I have always liked challenges, for some folks the satisfaction is owning the perfect restoration car, for others the pleasure is in the 'doing'. While I want my cars to look nice in the end, it isn't about winning awards or trophies, it is about the process of getting there... hearing the engine run for the first time... moving (and stopping!) for the first time under it's own power... that first pristine coat of paint glistening still damp from the spray gun... the words of encouragement from the folks that see the potential... and eventually the outcome. Ack... well you get the point... Rich

The '74 fiat spider has nearly zero compression in cylinders 3 & 4 (less then 30lbs, its a cheap compression gauge and it doesn't read lower than 30). I read the same compression in 3 & 4 whether there is a spark plug in the other cylinder(s) or not. This is a 1756cc Dual Over Head Cam (DOHC) engine. In general I would expect this to be from either a catastrophic piston failure or a stuck valve. In looking at the engine design in the service manual it looks like if the valve stuck fully open it would smash the piston. Does anyone have any experience with these engines? I've been told that the most common problem with them is bent valves from issues with the valve guides. Before I go tearing everything apart I was looking for wisdom or guidance from those that might know... Thanks... Rich... Yeah I know... I have several too many projects

Dave, The radiator is readily available, in stock a few places, unfortunately timing is everything. Radiators are hard to come by late on Saturday, the local Discount/Advance Auto Parts couldn't have one until Tuesday and no one else was open late Saturday. I was slated to leave town late Sunday (obviously that plan got changed) and not return until Christmas Eve. I was trying to get the radiator to last long enough to get the daughter to and from work 3 times (about a 20 mile round trip) over the course of the coming week so I could replace the radiator Friday or Saturday. I ended up postponing leaving until late Monday morning so I could 1) make sure I still had a face, 2) face wouldn't scare clients, 3) Toyota (daughter drives it) would be at the shop to get a new radiator. Bottom line... I was trying to save the $100 or so someone else would charge to install it. Needless to say it went to the local shop that I trust and have done business with for some time. $206 and some burns later there is a new radiator in the car (Mechanic didn't put antifreeze in, left that for me to save me a few bucks, good guy all the way around). Final result of this story... that honeycomb radiator I repaired for the 30 Chrysler 77 Roadster is going out first of the year for a new core. Lesson learned... I hope... though it was solder repaired, it's old and I just feel better about having a new core in it. Funny how our perspective can change when our life and or limbs are put in jeopardy... suddenly that core doesn't seem so expensive. Roadster Rich the Red Faced car collector...

First off those red cheeks are both blush and burn... Yep I'm still working on cars... Some notes about epoxy, plastic radiator tanks, Plastic Weld & Common Sense... 1) Epoxy does not adhere to all forms of plastic... 2) The pressure in an '89 Toyota Camry will blow an epoxy patch off the car. 3) Plastic Weld works wonderfully and bonds well to the radiator tank 4) After test driving the car for about 30 minutes, and carefully opening the hood to check the 'patch', appearances can be deceiving. The plastic-weld patch is stronger than the tank... The results of the notes... After a good test drive with engine up to normal operating temperatures a check of the radiator showed that the patch was holding pressure just fine. Colleen came out and we discussed that it looked like the patch would last the week until I could get a radiator installed. As Colleen turned to walk around to shut the car off the other side of the tank split spewing its contents directly on to my face. I was about 3' away from the radiator, however it split it did not explode, which created a high pressure stream of very hot water. Obviously I'm not blind, I'm typing this. No I did not go to the Emergency Room (though in retrospect it might have been wiser). Yes I did receive burns to my face, but they range from scalds to first degree burns, I'll live, but it gives new meaning to Ouch, and "It hurts to smile". I wear glasses so the eyes were protected, the lips, dimples and nose were not so lucky... fortunately the moustache took some of the 'heat' quite literally. Moral of this story... Don't patch... replace... and when standing in front of a suspect radiator, always keep something between you and it... that towel you have in your hand to block the steam if it is leaking, won't help when you drop your guard thinking eveything is okay. I was lucky... my face hurts, and is red... and will hurt for some time... however... I was lucky... That was how my weekend of 'car repairs' ended... Earlier the same day I came to the realization that in fact cylinders 3 & 4 have zero compression on the '74 Fiat Spider. Looks like I'll be pulling the head on it one way or another, whether it is valves or the pistons, the heads going to have to come off. I'll start by pulling the cam covers (as recommended by some Fiat folks) and see what I can see... the rest will go from there. Rich PS: Oh yeah, and keep your mouth shut when the hoods up on the car... hot radiator fluid tastes lousy and burned tongues are NOT fun...

Hey I work in Melbourne, you must use either Space Coast or Farmac. I'd guess Space Coast Plating, as they do a great deal of the collector stuff. Farmac does a bit too, but doesn't seem as widely known. Now on to my works in progress... Got more parts for the 1930 Chrysler 77 Roadster... but not work done on it in the last few weeks. The 1959 Jaguar Mk IX Saloon has decided to be tempermental on starting in the cold... need to check the auxilliary start carburetor circuit. The second Jaguar Mk IX Saloon, we started in on some of it's body work... The 1974 Fiat turns over now and has good compression and spark, but won't fire, timing appears to be about right. I'll toss new wires and a new condensor on it, plenty of fuel in there, the spark looked a tad 'weak' on visual inspection, perhaps thats it. Put a new coil on, and plugs but didn't replace the condensor (yeah yeah I know I know...) The 1981 Mustang needs an overhaul, new rings and pistons are in order... sigh... The 1982 Fiat hasn't been touched... The 1984 Volvo has no high beams, and drains the battery if I put the fuse in that supplies the courtesy lights etc... the AC still isn't working... but the engine is running great now, and the brakes are working great. The 1984 Jaguar XJ6 Cold Start circuit isn't working right, need to finish tracking it to see if it is a wiring or component issue. I do however have it running now, and with some coaxing it will start on its own. The 1989 Toyota just got new light fixtures today... AC needs work and there seems to be a new oil leak, and the radiator tank cracked (made of plastic <shudder>) epoxy to the rescue this morning! The 1989 GMC Suburban is still eating serpentine belts, no one has found the misalignment or pulley issue yet... and the last belt took out the ac compressor clutch coil... The 1991 Olds Cutlass Supreme International's paint is literally falling off, and it is the factory paint. It is just peeling off, leaving the primer behind. I tackled the few rust spots today and will be working on prepping it for a paint job. Whew... oh yeah and Dad wants me to look at his 1994 Dodge Grand Caravan, he's got a few issues with it... and the neighbor across the street wants me to look at the motor on his boat... and then there is the brake job he needs help with... good lord... my hobby list is longer than my work list for tasks to compelete! Rich

Dave, The world is coming to an end. I went to turn the heat on last night and remembered I don't have heat. Fortunately I do have a fireplace, an unusual site in Florida. Then came the realization I don't have wood for the fire place and I live in a subdivision, not like I can go out and chop up some firewood real quick. Ah well, don't think the neighbors are going to miss their privacy fence (I hope!)... though that stain they put on it had a funny odor, fortunately I have a heatilator... Rich

Dave, Better break out the Long Johns that there rain storm is just ahead of a cold front. Expected to be in the upper thirties tonight! And the weekend is set for high's around 60. My Azelea's are covered with buds, guess I'll have to cover them up tonight, same with the roses. I'm going to have to dig out my hunting socks and hand warmers so I can go out on the carport and work on the cars this weekend Rich

Unfortunately my back decided it wanted extended horizontal time. Little has been done physically on the Roadster. I have however managed to continue my progress forward. I have undoubtedly moved further in to the 'crazy' stage... from all of the lack of activity. With the help of the DFers I have a couple of possible sources for the Top Bow's, as well as information on do-it-yourself. I'm weighting my options on this now and will decide how to progress after the first of the year. I've located three sources for running boards (one thanks to Tim Wolfe, another in Australia, and another in North Carolina). Tim Wolfe's source I believe is basically as original. The Australian ones I have been told are close, but not quite original as they use a square bend on the edge rather than the original rounded edge. The North Carolina company makes them very different in design from the original, though from the top they look original. They use a heavier metal with reinforcements, rather than the bent/channellized original style. I am going to talk to Tim Wolfe a bit more before I decide on which I will go with. Another first of the year decision. Thanks to Stan Blinco in California, I have sketches of the interior door handle and linkage mechanism. Also sketches of the bits that go in the windshield posts I need, as well as sketches of the wood in the car, including the doors. I picked up a Delco Generator I believe has the correct pulley on it, so hopefully yet another item off the list. I found through Ron Merker a source to rebuild my water pump with modern bearings/seals but still look original. I'm looking in to this. I managed to get pictures of the step pad bracket for the lower fender mount step pad bracket. I should be able to get this bent and drilled. I picked up an original radiator cap (actually two, there are two different styles, I believe mine should be the one with the rib down the center). One is in excellent shape, the other is in fair to good condition. I picked up a modern reproduction sending unit for the fuel tank, made by a company using the "Atwater Kent" name. It doesn't look exactly like the original but looks like it should work. Which ultimately is what matters. The appearance is extremely close to the original appearance. <span style="font-weight: bold"> [color:\\"red\\"] In the still needed department: </span> I need pictures or details of the linkages (or the linkage) between the arms of the two windshield wipers. I have the motor, but no arms, nor the bushing for the passenger arm, nor the linkage between the two (from pictures it looks like it is just a heavy piano wire bent between the two arms?) I still need the manifold heat control cable & knob assembly, or at least a knob for it. I still need the brackets for the side lights (cowl lights, but they don't mount on the cowl they mount on the windshield posts). I still need a right hand door latch assembly for a 1930 Chrysler open car. State of the car: Frame is nearing ready to paint, just needs some minor grinding down to smooth in a few spots, and a good heavy final going over with the wire brushes before priming. The engine is running well, however I may have a carburetor float issue or a fuel pressure issue. I seem to get quite a bit of gasoline in the intake manifold after the engine stops. This drips out the 'drip tube' in the manifold, however the quantity concerns me. Probably a bit less than an ounce, but still a good bit of gas to dump. I have the doors off the car and am making mechanical drawings of the wood I need to replace inside the skins. I have examined virtually all of the wood in the car and unfortunately I have good solid idea of what has to be replaced, more than I had hoped, but depending on the cowl wood once I get a bit more removed so I can see it, maybe not as bad as I feared. I found a local source for marine plywood for the rumble seat floor area (found it odd that these were originally plywood). Also for the kiln dried ash as well. I've started revamping the garage so I can get the wood working shop set up. It doesn't look like it is going to be as complicated as I first thought to make the parts. Sadly there is a chance I will have to pull the body despite my best efforts to avoid it. Some of the wood bits are screwed together with the screws coming in from the outside, with the body sheet metal covering the heads. Most of the wood is deteriorated enough this isn't a problem, however I expect the way things have gone, to find one ore more areas I will have to either cut out or remove the body to replace. Well as I lay here staring up at the ceiling, and happy to have a laptop... I guess I've rambled enough. Sure will be glad when my back decides it is ready for me to start working on the cars (amongst other things)... Rich PS: Oh yeah I found a source for a pair of original (though dirty) exhaust brackets too.

Dave, You're welcome to come over to the east coast. Yesterday it was a balmy 67 degrees, with a windchill of 65 over here. Today it's already 73 at 11AM, no wind chill factor at all. Winds are 12mph (which is fairly typical over here, always a nice ocean breeze). Humidity is even low, it's only 64%. If my back weren't pretzelized I'd be out in the garage playing hooky from work and getting that frame finished up. Rich

Wayne, it helps if you put your glasses on Rich

Well I want a 20 car garage with lifts... but... I'll settle for some car covers, or a replacement 2 car portable carport, this time not from harbor "rusts out in less than a year" freight. Rich

Dave, I'd love to be working. Unfortunately I'm too busy spending most of my time laying flat on my back, courtesy of an old back injury... Rich PS: Chewin the fat don't count as hard work

Dangit Wayne, now I'm hungry and I know how ya'll are, ya'll have em eaten (don't matter how much she made) fore I can get there. I'm way down in Florida, mostly you are north and a little east of me. I use to live in Norton VA back in the 60's, and in Fairfax Va back in the 70's. I miss seasons, but don't miss commuting in the snow/slush/ice. I was just up in Eastern Tennessee and plan on looking in to the area between Chattanooga and Knoxville for a retirement place. Rich

Wayne, I only pick on people I like, and I only do it to their face (er monitors? Keyboards? well you know whut I mean!). Hey did someone mention black-eyed peas? Yanno they is downright deelicious with some good ole down home fatback Rich PS: I still say Virginia is WAY up north

Was that wrapped or warped?

Dear Dave... You must not have kids or grand-kids... if you did, you'd know they are not human... particulary during the teen and early 20's years and the GrandKid has way too much energy to be human... Of course the real reason for that faux pas was the back medicaction, but hey... Rich

We have 4 cars, 2 people... 2 dogs... 2 kids... 1 grand kid... and enough parts to make quite a few interesting franken-vehicles if they were assembled together, as they are different marquees. Rich

Ron, That could be why I couldn't find it... I try to stay out of stores in general (well other than hardware and automotive of course ) Rich

Anyone know where in the southeast (specifically Florida) one can purchase Lestoil? I've heard it mentioned many times, but haven't found it in the stores. Or is this a mail order item? Rich

Speaking of Garage Envy... a friend of mine has an 11 car garage. To get around zoning issues limiting a house to a 6 car garage he put bay windows in the extra 5 bays, and finished them off like rooms, except the interior walls are moveable. Since we now own 10 vehicles and an enclosed trailer, an 11 car garage might be too small already... sigh. And to think I was thinking 6 car garage originally... Rich