RoadsterRich

Bob's wheels can be viewed at:<P><A HREF=http://www.1930chrysler77.com/pics/pc020014.jpg>Bob's Wheel Picture 1</A><BR><BR><BR><A HREF=http://www.1930chrysler77.com/pics/pc020015.jpg>Bob's Wheel Picture 2</A><BR><P>Rich<BR><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com>http://www.1930Chrysler77.com</A><BR>Member AACA, WPCC

I always assumed the grease fittings were for the spring bushings, not for the springs themselves. Of course I have also learned that my 'common sense' (or is that lack of?) and reality tend to conflict on a regular basis. Basically my thought was that it allowed the end of the springs to move freely at the attachment points, as the springs flex I would assume (there the word is again) that the ends would move a bit, not the same as the springs 'sliding' over each other, rather I would think removing stress from the mounting point. Ah well, I sure would appreciate the real explanation now that I have shared my fanciful assumptions <P>Rich<BR><A HREF="http://www.1930Chrysler77.com" TARGET=_blank>www.1930Chrysler77.com</A><BR>Member AACA, WPCC

Back again, this time I have a question regarding the manifold heat control valve on my Chrysler 77. It appears the valve cylinder inside the exhaust manifold (the piece that rotates to control the exhaust flow around the intake manifold) is completely frozen. I have tried penetrating oil, carburetor cleaner, mild acid wash and heat thus far with no avail. Note that I did not heat it much, for fear of increasing the small crack that is already there. It looks like the valve assembly expanded and cracked the exhaust manifold. Is there any way short of 'cutting' the assembly out to extract it? I am doing my best to keep the car original, so I really would prefer not to destroy the part in the process, if nothing else so it can server as a pattern for a new one. On the positive side, it is frozen in the closed position, so the air does not flow around the intake manifold. In any event any suggestions are greatly appreciated. I looked around for replacement manifolds, the only ones I located were as bad or worse than mine. Once again thanks to all for this great resource!<P>Rich<BR><A HREF=www.1930Chrysler77.com>www.1930Chrysler77.com</A><BR><FONT SIZE=-1>Member AACA, WPCC</FONT>

Wow, thanks for the Plymouth site! What a fantastic resource, quite a bit of the information is useful, beyond the engine colors. From what I have seen and read so far they seem consistent, the only real difference is I have seen the waterpump in both black and silver. Not certain which is appropriate. Hopefully I'll find out soon. I think I will take a look at that voltage regulator article on the site as well, I have to rebuild the generator, seems like a good time to consider it. Thanks again for the site, I really appreciate it, as I am sure many others do.<P>Rich<BR><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com>www.1930Chrysler77.com</A>

Ted, thanks for the heads up. I joined AACA and WPC shortly after aquiring the car (July of this year - 2001). I didn't find a message board for WPC, AACA seemed a friendly place to start. There seems to be a wonderful wealth of information and helpful people here.<P>Rich<BR><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com>www.1930Chrysler77.com</A>

Being new to this I have enough technical questions I can likely use my own message board. I thought I would start off with the hopefully simple. I am rebuilding the engine of my 1930 Chrysler 77, I am looking for information on the original engine colors. As I peeled through the layers on the block I found (most recent to oldest) Green, Black, Red, Black, though not sure any of it is original. The water pump appears to be green, blue, black. The transmission is red. The distributor is grey over black, the fan is pretty much just rust. The head is green over red (it is a silverdome, not the redhead). Any and all help is greatly appreciated, as well as any hints or pointers.<P>Thanks,<P>Rich<BR><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com>www.1930Chrysler77.com</A>