RoadsterRich

I am fairly new to the obessession... er hobby, I bought my first car in July of last year (2000). I started posting here in September or October I believe. You won't find a friendlier, or more informative bunch than here. The wealth of information contained here is tremendous, and without exception the folks devote their own personal time to helping others out. I just hope eventually I'll know enough to give more than the odd piece of trivia or technical resource back.<P>Don't be afraid to ask questions, I've asked some real winners myself. My latest, and likely to haunt me the longest at least in my own brain had to do with some apparently random letters at the top of the dash tag on my 1930 Chrysler 77 Roadster. Seems they basically meant Registered Trademark. Here I was thinking they were some sort of code or car specific information. Ah well, I learn something new every day here. Sometimes its something obviously simple, other times it is an in depth answer to a complex and perplexing problem. Whatever it is, it is usualy met with good humour, high tolerance, lots of patience, and fantastic information.<P>Rich

Well sheesh, that was simple enough, though I am not sure I ever would have guessed it to be registered trademark. Sure looked like gibberish or code to me. Guess I'll go hang my head in shame for a few...<P>Rich

Can anyone tell me what (if anything) the letters at the top of the dash tag for a 30's vintage Chrysler Corporation mean? (The tag on the dash under the hood.) In particular the letters are as follows:<P>M. DE F. M.IND. RGTRDA.<P>I tried to simulate the spacing there between letters, though it may not be exactly accurate, but close. The condition of the tag is poor, so the periods may actually be pits in the tag. Is there a book or a source for information like this?<P>Thanks,<P>Rich

Ron,<P>Interesting list of 'phases'. I started out with antique radio collecting, and stuck solely with it until I moved in to the antique car last year. I have sold or traded off most of my overly large collection of radios (I still have some 200+ Radios, 100+ pieces of vintage test equipment, 5000+ manuals/books and 100,000+ tubes, guess the obsessive enthusiasm has been around awhile). I still get a thrill out of restoring a radio, however; there is just something uniquely different with the cars. I have a minor in Anthropology (specifically Archaeology), perhaps there is some tie in the passion for old things. Then again I love antiques, I really need a much bigger house. I did not realize just how large the 1930 Chrysler 77 was until it was parked next to a 96 Dodge Grand Caravan, it made the Caravan look small, though physically the Roadster is about the same length and height, even the weight is similar I think. Well it is lunch hour, the work phones have died down so I am off to work on the car for an hour or so.<P>Rich

Hey gang, randjflo60, earlier in this thread; said they were told it was expected to mail right after the 1st of the year. That would be just about now, if they stuck to that schedule I'd expect they should start arriving next week. Of course that is assuming they were able to stick with the schedule. Guess we'll find out next week...<P>Rich

Pending my getting the proper Delco 659B or 659E distributor, I am contemplating substituting another distributor. I have a couple of Delco 632D distributors also used on 1930 Vintage Chrysler L6 engines. I have a proper shaft for my car that will fit this distributor to adapt it to my car. The question is, how much trouble am I going to get in to given that there are likely differences in the advance curves? Also are there other pitfalls to doing this as a temporary solution? Any and all input, suggestions or comments are greatly appreciated.<P>Thanks,<P>Rich

I've been working on the car, and as I've been removing things it appears that the oldest, and apparently original colors on the body were black and a shade of blue (presumably Cobalt blue). This color scheme is listed for the 1930 Chrysler 77's, but not for the Roadster body style. Would it be possible this is in fact the original color scheme even though it isn't listed as such? Would it matter that the car was a Canadian rather than US car? If I repainted the apparently original scheme even though it is not listed, what sort of show point reductions would be incurred?<P>Thanks,

I am curious, is it just me or is there a general sense of infectious excitement when someone first really gets in to restoring cars? Or better yet is it a permanent excitment? I cannot recall being this enthused about anything in a very long time. By AACA standards I guess I'm a kid anyways being 40 (for a few more weeks). I have been many places and done many things in my life. Some were very exciting, others are better lost in distant memories. Few things compare to the excitement everytime I get a step closer to hearing the ole car run for the first time in over 30 years. Sure hope I'm not alone, and glad you folks tolerate us yungin's so well. <P>25+ years ago I worked on cars with my father, well actually mostly I gofered, except for the wiring. I did all the wiring, Dad's color blind. Now all these years later, Dad drops in and sits and watches, and does the ocassional gofering. Now I know what all those muffled sounds were under his breath Well, hope to hear from others, I sure would like to know I'm not alone in the excitement. I hope others have some great memories of times gone by as well.<P>Thanks to all for this great place to share, and learn...<P>Rich<BR><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com>http://www.1930Chrysler77.com</A><BR>Member AACA, WPCC

Bill,<P>Those were the words I wanted to hear! Thanks for the quick response. Unless I hear any reason not to, looks like I'll be driving up early next week and dropping off a Stromberg DX-3 for them to have at. They sure do seem nice on the phone, and very responsive to questions as well. I am just learning though, it is best to ask here before one jumps, to save those costly 'oops' issues. Soon I am going to have to start selling off a few of my 'oops' items to make room and cash for the proper items. I didn't think it possible, but every step closer to hearing the engine run just gets me that much more excited!<P>Rich<BR><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com>http://www.1930Chrysler77.com</A><BR>Member AACA, WPCC

Has anyone used the services of Daytona Parts Company out of New Smyrna Beach, Florida for carburetor rebuilds? They are semi-local to me, which makes them attractive from that perspective. Pricewise they are the same as everyone else I have called. Thanks for any information,<P>Rich<BR><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com>http://www.1930Chrysler77.com</A><BR>Member AACA, WPCC

Does anyone have any information on an AutoLite IAT1035 distributor? I am trying to find out what it's original application was. It came in my 1930 Chrysler 77 when I bought it, but is definately not original. The original would have been a Delco 659B or 659E. Is this an appropriate workable replacement? Can I use it until I obtain an original? What distributor cap and rotor would it use? Where would I get them? I've been in touch with a couple of the distributor places which deal with antique/vintage AutoLite, they did not have a listing for this one. Any information is appreciated. Here are the only markings on the distributor:<BR><IMG SRC=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com/Pics/Distributor1-s.jpg><P>There is a larger view from the top at:<P><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com/Pics/Distributor2.jpg TARGET=_blank>http://www.1930Chrysler77.com/Pics/Distributor2.jpg</A><BR>Thanks,<P>Rich<BR><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com>http://www.1930Chrysler77.com</A><BR>Member AACA, WPCC

I've had the same concerns as Mike. I'm no expert, quite the opposite to say the least. I am trying to learn as I go. Sometimes I come up with good ideas, sometimes with hair brain ones. Fortunately I've met some great folks via the DF's to help me either see the error of my way's, or to praise me for my ocassional lack of stupidity. So here goes my latest round...<P>Would rigging up a pressure test be of any value in checking the original copper lines? If so, what sort of pressure levels would one expect to see out of a mechanical hydraulic system. Wouldn't the pressure tend to be either a slow steady increase to represent normal braking, or a sudden sharp increase to maximum pressure to simulate rapid pedal to the floor emergency breaking? Rigging the compressor up to provide pressure to feed hydraulic fluid wouldn't be extremely difficult, but ultimately is it of any practical application at all?<P>Getting off track a little, but still in the vein of braking safety, I recall back in the late 70's, when I was playing with high performance toys while in college; a replacement junction block for the brake lines. Somehow it kept the pressure up in the other lines if one or more failed. While this wouldn't be original on a 20/30's vintage car, would something like this be worthwhile if one planned on driving their car a great deal? What sort of points deductions does one get for a safety feature at a show?<P>Rich<BR><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com>http://www.1930Chrysler77.com</A><BR>Member AACA, WPCC

Thanks for the heads up, I just spoke with Arthur on the phone. Seems he is just as nice as everyone let on. Indeed the fuel pump that is on my car is not the proper one. Yet again a case of my lack of knowledge costing me. I had picked up a replacement pump that matched the casting number. Sigh, it was the new fuel pump that prompted me to believe it was the wrong pump, seems the rocker arms are different. Mine was welded, I assumed it was a repair, however it seems it was a modification. <P>If I have learned one thing so far to impart to others when just starting out, it is most certainly: check with any and all available resources as to what is and what is not original on ones car. Just because a part is on a car has no bearing on the originality of that part. Unfortunately I am slow and it has taken more than one inappropriate part and a bit of cash to learn this lesson. Then again I'll probably make the same mistake a few more times, at least, like I said I'm slow <P>Rich<BR><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com>http://www.1930Chrysler77.com</A><BR>Member AACA, WPCC

Sal,<P>Thanks! I sent him an email, figured given the holidays it was a more friendly approach. We'll see what he has to say. I'm making lots of notes, and checking them twice, course mine are who sells or repairs what, not much naughty and nice in there <P>Rich<BR><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com>http://www.1930Chrysler77.com</A><BR>Member AACA, WPCC

Merry Christmas to you as well. May everyone have a wonderful and joyous holiday...<P>Rich<BR><A HREF=http:://www.1930Chrysler77.com>http://www.1930Chrysler77.com</A><BR>Member AACA, WPCC

I have recieved various opinions on the 'originality' of the fuel pump on my 1930 Chrysler 77. The casting number on it is 587. I have a period reference that lists two fuel pumps as having been used on the car, a Type C No. 855472, and a Type D No. 855480. Is there a correlation between casting numbers and the Type C/Type D Numbering? Does anyone have an AC Reference that can cross reference these. Any and all information would be greatly appreciated. I would like to find out what was originally on it, rather than what may work as a replacement. Of course since the engine hasn't been run yet, I don't even know if the 587 is appropriate as a replacement.<P>Hope those who have one enjoy their holiday season...<P>Rich<BR><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com>http://www.1930Chrysler77.com</A><BR>Member AACA, WPCC

Howard say it ain't so! You cheated on the beloved KK?<P>I myself went to KK this morning to pick up a dozen donuts for breakfast. Sadly there will be no fresh donuts for Christmas at our local KK. Bearing this in mind I picked up 2 dozen, to cover the shortage come Christmas morn. Seems family is more important than donuts, what has happened to all of our values? Imagine that, family coming first...<P>I hope the remainder of the year is a joyous time... and that the rather annoying KK values be remembered by all...<P>Seasonally appropriate greetings!<P>Rich<BR><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com>http://www.1930Chrysler77.com</A><BR>Member AACA, WPCC<P>PS: Howard, have you repented yet?

I posted electrolock data up on my website, for those that are looking for it. I hope it may help out. This information was provided by Kisselman (Thanks Greg!). It is a PDF file, so you'll need acrobat reader to display it. If you have additional electrolock information please let me know, I am happy to post any and all information I can to help others out.<P><A HREF=http://www.1930chrysler77.com/documents/electrolock2.pdf>http://www.1930chrysler77.com/documents/electrolock2.pdf</A><P>Rich<BR><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com>http://www.1930Chrysler77.com</A><BR>Member AACA, WPCC

Hey now I grew up on KK donuts, its not an addiction, its an obsession, somewhat like owning and restoring an old car I can remember back in the 60's going to KK's and eating donuts while watching the cars go by down on Kingston Pike... ah well, likely I'm missing the inside joke, but needless to say I love my KK's, and the memories are fond as well...<P>Where's a smiley with a halo when you need one?<P>Well on that note, pardon the off the wall intrusion... and now back to our regularly scheduled programming...<P>Rich<P><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com>http://www.1930Chrysler77.com</A><BR>Member AACA, WPCC, confirmed KK Lover

I was just browsing the owners manual for my 1930 Chrysler 77; it refers to the springs as "dry leaf type". Is it possible there are both "dry" and "lubricated" style leaf springs? Perhaps some are meant to specifically not be lubricated while others are meant to be? The wording caught my attention...<P>Rich<BR><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com>http://www.1930Chrysler77.com</A><BR>Member AACA, WPCC

I seem to recall a small heater for early cars that was powered by I think kerosene? It was maybe 18" long, if you looked at it from the end it was oval shaped, maybe 5" at its thickest and 10" at its widest. Had some sort of cloth like material covering it. Worked on the same basic principle as the little lighter fluid hand warmers I think, though not certain. Wouldn't this work and retain authenticity? Of course I guess ventilation would be an issue. Well that was from memory, think my father had one in the old Auburn. There is probably a name for them and lots of folks here who know more about them than I, just a thought from a naive newbie...<P>Rich<BR><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com>http://www.1930Chrysler77.com</A><BR>Member AACA, WPCC

Well I am new to all of this so my opinion is not based on anything other than personal prejudice. With that said, I have strong opinions on 'originality'. I understand personal preference and choices. To me, painting a car a color other than it originally came, be it a factory color or not, is a reversible 'crime' (some colors being more of a crime than others mind you ). To replace the data plate, actually modifies the documentation of the history of the car, and makes it near impossible for a future restorer some generations down the road to put the car back to its historically correct condition, this to me is a 'Sin.' While one can debate the merits of many things, I personally think it absolutely wrong for any 'preservation' minded organization to promote altering the 'documentation' on a vehicle, which in my personal opinion, replacing the data tag does.<P>Well there are my two cents worth on this, brand me a purist, a fanatic, or just a fringe lunatic, but my opinions will not waiver.<P>Rich<BR><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrsyler77.com>http://www.1930Chrysler77.com</A><BR>Member AACA, WWPC

On the subject of replacing spokes and costs, on my 1930 Chrysler 77, several of the wheels have numerous spokes missing. When I contacted the one place I was aware that rebuilds them (not local to me), the price was $800/wheel, making my 6 wheels cost around $4800 + shipping. That service I believe replaced all spokes, trued the wheels, and did all necessary stripping, repairing, cleaning, to make them as new. About the only thing they didn't do was paint them, they came back primed and ready to paint.<P>They informed me that it was not a good idea to merely replace missing spokes. Modern spokes are made of different materials and this would cause issues with the wheels that could result in catastrophic failures. Being no expert on this I'd love to hear other opinions. I would like to get the wheels cleaned up, respoked, and looking like new again some day.<P>Thanks all for the read, and the great help this forum provides...<P>Rich<BR><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com>http://www.1930Chrysler77.com</A><BR>Member AACA, WPCC

Based on Notes I have made from various sources while pulling information for my 1930 Chrysler 77 (and please note that I can't vouch for the original accuracy this is paraphrased from a service manuals as best I can, I personally am no expert):<P>The ElectroLock 5B has the armored cable that runs from the distributor to the key lock in the car. In 1929 Delco Remy had acquired the rights (may have actually acquired them in 1928, not certain on that) and was manufacturing the ElectroLocks themselves. The switching mechanism is different than the earlier pre Delco units. The earlier units utilized a push-pull mechanism rather than the turning movement Delco introduced in 1929. There is a special wrench for taking apart the ferrule end of the Electrolock cable, where it attaches to the special ElectroLock stud on the distributor. The big anti-theft push on these was that the points were grounded when it was locked, making it difficult to bypass the switch with a jumper wire. One would have to remove the distributor cap and hot wire the points to the coil, as well as bypass the connection for the electric gauges, etc on cars so equipped (cars with the 'B' series).<P>With regards to what is required in this case, the B series ElectroLocks should have 3 terminals, one for the battery, one for the gas gauge and coil, and one for the coil only. I am not certain if other variants such as the 'B', and '9B' parts can be directly interchanged or not. If needed I do have some documentation on these regarding disassembly, cleaning and repair, but it does pertain to the 9A/9B series as used on 1929 Chevrolets and Whippets (perhaps others too, that is the limit of my knowledge), rather than the 5B, which I believe is similar in nature.<P>PS: While on this topic if anyone reading happens to have a Delco-Remy 659-B or 659-E distributor, with the ElectroLock 5B they would be interested in parting with, please let me know, my car would be eternally thankful, and I would appreciate it too!<P><BR>Rich<BR><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com>http://www.1930Chrysler77.com</A><BR>Member AACA, WPCC

In the vein of hand cranking, just how hard is hard when it comes to cranking? With the plugs out how much effort should be required to turn the engine over? How about with the plugs in? Also where would one find a crank that will work with a 1930 Chrysler 77?<P>Hope I am not too far off topic. Being new to all this I have many questions, I try to refrain from asking them all at once, working on pacing them out...<P>Thanks,<P>Rich<BR><A HREF=http://www.1930Chrysler77.com>http://www.1930Chrysler77.com</A><BR>Member AACA, WPCC