RoadsterRich

Tim, Does this have the external band brakes on the wheels or the internal bands? (Internal are like modern drums, the external have brake bands which compress on the outside of the drum rather than which expand to press against the internal drums). I have some limited period service information, if I have what you need I'll be happy to scan and post it. Rich

I have to say... my best find ever... Was and Is... Colleen! (Followed closely by Miles and Jezebel... and yes you too Mr. Magoo) Rich

Bruce, Not a problem. Your answer was much more thorough than mine, and greatly appreciated by at least me, and others I'm sure. You are quite right, most local shows are judged by 'uniquely colloquial' standards. Our local shows are judged by the participants that bring cars. Others I've been to have been peoples choice, almost but not quite AACA Judging, rigged, or my personal favorite... everyone got an award for participating, and the best of show was picked by a 14 year old girl who the event was a fundraiser for <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> I missed the 'local' part of the AACA show in the original post. Rich

I'm no expert... maybe HPOF? (Historic Preservation of Features), or perhaps the Driver Participation Class? Unless it is darn near perfect from what I have seen they generally don't do well in the classes judged for perfection. Just my thoughts... probably not worth the time to read them... but hey, it's a free forum... well sorta kinda... Rich

Stutz, Just so happens... I have an original installation manual for a Transitone (pre-Philco), and an original Chrysler sales flyer for the Transitone, and a photocopy of an original ad for one. Unfortunately for you, it is the original radio for My Chrysler as well and I am not willing to part with the originals. I don't have the radio though, been looking for one for two years. If EVER you see another one please keep me in mind. I'll scan the manual and the sales brochure and post the link, probably will be first of the week before I can get that done though. If you would like a real photocopy let me know and we'll arrange something. Rich

Hey John, Why don't you swim that car of yours down here to Florida for a visit? March next year would be great, you could show it at the National's here in town, and enjoy some good company too... and bring Howard with you too... tell him we have a Krispy Kreme donut shop about 10 minutes from the host hotel <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Rich

Howard I meant that what was onsale in the retail outlets was not the same as what was on sale via the online or printed catalogs. I would assume from retail outlet to retail outlet they would be the same items on sale at the same prices. Though ours does sometimes have a "Managers Special" bin, they may all have the same "Mangers Special" bin though Rich

Come to think of it I don't recall ever seeing anything substantially sized made of isinglass... though my experience is limited. I recall it being used as lenses for lamps, in speakers/earphones, but never anything more than maybe 6x9 give or take in size. Bear in mind it may well have been, just in my lifetime I can't think of anything larger off the top of my head. All that I have seen is brittle and to some degree fragile, or at least subject to cracks/braking similar to glass. May have to go check with the expert tonight... Oh Dad... <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Rich

I think he meant this link... http://www.gm.com/company/corp_info/history/ Rich

The final follow up (I think!) on this may be... 1951 Ford Meadow Green, Dupont 55134. I have confirmed from two reputable sources that this color is the closest the 'experts' have found for matching the original engine enamel used by Chrysler. This color is a bit more grey and less 'silverish' than I anticipated. The color does however resemble some bits of color found on a couple of 1930 Imperial and several 1930 model 77 engines I have been tinkering with. I was also informed that the term 'silver' in 1930 was used to denote a particular shade of grey, more towards the white side, rather than what we think of as silver today with its metallic look. Now to figure out just how 'glossy' the paint would have originally been. The examples I have look like satin, but alas they are 70 years old and have seen much dirt, grime, oil, and fuel, as well as lord knows what else. I've seen the cars with the infinitly deep wet look on the block, I find it hard to believe that was the original finish, but then again my imagination isn't always on target. Rich

Actually, those are the exact ones that are $19.95 a pair, on sale at our local Harbor Freight retail store. The local retail stores carry much of the same products, but their sales and the online/catlog sales don't match up. What is on sale one place is not necessarily on sale at the other, go figure. I looked at them today, they seem to be well made, was waiting for input from here before I bought them. I went up and stocked up on safety goggles and glasses, high speed cutter blades, wire brush wheels and other fun stuff. I really do need to make sure I only go in there once or twice a month at most, I just can't afford to go there more often <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Guess I will head back up and pick up two sets of those jack stands, may pick up 4 sets. That way I'll have enough to get 2 cars (or trucks!) off the floor at the same time, and with my original set, I could even do 3 if I needed to. Rich

As a follow up to the original post I have located a Dupont color code that is reported to be the proper color. It does closely resemble the color I have found on parts from several engines I have in my possession. Ironically it is known as "51 Ford Meadow Green" and is Dupont 55134. This color is a greyish green. I talked to one of the 'older' folks at the local auto paint supplier and they gave me some insight in to the definition of 'Silver' in 1930. His description of it was that in 1930 they did not typically use metallics, particularly not on engines, the term "Silver" applied to a typically higher gloss grey shade. The grey was more towards white as he remembered it when termed as silver. This would to some extent match with the 'Silver-Green' being a grey-green color. I have no expert proof that the 51 Meadow Green is the proper color. I do know that it closely resembles what I believe to be original paint found under, in and around parts taken from 1930 Chrysler 77's. To this end I believe that it is as close an approximation as we can currently get. If anyone has any evidence to support or dispute this I would love to hear it. Even if it is just folklore any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Rich

Here is a link to a PDF file containing the reference materials I could quickly find on the Philco-Studebaker AC-206 radio. These pages come from Rider's Perpetual Trouble Shooters Manual, Volume 6, November 1935. The information includes a schematic, parts list, limited installation instructions and a few other bits. I hope it is useful. It is provided courtesy of my website for my other 'obsession' (antique radios): http://www.nostalgiaair.org/aaca/studebakerac206.pdf . I would suggest you right click the link and do a 'Save As', to get a copy on your local hard drive. I provide [color:"red"]<span style="font-weight: bold">FREE</span> technical information for tens of thousands of antique radios. All scanned and online for the downloading at Nostalgia Air Rich PS: I am still looking through the stacks (and stacks... and stacks...) of Philco tech bulletins to see if I have an original service, installation or owners manual I can copy for you.

Speaking of Jack Stands, I was planning on picking up a second set. My first set was my fathers, and I know we have been using them since the early 60's. They are in good condition, always stored in the garage/basement/attic out of moistures way. They have some slight surface rust in the paint, but 95% of the paint is still there. I found these at Harbor Freight... they have them on sale in the local store for roughly $19/set... are these any good, and are they safe? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38847 My old ones are the three legged style with the tube that slides in a tube and a pin that holds them up. They have always served me well. Since we are on the issue of safety I thought I would ask before buying, it isn't the money, it's the safety I am concerned with (well okay money too, no sense spending it if they aren't fit to use!) Rich

This brings up an important question for me... Just how shiny/glossy/wet looking should the engine be? In my case it is a 1930 Chrysler 6. I doubt it had the wet look originally, but what finish would be appropriate? Also, I had been advised against using the POR products on the block by several folks who specialize in painting cars and blocks. They did not give a particular reason why not to, just said they had 'poor results', which is at best a subjective thing. They seemed to favor a more standard sealer/primer followed by the acrylic enamel. I have also been told that some folks use the Urethane paints. I'm open to learning and would like to hear more opinions and more discussion on why or why not to do it certain ways, and what method would give me the most authentic look, with the most durable finish. Thanks, Rich

Mika, I was going to post this link for you, but I see from their message board you have already been there. Maybe others will enjoy it too, so I'll post it anyway: http://www.checkercabs.org/ Rich

I know what you mean about Ford. When I bought Miles I was a bit naive. I was thinking "It's a Chrysler, parts won't be a problem". At times I wish it was a Ford as far as finding (and pricing) parts go, but all in all I'm vastly happier that it is a Chrysler, and a relatively scarce one at that. Interestingly there are roughly 30 I know of in existence (though a couple may be the same car with different owners over time.) Of those thirty there are three other ones within two hours of me, two of which are for sale. There also are two in England, three in New Zealand and one in Australia that I know of, and twenty two in the States. Unfortunately most of the ones around have been 'restored', which means you can't count on them for being original. People have certainly taken liberties. Chrysler Historical had all of about 10 photos of the car in their collection, unfortunately as it turns out, most were pre-production prototype photo's and also differ slightly from the production run units. Not a great deal of details in the photos either. Rich

Well my Dad says to tell you "Ya'll are welcome anytime." Miles is named after him as they were born darn near at the same time, give or take a month. I must admit that overall I get the most (and generally the best) responses here on the AACA Tech Forum. Rich

Ouch JT! and you caught me WITHOUT my safety glasses today. Thanks for the pointed reminder... I had planned to head out and get some, however thinking twice now, I'll make sure I head out and get some BEFORE I do more work on Miles. Particularly since I am using wire brushes, grinding wheels, and high speed cutting disks. Bits fly everywhere. I knew better... and I know better, but sometimes a reality check is in order when our know better gets put on the back burner over our desire to work on things. Thanks for sharing... my eyes are bad enough already, I really should know better. Rich PS: I did at least use the jack stands, I really am paranoid about the car falling, been there done that and escaped without harm... funny thing about cinder blocks, they WILL crush under weight.

Might want to check with the DB Forum there are some experts around, perhaps one will be familiar with "Mr. Woodies" siblings, or at least a contemporary cousin or two. Just a thought... I do have them on ocassion despite popular opinion (hey I didn't say they were good ones <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> ) Rich PS: Miles (my 1930 Chrysler 77 Roadster) wants to know when Mr. Woody is driving to Florida for a visit. He says he's lonely and tired of talking to all the kids on the block.

Van Dykes... awesome place! URL is: http://www.vandykes.com/ I would use the website to request a catalog, they have some great stuff. Their 800 numbers is: 1-800-558-1234 Hope that helps, Rich PS: Isinglass is great for repairing antique headphones and speakers for circa 1920-1930 radio's, as well as the odd antique coleman style (pre-coleman) lantern one runs across as well. The quality of some of their other items varies, but they do have a myriad of things to oogle.

Frank, Thanks for the good word! I just started tackling those welds today. Cut as much as I can with the big 3" high speed cutter. Next I will start tackling the welds with the dremel. I need to get new goggles, and more cutting wheels. Time for another trip to Harbor Freight! (Okay so any excuse is a good excuse to buy tools!) Most of Dad's involvement is arm chair based, but he comes out and inspects my work, does the odd gofer'in, and sometimes when it's not too hot or humid will sit out and chat (when I'm not using the pneumatic tools, we can't hear over the compressor). I ordered the Windshield frame yesterday for the Roadster. I have a bit of work to do getting the bits off the remains of the old frame as well, yet again the masked welder has struck. I ground off the weld in this case and found that someone had drilled (very off center) and tapped for a smaller 'stud', and I imagine it kept coming loose as there was a good 1/4" of weld around where the stud goes in. Looks like I'll be doing more drilling and thread cleanup work. At this rate I'll be good at it by the time I'm done with Miles. The Mark IX doesn't need much of that so it won't come in handy until car number three or four <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> As a side note, the main reason I bought a car to work on in the first place is that my father and I had talked, day dreamed and pondered it for over 35 years, since I was a kid. It was something I wanted to share with my father and a few years back he had a massive heart attack (not his first, but almost his last). He required significant open heart surgery for multiple bypasses, valve replacements and repairs and a pace maker, all in one go, pretty much they repaired or replaced everything they could. With all of that his heart at best functions about 40% capacity. I decided it was a good time to spend more time with him, and do more things with him. He may not have the stamina, endurance, or the tolerance for crawling around he use to, but he still knows more than I ever will, and makes one heck of a great guy to talk to. Ya'll should all come down to the 2004 National in Melbourne this coming March and meet him <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Okay so I'm biased, he may not be the best at everything, but he will always be my Dad... and in my eyes he'll always know everything and be able to do anything... And the final note... Miles is the same age as my father, give or take a month or two at most, and is named in part after my father who's middle name is "Miles." So that is the basis of where the Roadster got it's name... Rich PS: How come you guys didn't warn me to wear long sleeves when using the high speed cutter! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

I am at the office and do not have my references with me, I may have information on the Philco Radio. I will check them and post a response if I do either at lunch or this evening my time (Eastern US). I do not know if I have this specific radio; I have listings, and some instruction manuals for early Philco radios. I'll let you know. I do know that in 1930 Philco did not make car radios, they came about in 1931 when Philco purchased 'Transitone'. In 1930 the car radio's were marketed under the name Transitone, but not by Philco. Most likely the radio is a mid 1930's Philco. It would not have been uncommon for a car to have one added, but it would have not been installed in a 1930 as it was delivered either from the factory or installed by the dealer. Hope this helps, Rich

I was thinking more along the lines of the small portable 'personal players' like the old walkman style design, would easily fit in the glove box, and could provide moderate but not loud sound. They are small enough to fit in backpacks or purses, but too big for pockets. Amperage will not be a problem, voltage is. The unit at 6 volts will only draw the amperage it needs which would likely be a couple of hundred milliamps since they run off of AA batteries. As to the two 6 volt batteries, there are a couple of ways to go. You can hook the two batteries in series (hook one side to ground and the other side to your radio). If you are using the car battery as one of the two batteries you hook one side of the battery to the 'hot' lead to the radio and the other side to the radio to provide the 'boost' from 6 volts to 12 volts. Most modern car radios are negative ground 12 volt radios. If your car is positive ground and the radio is negative ground you will have to isolate the radio from the cars ground if you are using the car's battery as one of the two batteries supplying power. For positive ground systems with negative ground 12 volt radio using car battery as one of the batteries: 1) Insulate the radio chassis from ALL contact with the cars metal (ground). 2) Hook your radio's 'positive' lead to the cars ground. 3) Hook your 'booster' batteries positive terminal to your negative supply cable from the accessory (or ammeter, fuse it!) 4) Hook your 'booster' batteries negative terminal to your radio's ground (typically the chassis). For negative ground systems with positive ground 12 volt radio using car battery as one of the batteries: 1) Mount your radio so the chassis has a good ground. 2) Hook your 'booster' batteries negative terminal to your accessory (ammeter on older cars, don't forget to fuse it) connection. 3) Hook your 'booster' batteries positive terminal to the positive 'booster' battery terminal. For one or two external battery (or 1 twelve volt external battery) and negative ground 12 volt radio: 1) (for two 6 volt batteries only) hook negative of one battery to positive of other battery. 2) Hook radio up, making sure chassis has good ground 3) Hook unused negative battery terminal to ground 4) Hook unused positive battery terminal to radio 'power' lead (fuse it!) For one or two external battery (or 1 twelve volt external battery) and positive ground 12 volt radio: 1) (for two 6 volt batteries only) hook negative of one battery to positive of other battery. 2) Hook radio up, making sure chassis has good ground 3) Hook unused positive battery terminal to ground 4) Hook unused negative battery terminal to radio 'power' lead. (fuse it!) Okay, I think I covered the permutations... someone double check me before he wires it in! Rich PS: If you need it I can draw pictures... poor pictures, but pictures none the less, I'm not remotely artistic.

For $65 can't you get a portable CD with AM/FM stereo these days? Most of them run off 6 volts and you don't have to modify your car beyond adding a jack for the power cord and hiding some of those small modern speakers, you could even used powered speakers for more oomph if you look around many of them run at 6 Volts as well. This would let you keep your 6Volts, get modern convenience, and you wouldn't have to putz with a converter... Okay so shoot me... I always look at things the 'Odd' way... makes me unique (or is that Odd?) And of course it assumes you are not planning to move your car down the road by blaring your sub woofers, rather than pushing down the gas pedal as god intended us to do... <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Well just a thought... Rich